Lynn Robinson. Showman Scenic

Hi All

Well she has had her first outing and as a debutante carried herself well.

Hi All

Pictures of steering arrangement and clearance.

Looking good Lynn

Robfishman wrote:Looking good Lynn

Thanks Rob

I must admit you are correct. Got the crank attached last night. Will not require too much fettling as I can actually turn it by hand with just putting everything in place. I will do photos tonight. I did have to remove the paint from the bearing housing faces to allow the bronze bushes to slide in to place.

As the left hand bush is round. Should I put locking compound behind them to keep the orientation and the oil holes lined up?

Also adding to the stable. I have ordered the water bowser. Should arrive Tuesday. It will go nicely behind the traction wagon or 2.

Hi All

Got home from work early today. Got the steering chains blackened. Before I done the blacking I welded the eyes on the adjusters so that they can not pull out over time. Done the copper ring round the inspection plug.

Hi All

Good couple of days. Been fettling the crank. Can move it easly by hand on the end of the splines. Also took the plunge and started painting the cladding. I can put the part with the inspection hole in it in place and the portions above the belly tank. I am going to cut the legs off the parts that go round the exciter platform as the filler plate covers the whole area and means there is 2 layers of cladding in that area. The joins are also under the brass straps. Will do some pictures when the paint is surface dry. I do not go anywhere near the painting area until it has set off.

Hope the photos show the gloss of the finish. I have not polished the parts it is just the paint. Couple of dust spots which will eventually polish out.

Looking good.

This is the part I'm not looking forward to.
Brush painting the cleading is going to take great patience and care.

I think the trick is going to be watching how much is applied at anyone time
And build up the layers very slowly.

Did you have any issues with runs?
How many passes with the spray did you do to get your finish?

engines are really taking shape now.
Exciting times

Hi Sonick

Yesterday 1 session.
First pass low paint volume high air. light dust allover, note not producing a coverage but ineffect "pebble dash". Leave 5 mins to tack up. This makes a huge difference with sags and runs.
2nd pass normal paint volume mid air, full coverage pass. leave 5 mins to tack
3rd pass normal paint, mid air, full coverage pass right angle to 2nd pass.
4th pass normal paint, mid air, full coverage pass as 2nd, Make sure all is a uniform wetness.

Leave overnight unless you have an oven.

2nd Session.
Light wet & dry (wet) 2400grit to remove dust spots.
repeat 2nd and 3rd

Loading the paint this way help to reduce the orange peal.

Hi

Trick I find with brush painting.

1st coat paint with 5% thinner
2nd coat paint with 15%
3rd coat with 30% gets a bit tricky but will give a very deep gloss.
4th coat with 50% if you dare!

Father, in his day, even done a coat with 75% thinner. Deeeeep gloss like glass finish

Hi All

Cleading spraying service £200 + mats & postage.

lynnr wrote:Hi

Trick I find with brush painting.

1st coat paint with 5% thinner
2nd coat paint with 15%
3rd coat with 30% gets a bit tricky but will give a very deep gloss.
4th coat with 50% if you dare!

Father, in his day, even done a coat with 75% thinner. Deeeeep gloss like glass finish

Lynn
Is this effect of increased depth of gloss with thinners related to the twin pack paint you are using? This would be equivalent to mixing varnish with the final top coat when using conventional paints, which also gives a very deep shine. Mixing thinners with conventional paint does not increase the shine; when spraying, it may even have the reverse effect.

Tim

Hi

No. It is with normal paint and brushing

Nice shine Lynn

Having inquired about two pack paint, I was informed by a professional sprayer that it is not available to the public, due to the chemicals used.

I have used Craftmaster (two coasts each layer: primer, base and coach) at 10-15% thinners and the shine is pretty good.

Good luck all, as I know the painting stage is the scariest stage of the build.

All the best,

Brian M

Brian M wrote:Nice shine Lynn

Having inquired about two pack paint, I was informed by a professional sprayer that it is not available to the public, due to the chemicals used.

I have used Craftmaster (two coasts each layer: primer, base and coach) at 10-15% thinners and the shine is pretty good.

Good luck all, as I know the painting stage is the scariest stage of the build.

All the best,

Brian M

Well done to Lynn for getting the cleading painted. can't wait to see yours on.

Brian
About time you and Dwane got some photos on here to prove it, the picture on Dwane's camera at Cheshire Rally could have been anything

Brian

Hi All

Been doing the cleading last night. I have cut off the tabs on the front two pieces that fit round the exciter bracket as the filler reaches full length in the gap at the top and results in double width of cleading. This does not look right as it is up against the smokebox. Need to do a bit of filing tonight just to get the joints tight. Both joints are under the bronze banding anyway. Cleading portion under the motion works is now in place. Looking very nice, if I say so myself. Got the bronze bands into the polishing mops also and they are looking good. Couple of deepish scratches down at the bend for the bolts but otherwise spotless!

Pictures tonight.

Photos

Hi Lynn,
You must be right up there in front now with your showmans............... looks really good with the cleading in paint!! Well done!!
You now have to protect it, which is a challenge we all face, as I reckon these engines will be taken apart & put together a few times yet!!
Regards
Tony

Tony King wrote:Hi Lynn,
You must be right up there in front now with your showmans............... looks really good with the cleading in paint!! Well done!!
You now have to protect it, which is a challenge we all face, as I reckon these engines will be taken apart & put together a few times yet!!
Regards
Tony

Hi Tony

Thank you very much.

The cleading at the front and rear should not require removing as there is nothing else to go in those areas. We may need to remove the cleading where the Weighshaft attaches for fitting purposes but I do not see any other requirement there. As you have seen I have left of the section around the block and belly tank bracket. I am thinking of attaching wool dog blankets around the cleading to act as protectors. They have wool on one side and a backing cloth on the other.

I have used some bar towels that I picked up at a car boot (no I didn't nick them from the pub!) They are nice & thick and about the right size to thread between the cylinder block/weighshaft/hornplates. They are also pretty good at catching the odd dropped washer when assembling the motion work.

Need fix. Need fix.. Need fix... Need fix.... Need fix.....
Need parts. Need to do some engine work....

You can have some of mine if you want..... got a crank that needs fettling. ( Funnier if youve read one of my more recent posts )

More Pictures

Hi Lynn

Looking very impressive out in the daylight, it's a credit to you and all the hard work you have put into it. When in steam they are going to be so impressive and I'm sure prove a good investment in time & money.