New boy on the block!

Looking good, Let me know how you get on with the locking star washers the are a mare!

I can't decide whether to use the star washers or just use normal washers and peen over the end as the instructions recommend.

A little confused as normal washers are not included which kind of implies that the use of the star washers is now the expected assembly method

What have others done?

I drilled the ends of each part and put split pins in instead of the star washers. It makes it easier should you need to release the mechanism from the doors for any reason, like when I got accidently got some paint in the runners earlier in the build and, then had to clean them out. I think it looks more pleasing to the eye too, as the star washers seem to be very obvious.

I like that idea GlenB but I am midway through assembling using some BA7 washers and peening over the ends

If that does not work I will make some new pins and drill as you have

Thanks, i think i will do similar.

Got this far so far





But thinking I may use the split pin idea on the fire doors, but seems an awfully small hole and I am great one for breaking tiny drills!

On a separate note before I attach the fire doors, what do people normally do with regards to painting the boiler. Is it a case of just putting smokebox black on the firebox of the boiler as the rest will be covered with cladding?

Also just got my James Coombes kit from Stuart Models finished and running

Very nice too.
Now you've put me in to a quandary, to drill or peen?

I drilled and used split pins

The peening of the washers on the door mechanism looks really .

With painting, I just gave the firebox a coat of the same paint that the smoke box is painted in. It seems to be ok, even though it isn't baked on yet (I used the same paint that they use on wood and coal burning stove), although hopefully a steaming won't be to far away this year once the last three kits arrive.

Hopefully we will get the last 3 kits this year at some point

Yes, my feelings entirely. I've not had anything since the 04/11 and, before things got behind, the last kit was meant to have been here in December. I'd hoped to get it all assembled and the first steaming by Easter, then I'd have had the whole summer to play with it. I can't see that happening now. Still, it isn't STW's fault the world is in a meltdown.

Looks like no Kit this month, obviously still struggling at STW. Got some split pins off the net though so i will try drilling the pins like Mark.

Sorry to hear no kit!

I received my outstanding Kit 10 yesterday, so hopefully I can start to put things together

I finished the fire door and all works well. In the end I used split pins on the fire door linkages but everything else was peened.

Nigel

What was the final solution with regard to the 3mm hole for the wick lubricator tube as I have the same issue

Other than having to do some fettling/filing, all else seems ok with kit 10 so far

Horn plates together and all necessary fettling done

2 outstanding items where I need advice please

* Crank Bearings - LH lower bearing is milled steel and RH lower is brass. If they were both brass I would leave definitely leave unpainted - in this situation should I paint both, one or neither?

* Wick lubricator tube hole on upper crank bearings is 1mm one side and 3 mm other side, am I ok to drill the 1mm one out to 3 mm and use 3 mm tube? or should i plug the 3mm hole and re-drill?

I painted both sides of mine because they seem to be painted on the full size engine, however it is a personal choice. I've seen engines with the brass one unpainted and it looks ok. Being painted though, I think the brass oil filler lids stand out more. Regarding the oil holes, I will drill the smaller one out to match and then use 3mm pipe, it's just on the list of jobs to get done.

Yes, I drilled mine out to 3mm and intend to paint the crank bearing when i actually receive it.
Received Kit 11B this morning, nothing i can do with it because its all cylinder fittings which i haven't had yet. Suppose i should be thankful but seems a waste of time, think i'd be better saving the money for later.

Having spoken to Will @ STW, I will paint the bearings as that is how they would be on the full size.

Will is also sending out 2 of the 3mm 4" scale  oil pipes to fit to the bearings. Apparently 3mm is a better size for the oil flow and the inserting of the worsted wool is also easier

I've not posted for a while, however the arrival of Kit 11A (Cylinder) means that I can now crack on as I already have kits 11B,13,14 & 15 waiting.

So I am now in the great position of being able to start to connect main assemblies together.

Cylinder went together ok with a little fettling here and there and a little tin foil to ensure the slide bars did not bind piston travel as per instruction.

On the cylinder covers, on each end I found one of the holes too shallow for the 16mm M3 grub screws so I substituted 10mm grubs.

I was confused over the need to file a 1 mm nick in the middle hole of the valve face to provide more controllable idling. The instructions stated that you could place the nick on either the forward or trailing edge of the middle hole depending upon how you wished the regulator to operate. Filing on the forward edge means pulling the regulator towards you to go faster. Filing on the trailing edge means pushing the regulator away from you to go faster. This would appear to be a preference thing but as a newbie to traction engines I would not know the best option. After consideration I plumped for the trailing edge. Hope I don't regret my decision.

Having to take a file to the valve face is nerve wracking particularly with no photo as a reference, in my view this should be done by STW, but appreciate they may want to give the overner the option on regulator direction. To add further confusion into the mix there are 2 ISO drawings showing the 'nick' direction. Kit 11A show forward 'nick', drawing date 2018 and kit 11B show trailing 'nick' dated 2019.

So here is the cylinder so far, nothing is tightened down as yet and I have not decided whether the supplied gaskets will be used or just a sealant. What have others done?











And next step is to start putting assemblies together  



Quick question, the cylinder/boiler gasket is I believe meant to fit over the protruding attachment holes in the boiler. The gasket holes are approx. 4.4mm in diameter and the boiler holes are approx. 6mm. In order to get the gasket to seat correctly should I be drilling the gasket holes out to 6mm? Or forcing the gasket down over them?



I'm sure I will have many more questions over the next few weeks  

Nigncoz how is your build progressing?

Hi Synergyn9 welcome back.

Just a couple of things that I found in my build.
1st the oil passage through the block from the lubricator hole was blocked with casting sand, worth checking now as it is a pain to get at once the block is mounted.

2nd the cylinder drains were also blocked with casting sand they required drilling to clear them.
Lastly the answer to the gasket question is keep them. You will need to remove the chest cover from time to time, not easy if they are glued on with sealant.
Simon C

Hi Simon

On the 2", I believe the cylinder is machined from solid so not going to have the casting sand issue. That being said I did thoroughly blow everything through with compressed air to clear any swarf.

Synergyn9 wrote:Nigncoz how is your build progressing?

Thanks for asking, I,like you was receiving all sorts of Kits which I couldn't do anything with or parts missing, so as we are moving house hopefully soon i've put a hold on the Kits to save some pennies and then hope that STW have caught up with themselves now the Pandemic seems to be passing, famous last words.
You seem to be going well and am sure your still enjoying the build.

Hope to be back on the scene soon, good luck!

Starting to look like a traction engine finally