Today's progress

Hi all
Have completed a rear wheel today - took approx five hours including scraping excess araldite off.
Am currently building in wife's utility room as is warmer though am expecting to get kicked out soon!
Simon

Just noticed from photo that it looks as though wheel is very rusty - it is definitly not!

Looking good.

If you reply to your own post. You can keep your progress in the one thread for a more adhesive story.

Well done. So I am not the only one working in a conservatory.

I spy a smokebox and tender sitting. Pictures please.

Blimey Lynnn, you don't miss much! Have to be careful not to get wife's knickers in a photo by mistake plenty of photos of build to follow in due course - its easy now I know how to do it!

Well there is washing in the dryer.

I'd spotted the tender in the background, but had to look quote hard for the smoke box.

5hrs was good going, and I like the wheel stand that will make painting them and checking alignment easier. As for getting kicked out, you may ba right. I started in the living room, then moved to the kitchen, before finally being evicted to the workshop. Still got kits all over the house....but not for long.

wheel looking great well done, did you have any problems ? our next kit is a rear wheel .

Hi all
More progress this weekend - managed to paint four wheels today
Have finally got the right colour brown for the wheels - went back to see Adam at Craftmaster who is really helpful. Am now getting to think about how I'm going to line the wheels. Bought some finesse lining tape while i was there but can't work out how to do the curves at the end of the straight runs. If there is anyone out there who would be willing to give me a lesson I would be very interested - am prepared to travel if not too far away! I must get the lining right or it will ruin the whole engine.
In order that I'm allowed to stay building in wife's utility room have suggested that I name the engine after her as was told by someone that if you name your engine after your other half you're halfway there! When she asked me why I replied because you sometimes get hot and steamy to which I nearly got kicked in a nasty place!
Mick, rear wheels were easy enough to build - the only advice I would give is start them first thing in the morning and not late in the day as the araldite takes a long time to start setting hard enough to remove with a Stanley knife. I also found baby wipes were good for removing the araldite from your hands and anything else that got covered in it.
Simon

Hi Simon,
Wheels looking good,

I used baby wipes wrapped around a finger while araldite still liquid to clean it off

You can get a nice fillet plus it keeps your hands clean.

Kev

[quote="simonbos"]Hi all
More progress this weekend - managed to paint four wheels today. Have finally got the right colour brown for the wheels - went back to see Adam at Craftmaster who is really helpful. Am now getting to think about how I'm going to line the wheels. Bought some finesse lining tape while i was there but can't work out how to do the curves at the end of the straight runs. If there is anyone out there who would be willing to give me a lesson I would be very interested - am prepared to travel if not too far away! I must get the lining right or it will ruin the whole engine.]

Simon:
It's worth considering the Beugler paint wheel system for lining wheels. It's very quick and can give part of the curved ends - in the right hands. Steve Trail has made some lovely wheels this way (see Thetford Works, Cornwall). I find that the snakes tongues are more easily done with a brush. Whatever system you use, the painted lines usually come out wider than the nominal dimension on the device / tape, so may be better to under, rather than over do it. Happy to give you a demonstration sometime in St Albans.

Tim

hi what did you use to do the rear wheel fillet , ? we were thinking we might use plastic padding liquid metal .
mick and claire

JB Weld filled epoxy is very good. Covered in previous threads on wheel building.

Tim

mick 100 wrote:hi what did you use to do the rear wheel fillet , ? we were thinking we might use plastic padding liquid metal .
mick and claire

I used this and JB weld and found the liquid metal easier to work with. Having only got part way through the build cannot say if it stays in place once you start to drive the engine but it has with stood hammering in all the rivets in the spokes and wheel rim so it may be OK.

Ian

Standard car body filler. No cracks and she has been roadbed.

Mick
I used JB Weld to do wheel fillets. I did use a plastic syringe which made the job fairly easy - I think it would have been a very messy job without it. Was very easy to get a nice even bead all the way around - didn't really need to do any sanding afterwards - just used a wet finger to tidy it all up
Hope this helps,
Simon

We used body filler on the fronts and it cracked fitting the spokes. Used JB Weld in a plastic icing bag and then a wet finger to finish off. I like the syringe idea at this should reduce the amount of waste, and make the awkward area between the t ring and break band easier.

thanks to all for you're input ,did you use the red and black 24 hour one . like the idea of the syringe sounds less messy and not to much sanding .

mick and claire

[quote="mick 100"]thanks to all for you're input ,did you use the red and black 24 hour one . like the idea of the syringe sounds less messy and not to much sanding .

Yes, they do a large industrial pack which will work out better value than the normal tubes. This is the person I brought mine from last time but someone may know a cheaper source -

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/JB-WELD-INDUSTRIAL-WORLDS-FINEST-COLD-WELD-2-X-141-8G-/250858214345?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3a685093c9

They also do it on Amazon but its a few pence more..

http://www.amazon.co.uk/J-B-Weld-8280-Professional-Reinforced/dp/B000ALG8LO

Mick
I bought the large industrial professional size box (2 5oz. tubes) from eBay as it works out a lot cheaper than lots of small tubes. Used just about all of it on the four wheels.
Simon

thank you rob and simon that's brilliant ,we will definitely use JB weld ,will post photo's when first rear wheel is done .
mick and claire

Hi all
Does anyone have any clever ideas how I screw the pump body into the lubricator tank? Have been trying for nearly an hour - even my daughters small nimble fingers can't get into the tank to turn it. Threads are all clean as it goes in easily from the outside.
Thanks,
Simon

Small fine ratchet spanner or socket

Hi Simon,
I think I used a piece of wood dowel, whittled it down so was a good fit in the fitting, then pushed the dowl through from the outside of the box & pushed the fitting onto it inside the box, then carefully screwed the fitting in. I found the dowel helped align the treads & then was able to start it screwing in. Once you're started, privided the treads clear it should go in easily.
Regards,
Tony

Get a drill bit that fits in side of the fitting wipe a bit of flux arond the thread get it all in the best you cam with a screw driver spanner or what ever then just run a dab of solder round it it dont need to be tight then as the solder will hold it not just that no leaks all over the place

Thanks for the replies - used the end of a pencil forced into the end to start it in the hole - went in easily once started in threads.
Next query: what holds the lubricator lid shaft in place as mine is a loose fit through all the hinge holes - do I just loctite two holes?
Simon

Loctite