Lynn Robinson. Showman Scenic

Hi kev,

Its probably worth you giving Steve a call & chatting it over with him before you panic or do any thing major. This kit was a nightmare & needed to come apart & go together on that many occasions I lost count. The assembly was also awkward to say the least & the slightest error or mis alignment made all the difference.

Dean

thx for the pics Lynn, she is looking sweet from every angle!

Grank 3rd gear. Keyways now sorted. Slight taper to them so they can be punched in with the drifting tool.



Sweet. All the way without jambing but very tight.


Crank gear pack on just to see.


Wonder if it is dry yet?


Dry enough.


and fitted


Wheel in place for a look and see. Also for safety. Thinks are slightly out of balance so wheels on to stop if falling over.




Diff getting its first paint work.



Need to turn the diff over once that side is dry and do the other inards. (Pinion gears are covered in masking)


Found a use for the Crank Allignment too.

Excellent paper roll holder.


£16 for 10 rolls at Costco.

"Walkies!!!"
That started it.

Hi All

Definate case of dejavu today.

So many of these parts look familiar.

First task was the winch drum tenant fitting.


I cut a notch in the operating lever so that the hold dog has a positive latching effect. If I put a wire on the drim I may actually have the wire so it is tied only on to the drum and the tenant engaged so the drum rotates with the final drive. Reduces ware on the winch drum to diff surfaces. Cutting the knife edge for the spring to locate was easy using a dremel and a cutting disk.

My winch drum had a very sharp burr on the outer edge so be carefull. You will need to clean this off as it binds up on the diff.



Next task was the water lifter fittings.




Fit is excellent. Had to remove a layer of paint from the hole in the belly tank to allow the nozzle to fit in. Pipework and globe valve fit very well.

Next was the start valve.


Drilling out the hole from 4mm to 6mm was no problem using 0.5mm incriments. Watch the chuck on the oil pot. Mine just missed it.

Now for chimmney off.



Looks very strange.

Blast pipe fitted once I again removed some paint from the hole in the chimney base. Dang those people at STW for being precise Only joking. Just proves how well these engines are produced and fitted together.





Not fitted the blower pipe yet. Lunch time and also needs polished before fitting as you will need to bend it in the chimney to get it to fit.

Now to take most of todays work apart again to polish up the copper and brass.


After this kit I think we are down to less than ten holes in the pressure system needing filled.

Hi All

Polish and reattached. Off to walk my dogs now.


Water lifter supply



Blower pipe and blast pipe




Exiter platform placed back on. You do not see much of the pipes.




The blower globe valve could do with a lock nut as there is no positive locking of the angle as my valve stops with the handle burried in the piston cover bolts.

Steam starter.




I also put the winch drum on but forgot to take a picture.

Catcha all later.

Hi Lynn,
Your back at the top of the tree again............... nice pics of progress.............. I'm still waiting for my stuff to arrive!!
Are you going to leave your blast pipe "in brass"?
Regards,
Tony

Hi Tony

I got my kit last night at 18:15.

Not sure yet. May leave as brass as I think it looks kinda good. But going to be a pain to keep clean so may turn satin black. Mind you we do have a roof and exiter in the way so it may stay cleaner longer.

Hummmmm.

I cant keep up the pace!!!!!!!

Looking good, I will look at my diff again too and will also make some spacer, or try certain washers to keep the pinions towards the outside of the diff as Tony did. Aquired a box of washers at the Northern Model Show (read Southern to the scots on here!) and some may be the right size and thickness to use.

Interesting point from Kev about not having a thrust washer between inner bevel and rear axle housing, I did wonder but followed the instructions as written. One of the two shims used between outer bevel and diff centre may be the way forward. I ws wondering why we need two thrust plates together.

Hi Brian

After chatting with Steve while down at STW towers. We do not really need a thrust washer between the inner bevel gear and the axil box as there is very little pressure on that surface unless you are taking a corner at 30mph or so.

Not much done today. Been doing hard work in the garden and skimmng the drive concrete to lay a new top surface.

Catched up on a few jobs from previous kits. Painting parts and polishing.

Finally remembered to paint the stearing shaft and the damper lever.



Drive pins polished up. Then the lock rings applied and welded on.



Just need to clean up the welds.



I know I was not there but it does look nice.

Hi Lynn

Looking really nice. The STW open day brass plaque raised an idea. I wonder if STW could do one, without the open day bit, to fit the hose pipe bracket on the belly tank. I know you have the STW logo on yours already but a brass plaque could look smart. Craig any comments?

Ian

Hi Ian

Hoy! I was thinking of that also.

Did cross my mind.....I was there and even I didn't get one of those. Although I didn't have an engine so wouldn't qualify.

I think there should be a joint STW makers plate / builders plate on there somewhere. Think I'll get one commissioned with my name plates at some point.

Another marketing idea there for Jo in the future.....

I wonder if STW may make a logo plaque for each of their models sort of like cars have a manufactures logo, it may help to establish a following on the rally fields with the spotters. It may upset the purists but the individual builder could leave it off. I would certainly fit it and be proud to show who supplied the parts and did the machining work.

I did attend the open day but was not a customer then so did not pick up a plaque.

Ian

Hi Ian

I have already spoken with Steve about a Logo tag. He likes the idea and may produce it as an optional extra. Don't ask me about the financials.

yeah, i spoke to Steve about this soon after the open day. we must be the only vehicle manufacturer who doesn't put a company badge on their product.

but then not everyone would want to display the badge on their engine, but then it could go somewhere else.. tool box, bowser etc.

we have all agreed its a good idea and i think it would probably be a casting if it did get done (but yes we could produce the open day badge without the open day part) but at the end of the day it's kinda at the bottom of the priority list. who knows

oh yes, and we were under "strict" instructions on the open day that these plaques were only for the people who brought a model on the day. however i did push this rule somewhat and gave them to people who, at the time, were contributing a lot to the forum. the regulars if you like.

as a result we did make a few more in aluminium. these are all we have left now and numbers are very limited. i'm sure dean could work out a suitable fee if anyone really wants one

best to send an email on that one

Yep let me know the fee, and I'll arrange for payment if they have not all gone already.

Email sent.

Sorry Craig. Hope you did not get in trouble for the logo plate.

no no, not at all. but i nearly did back on the open day

any queries on them, send to dean. probably around 6 - 7 left, wont take much to stick them in the post

Hi All

Nice and sunny today but blowing a hooly.

Graeme you asked for side on pictures. So here as promised.













These engines are getting really heavy. Just managed to get it back in the garage by myself. Rolling resistance is not too bad but the 1/4" lip into the garage was almost the killer.


My other project for the last couple of days. Stripping the decorative laminate off the area outside the garage to replace and repair.





All done by hand chisel apart from 5 minutes with one stone braker then 10 minutes with another. Both returned broken to the shop. Somewhat disappointed with Ryobi.

lynnr wrote:Rolling resistance is not too bad but the 1/4" lip into the garage was almost the killer.

Once you have gears and a flywheel working it'll be easy to roll her into the garage in gear with the flywheel. It's how I get mine up the ramp into the car.

Its also a good way to stop it rolling out of control down the ramp out of the trailer!!!

lynnr wrote:

All done by hand chisel apart from 5 minutes with one stone braker then 10 minutes with another. Both returned broken to the shop. Somewhat disappointed with Ryobi.

You would probably have been better to hire one but to be honest you'll probably do less damage to the sub straight by hand, although if you're going to refinish with something obviously make sure you get a good key.

Last time I hired an electric tool for use outdoors for a weekend we had a blizzard! Thought a tripple action, drill, hammer drill and breaker would do nicely. The drill would have fitted my polishing adaptor and given lots of torque for polishing. So would have been usefull after the primary task. Yes I will be refinishing the surface. I will be going at it with a diamond cutter disk to key it up and some concrete primer/adhesive. Last surface did last 26 years of North Scottish weather.