Lynn Robinson. Showman Scenic

Lynn, that is looking absolutely fantastic. What paint are you using for the red, is it heat proof?

I am doing the road loco so probably do not get the cylinder stars but was wondering what paint to use for the name rings. I have as you know only just started building, done the front wheels so far , my second kit has been kit 4, STW have replaced my rear rim for one that only has one centre! Looks much better but now am dreaming of spokes!

Best wishes

Ian

Hi

The red used for the motion covers is Plastikot BBQ red from BQ. Says good up to a couple hundred deg C so should be fine as Steam temp should be about 190 at 175psi.

IanL wrote:Lynn, that is looking absolutely fantastic. What paint are you using for the red, is it heat proof?

Hi Ian

Just a comment on the red paint, I used Halford gloss red engine paint which is good for 300 degrees plus. Bear in mind that the smokebox will get a lot hotter than pressurised steam regarding the cylinder covers if the engine is working which being a road loco it should do

Also, there is nothing to stop you having stars on your cylinder covers. I will be asking for them for my road loco. STW will just need to know in advance so that they have the right quantity. I already have the belly tank starts and will want the showmans shiny bits for the motion covers too. black and brass does go nice together.

Good luck with your engine and I hope we see some pictures soon. I need to update Blackbeard's photo pages as we have been on holiday for a a while and at the steam rallys. My engine is now stood on its wheels with a tender bolted on temprarily to get the full impresion of size - and it's big!! You will get there soon.

Regard

Brian

STW will just need to know in advance so that they have the right quantity. I already have the belly tank starts and will want the showmans shiny bits for the motion covers too

the stars for the motion cover is a standard fitting on burrell road locos as per the prototype so they will be included in the kit anyway i would imagine?

Graeme81 wrote:the stars for the motion cover is a standard fitting on burrell road locos as per the prototype so they will be included in the kit anyway i would imagine?

You may be right, I will check with Steve at old Warden. He told me today that next batch of cylinders will not be ready until next month so covers will not be needed until November.

Cheers

Brian

IanL wrote:Lynn, that is looking absolutely fantastic. What paint are you using for the red, is it heat proof?

I've used VHT calliper paint from frost.co.uk which says it's good up to 900 degrees. Having had to strip off the black paint to the chimney I can tell you its tough stuff, even my bench sander made hard work of it.

Robfishman wrote:

IanL wrote:Lynn, that is looking absolutely fantastic. What paint are you using for the red, is it heat proof?

I've used VHT calliper paint from frost.co.uk which says it's good up to 900 degrees. Having had to strip off the black paint to the chimney I can tell you its tough stuff, even my bench sander made hard work of it.

http://www.frost.co.uk/automotive-paint/vht-brake-caliper-drum-rotor-paint-aerosol.html

Thanks for everyones replies.

I will try to post some pictures but so far only the front wheels painted not lined them yet but have now got a Beugler pen so may have a try once the rear wheels are done. Just need to work out what colours, looking at all the pictures posted does help if only to show the variation in styles, more choices!

Best wishes

Ian

Hi All

Sorry no pictures this weekend as my camera body is out on loan. Been painting the block today. Got it in primer now. Waiting for that to go off then this afternoon hopefully paint the black. Doing my block the same satin finish that the smokebox is in then use red highlights on the motion covers similar to the brass star work.

Hum Not sure. May need to get a white substrate and try again. Quite like the ghosted effect though.

Sorry for the PPP (Pritty poor picture) Mobile phones just do not hack it.

lynnr wrote:Hum Not sure. May need to get a white substrate and try again. Quite like the ghosted effect though.

Sorry for the PPP (Pritty poor picture) Mobile phones just do not hack it.

Really!!!!!

Hi All

Before anyone comments. I am not affiliated to STW, I am not getting concessions or payment. I have a small spare space, to me, and I am very happy to put a note to where this excellent engine originated from.

Lynn

I though it was a good idea and the logo fitted perfectly.

Rob

Hi Rob

The logo actually does not fit. I had to liquidize the image and bend it higher then resize.

Adobe CS5.5 edited

Well actually the cylindar block.









Better version of the logo.

Hi All

I have been doing the weighshaft and connecting rods. I had to trim the cleading slightly to get the weighshaft casting to fit otherwise perfection.
Allignment tools fitted and were straight and plumb. I have fitted the slides these will still need some adjusting but I do not have the required tin beer can.






The low pressure bigend fitted without fuss and little fettling and provided a spot on allignment with the con rod.
High preasure bigend is being somewhat problematic. Lots of filing of the crank cheeks to even get the bearing in so far 2 hours spent and I still can not get it right to the "bottom".

Crank allignment is spot on so very surprised as STW have kept saying you will need to move the main bearing using the shims supplied with this kit. As you can see with the conrod disconnected it naturally rests in line.




You can also see the gap in the bearing.



Once I had the low pressure piston connected I rotated the crank but the piston bottomed out. Upon unscrewing the piston out of the crosshead I then had full crank rotation.




But that has left me with a gap

Is there a difference between the con-rod lengths on the road and showman as this appears a big miss calculation considering the instructions said to fully tighten the piston rod into the crosshead. I know there needs to be some adjustment later. BUT!

My con rod had to be undone by about the same amount to stop it bottoming out too. Looked at the gap but hadn't given it any more thought. Did you have any issues with the slides pushing the cylinder rod out of line and going tight? The LP on mine is fine with the lower slide but the top causes it to tighten up but not by squeezing it but by pushing it laterally. It would appear too that my crank is fairly close to being in line without shims but havent quite got that far just gave it a cursory glance before calling time this afternoon. What colour would/should the weighshaft be?

Hi Kev

Slides appear Ok for keel alignment still to deal with them a bit more as I do not have any tin to use as shims.

I think going by photos it should be a red colour. I am doing mine the same red as the insides of the hornplates and spec plates. Also my brake castings are also done in the same red.

I'm sure you've answered this before but what lens are you using to take these photographs? The build is looking great.

Hi Dan

Do not think anyone has asked.
Camera is a Canon EOS 5D mark II
Lens normally is 24 - 105 L series 1:4 lens

Some shots are with my Sigma 105mm Macro.

Most of the time pictures are taken without flash and less than 1/30 shutter speed so to even out the flouresent tubes. No post production just conversion from RAW to JPG level 7 800x?? to fit web pages.

interesting - piston bottoms out on the HP side on mine on the back stroke ie. nearest to the weighshaft.

Also, crank alignment is spot on without the main bearing shims.

Rather than unscrew the cross head, can the piston be undone and a spacer inserted to stop it bottoming out, then there wouldn't be any unsightly screw threat protruding from the cross head ??

Nice pictures Lynn, interesting coments too...................... My kit's still stuck in some delivery depot somewhere, so am unable to start this exciting part of the build, (can't beat bits that recipricate!!)........ As you can imagine, I'm chomping at the bit to get going again!!!
Hopefully tomorrow?
Tony

mmm, interesting about the piston rods. Ian has fitted this on the control model twice (once quick for the shows and again once the jacking points and shims were done) and never said anything about this.

leave it for us to look at before you start tinkering guys. probably get the answer on Tuesday (CBT Monday )

Just started mine think it is bottoming on the gland bush. !

Hi all,

I've spoken to Steve on the phone this morning. On the design everything looks fine and there is no problem with anything bottoming out, however, he is back home in Poole this weekend so is unable to check the control model until he gets back to the factory tomorrow.


As soon as he's checked the control model we'll post something tomorrow.

Regards

Dean