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Lynn Robinson. Showman Scenic

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Post  lynnr Mon 31 Oct 2011, 8:18 am

Humm


Must have been a bandwidth issue as all pictures are showing now
lynnr
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Post  IanL Mon 31 Oct 2011, 11:46 am

Hi Lynn,

I can see all the photos and they look really great.

What wood did you use for the duckling boards? Looks red in the pics, or this that the oil?

Ian
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Post  lynnr Mon 31 Oct 2011, 11:54 am

IanL wrote:Hi Lynn,

I can see all the photos and they look really great.

What wood did you use for the duckling boards? Looks red in the pics, or this that the oil?

Ian

Bit of scrap teak ripped down to 1/2" by 1/8" then oiled. I am going to stick some thin magnetic strip to the underside of the belly tank duckling board to hold it in place.
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Post  craig@STW Tue 01 Nov 2011, 8:04 am

a little tip for anyone not seeing images. try holding down Ctrl and refreshing the page. if this don't sort it then its a temporary fault elsewhere in the system.

the main way to loose images on a forum is for the poster to delete them from the host site, however i'm sure this is not the case with Lynn's topic Cool
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Post  lynnr Tue 01 Nov 2011, 8:14 am

craig@STW wrote:a little tip for anyone not seeing images. try holding down Ctrl and refreshing the page. if this don't sort it then its a temporary fault elsewhere in the system.

the main way to loose images on a forum is for the poster to delete them from the host site, however i'm sure this is not the case with Lynn's topic Cool

Hi

Yup! I never delete pictures. As I always think to myself. Should this picture be in the public domain. If not sure then it does not go as even if you delete an inappropriate image from one site you will most certainly find it on others and cached on local systems.

On my own server I do not even delete "duff" pictures as you never know when you might want a bit of abstract image.
Current image count is 82500 images since 3rd Aug 2001 stored on 6TB of harddisk with 6TB of backup disk.
lynnr
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Post  Vapor Tue 01 Nov 2011, 8:32 am

lynnr wrote:
craig@STW wrote:a little tip for anyone not seeing images. try holding down Ctrl and refreshing the page. if this don't sort it then its a temporary fault elsewhere in the system.

the main way to loose images on a forum is for the poster to delete them from the host site, however i'm sure this is not the case with Lynn's topic Cool

Hi

Yup! I never delete pictures. As I always think to myself. Should this picture be in the public domain. If not sure then it does not go as even if you delete an inappropriate image from one site you will most certainly find it on others and cached on local systems.

On my own server I do not even delete "duff" pictures as you never know when you might want a bit of abstract image.
Current image count is 82500 images since 3rd Aug 2001 stored on 6TB of harddisk with 6TB of backup disk.

6 TB?? bloody power mad Smile
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Post  lynnr Tue 01 Nov 2011, 9:12 am

[quote="Vapor"]
lynnr wrote:

6 TB?? bloody power mad Smile

That's just for the still pictures Twisted Evil
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Post  Vapor Tue 01 Nov 2011, 9:15 am

[quote="lynnr"]
Vapor wrote:
lynnr wrote:

6 TB?? bloody power mad Smile

That's just for the still pictures Twisted Evil

Long way from my ZX80 Sad
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Post  lynnr Tue 01 Nov 2011, 9:21 am

lol

I started with a ZX81 kit. I had to solder it all together :-) with a 16K ram pack.
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Post  Vapor Tue 01 Nov 2011, 9:28 am

lynnr wrote:lol

I started with a ZX81 kit. I had to solder it all together :-) with a 16K ram pack.

Snap, I also built an Acorn 6502 based single board computer I also has a SCMP computer way back in 1974 which we used to develop our software on, happy days eh. Smile Smile
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Post  lynnr Tue 01 Nov 2011, 9:55 am

The days of lean mean programming. Not like todays bloatware. Big fat and lazy.
lynnr
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Post  Vapor Tue 01 Nov 2011, 10:21 am

lynnr wrote:The days of lean mean programming. Not like todays bloatware. Big fat and lazy.

Tell me about it, looking back it's amazing what you could fit into either 32k or 64k that said the smaller single board computers had even less than that. I still have all my earlier hardware complete with all the interfaces I built so that they could communicate and control the outside world.

I also used to love my BBC 32k spent many a happy hour programming with that, then moved onto the M6808/9 for industrial control applications, I was working on one of my earlier creations a while back and forgot the whole project I used 3 different programming languages. Machine code, PLM (similuar to Pascal) & C+.

Looking back at the old source code I can now see that my brain was much more inventive than now I cant believe some of the tricks I used to overcome different obsticals Smile
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Post  mikero Tue 01 Nov 2011, 11:15 am

Lynn

I have been going though your postings looking for some painting tips. You mention buffing and polishing out paint runs, can you put a bit of detail on the process and materials please?

Thanks

Mike

Ah nested loops, there's nostalgia
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Post  lynnr Tue 01 Nov 2011, 11:33 am

mikero wrote:Lynn

I have been going though your postings looking for some painting tips. You mention buffing and polishing out paint runs, can you put a bit of detail on the process and materials please?

Thanks

Mike

Ah nested loops, there's nostalgia

Hi Mike

There is a few ways of tackling runs and sags.
If the surface is flat you can use a hard flat block with wet&dry used very wet. I use a granite floor tile, cut into different lengths and widths. As the pressure point will be on the high spots.
Curved is more difficult. I normally use finger and thumb on the w&d along the sag or run to remove the majority. Then using a cork block across the direction of run to remove the remaining.

You can also get a paint shave. This is a device with very sharp straight blades in an adjustable holder similar to a wood plane. This will effectively excise the offending lump with a small amount of w&d to finish.

Using wet&dry on paint you do need to be careful. If the paint is still soft the w&d may/will pickup and clog. This will create a scuff in the paint. ALWAYS use plenty of water. I start with 600grit then move down to 1400 and even 1800 for close to finish. Do not worry too much about removing surrounding "good" paint as you will have a nice fade to the edges ready for repainting.

The best way to "see" how you are doing is number 1 digit i.e. feel.

Once you are done there you can then use paint cutting compound on a rotary buff. Followed by finishing compound if you are after mirror finish. Most of the products I use are very old and labels do not last as long as the content and there is so many makes. Frost auto-restorers website gives good guidance on the subject as most of their products have a how to sheet.
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Post  mikero Tue 01 Nov 2011, 11:51 am

Thanks Lynn I will give that a go.

Mike
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Post  lynnr Tue 01 Nov 2011, 1:41 pm

Suppose you can guess I am not busy at work.
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Post  Robfishman Tue 01 Nov 2011, 6:08 pm

On a similar subject I'm sure I have read one of your posts where you gave the Craftmaster paint mix needed if spraying. I can't find it anywhere do wondered if you could point me to where it was.....you can guess what I am doing tomorrow. Very Happy

Many thanks
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Post  Brian M Tue 01 Nov 2011, 6:41 pm

Hello Rob,

The Craftmaster paint should have two coats of each applied to the surface you wish to spray. The thinners need to be 10-15% of the volume. This was advice I was given from Adam at Craftmaster and it works well for me. However, do not apply any thinners when using their heat paint if you are spraying items, such as the smoke box.

Have a great spray (and do not leave the garage door open if it goes in to your kitchen, it gets in to everything and your nearest and dearest might tell you to...well you can guess Embarassed) !

All the best,

Brian
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Post  Robfishman Tue 01 Nov 2011, 8:30 pm

Thanks Brian, and yes we have all done it. When I did the bowser it was the paint fumes that got me in trouble as the wind was in the wrong direction.
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Post  lynnr Wed 02 Nov 2011, 8:34 am

How posh.. A garage attached to the house.
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Post  Brian M Wed 02 Nov 2011, 9:24 am

You have to see in side it. It is cover in paint (Crimson Lake)...as is the downstairs toilet....and so on Sad
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Post  bjwlancashire Fri 04 Nov 2011, 11:21 pm

Brian M wrote:You have to see in side it. It is cover in paint (Crimson Lake)...as is the downstairs toilet....and so on Sad

Does this mean you will have to line the toilet as well as your engine? Very posh Wink
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Post  Brian M Sat 05 Nov 2011, 6:19 pm

And I can not wait to see it in steam Smile
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Post  lynnr Sat 12 Nov 2011, 3:19 pm

Hi All


As requested. Engine and Bowser

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Post  Steve Traill Sat 12 Nov 2011, 5:24 pm

Hi Lynn

It's looking very good, I was trying to imagine what it would look like with the canopy on and the lights shining down on the paintwork, I bet you can't wait!!

Steve
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