Lynn Robinson. Showman Scenic

Plating kit and chemical blacking kit are out again. Doin parts for the safety valve and reversed

Spring time.

Safety valve put back together ready to be sent off for recalibration. Was going back as the adjuster nut was letting a lot of steam past while I was cleaning boiler with out much pressure.

Looks great, how did you find the chemical blacking process. Looks straight forward on paper, and the spring looks great.

Hi Rob

Absolute pig of a job.



NOT!




As an advert on telly says.. Simple!

3 chemicals.

Light Alkaline acid. Parts cleaning and de-oil and grease. Between 10 and 30 mins. Warmed is better.
Wash with lashings of cold water. Dry
Chemical blacking agent. Put parts in agitate round. Watch them go black. Remove no longer than 5 mins.
Wash with lashings of cold water. Dry
Place in De-watering oil. Lever for 10 to 15 mins. Remove and leave to drain on towel.


Done the steering chain and adjusters the same way and they look good also. At the end of year the chains will be removed. Pressure washed and re-processed to get them protected for the next season.

May actually use the process on the drive pin shanks to protect them. With the Nob Nickle plated. Should look good.

I would certainly agree Lynn, very easy to do and great results.

With best wishes
Simon

I've tried it on the bowser leaf springs. The result was pretty good although some areas were a bit patchy. I think I may have needed to apply more agitation. Plus the drying between stages is probably a good idea. I just shook them off and my finish can be rubbed off in places. I don't think I need to re-do the springs but I've learnt for next time!

Will the blacking work on brazed items? Or only on the iron bits.

Ian

IanL wrote:Will the blacking work on brazed items? Or only on the iron bits.

Ian

I have no idea. Never tried and the instructions do not say. I will see if I have something at home to use as a test and see what happens.

I don't think it will, and it doesn't work on stainless either.

Simon

I was wondering about the smoke box door handles, the square ended one has brazing splatter on it and hence my question. I could remove the brazing leaving it just the steel but I am guessing even a small amount of contamination may affect the finish acheived. Hence my query.

Ian

IanL wrote:I was wondering about the smoke box door handles, the square ended one has brazing splatter on it and hence my question. I could remove the brazing leaving it just the steel but I am guessing even a small amount of contamination may affect the finish acheived. Hence my query.

Ian

I Nickle plated mine. Looks much nicer than just black Also I polished off the excess filler rod before I started anyway. Took like 2 minutes on a rotary wire brush.

I wuld suggest you nickel plate the smoke box handles, that certainly works very well. PLus it looks good.

Simon

I am going to nickel plate mine

Nickel plating was my first choice but having seen how good your spring looked made me think about doing the door handles the same.
Many thanks for all the replies

Ian

Hi Ian,

As posted many times on this thread, I would nickel plate. However, from experience, I would have a professional do the nickel plating as the home kits are not as good a finish.

With the home kit, you may find the nickel is too thin and therefore, easily comes off when hit or a handle is dropped.

Whatever you decide good luck.

Brian M

Medium power setting and a good 6 or 7 hours. Gives a good thickness. Keep the solution clean.

Got my winch wire fitted

Got to be done, and looks great.

Robfishman wrote:Got to be done, and looks great.

Hi rob. It will be used. One task is to help get the trailer up the drive. Engine in its home. The winch the trailer up the drive.

I think it's one of those things that if you have it you would not be without it.

Robfishman wrote:I think it's one of those things that if you have it you would not be without it.

True. I use to do motorsports rescue &recovery so used a winch all the time. Even done gardening by land rover to remove trees and bushes

lynnr wrote:

Robfishman wrote:I think it's one of those things that if you have it you would not be without it.

True. I use to do motorsports rescue &recovery so used a winch all the time. Even done gardening by land rover to remove trees and bushes

Beets using a turfer.

When I finished my 4" SC Burrell and I was at a Rally with not much happening, another engine owner & myself decided to have a bit of fun. First of all we towed each other round gradually putting the brake on until the towed engine had it's wheel locked up. Just to make the engine work hard & see if it would do it! It did although it did leave a few skid marks on the cricket pitch! Also when we got fed up with that there was a deepish gully (about 2') on one side of the cricket pitch and we dropped the Single crank compound Burrell (the other engine) in this ditch to see if my winch would pull it out, up the sides, which were pretty steep (about 45 degrees). Again the engine performed brilliantly & effortlessly and everyone was impressed with how easy it pulled 700kg of dead engine out of the ditch. I haven't used it much since then but it's still nice to know it there.

Hi All

Sorry for the lack of postings. Been very busy around the house. Nursing parents, Mother had pnemonia and father had cancer lump on his face. Both recovering well. The last few weekends have been in the garden doing everything father normally does with mother helping. Weekend just gone was painting the outside of the house.

So this evening I had a relaxing time and dry built the govener.

On the dining room table.