Rickster 4'' RL latest

Well here's my latest update after spending ahem too many hours in the garage this weekend.!

The blue is only undercoat in case your wondering. Everything going together well apart from the water pump shaft interfering with the LH crank bearing and requiring some serious amounts of filing to get it to fit.

I've left the 2nd shaft for the time being as it would have to come out for the fire hole doors to be fitted. probably have to remove the axle shaft anyway though, so she will probably have to come apart again, but it's worth it to see it all hang together and get real impresson of the sheer size of it. It's a corker of an engine. Well done STW!

I hope you enjoy the pics

Hi

Looking good.

Hope that is very low tack masking tape on the wheel and not left to long as I had lots of fun, NOT, removing medium tack tape from my fronts as it was like concrete after 3 days being on. Took about 4 hours a wheel to remove.

Most impressive!!
What kind of undercoat is that? Is it sprayed or brushed?
Regards
Tony

Hi Tony,

The undercoat is hand painted with, yes you guessed it Craftmaster using their Purdy brushes. I must be getting better at it as it only took me an just under an hour and a half to do one coat yesterday!

And no Lynn it's not low tack, but underneath I lined it with brown paper and the edges have low tack under neath that. I too learned from bitter experience with the front wheels!

cheers

Rick

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All looking very good indeed

Hi Rick,
Yep, your paint job is so impressive, I've decided to forget all the spray paints I've bought & go for the traditional "brush job", accordingly I have just spent a fortune at Craftmaster this afternoon!!
I know that the actual putting on of the paint will take more time, but I think it will be alot more controllable on difficult things like the wheels, also it can be "touched up" more effectively when damaged, plus you can paint all the nuts & bolt heads after assembly of the various components. I've seen some of the paint jobs done by Craftmaster & the finishes acheived are incredible!!
Should get the paints here on friday, so guess what I'll be doing at the week end!!
Many thanks,
Tony

Rick

how did you find the fit of your chimney cowl. Mine seems a little slack aven with poweder coated chimney.

Kev (Highpressure) mentioned using 4 copper rivets on his but I have not yet decided what will work best, any suggestions from you too? I had though of fitting some narrow D section brass beafdng around the chimney so that the bottom edge of the cowl sits/jams onto it with a little dressing up.

Brian

Hi Brian,

I should add that I dont like the bit of chimney that pokes out the top of the cap so I fit mine right to the top which probably makes it a tight fit. I've done the same with the other engine and no-one seems to have commented but it has rivets in it as well. I can take a picture if you like, it will be out next week for its steam test.

Cheers Kev.

Hi Kev

Wow, you must be first to steam test then unless Rick pips you to it.

A photo would help, just can't picture which surface the rivet heads are in - countersunk I assume and filed flush.

Cheers

Brian

Not a steam test of this one!!!!!!!!!!! The 4" agricultural I've got

Here's a few more pics following this weekend in the garage.

Hope you like 'em..[img]https://i.servimg.com/u/f69/15/39/66/26/dsc_091[url=https://servimg.com/view/15396626/40][img]https://i.servimg.com/u/f69/15/39/6[url=https://servimg.com/view/15396626/41]6/26/dsc_0911.jpg[/img][/url]0.jpg[/img][/url][img]https://i.servimg.com/u/f69/15/39/66/26/dsc_0912.jpg[/im[url=https://servimg.com/view/15396626/42]g][/url][img]https://i.servimg.com/u/f69/15/39/66/26/dsc_0914[url=https://servimg.com/view/15396626/44].jpg[/img][/url]

A few more - for some reason i can't get them all to download.

cheers

Rick

Looking good Rick, like Lynn's recent pics it is good to see some of the details on the enginer like the brakes, fire door etc..

Excellent. Keep going.

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Hey Brian,

Finally completed the rear wheels. I completely understand you sending your wheels off to get them sprayed!. After 7 coats of paint, 5 of them flatted back and two coats on the lining, it is an irksome job. Very satisfying when completed though.

Rik

What a super job, I just have less and less confidence when I see what you and others are doing. I have never been confident when it comes to painting models, happy to build all day but painting

How have you lined your wheels? Pinstriping tape, Bugler? I was considering the wide red line like yours but with gold fine lines rather than the white you have used.

I have just got my tender and fittings and noted a comment in the instructions about the wood brake block not being very efficient on the control model and an extra part is to be included. did you have the same comment?

Brian

The Red line was done with J tape - it's nearly the same width as the spoke so lining it all up is a bit fiddly on the inside spokes but you can adjust it. Then peel off the inner strips to the width required - I left one on each side of the strip which gave about a 9mm wide red stripe.

Then used lining tape F29 for the cream lines. The really fiddly part is getting the outside lines straight and getting the curves. The painting is the quick part!

Taking them off after painting is a bit tricky.

I found the best way was to do the job was to crimp the two ends of the tape together to make an easily peelable end when putting the tape on so you can take one complete line off togethe. As you get to towards the end of peeling the tape off, pinch them toegther so you have control of both ends. That way they dont' ''spring'' and catch on other parts of the wheel leaving paint marks!

The colours I used are Crimson Lake and Holbourn cream - both from Craftmaster.

There are no extra parts in the brakes. I think they weren't very efficicent with the first design and just make them deeper to get more leverage on the brake band when the brakes are applied.

cheers

Rick

the "extra part" is just a bit off brake lining. wood on steel does not have much bite. not sure if it was included or if not when it will be. i'll find out.

Hi All

It was mentioned in kit 8/9 as a later additional part.

It also mentions the brake shaft having the keyways in a different position to allow for the additional material, mine only has the one set of keyways machined in it.

If this is correct then I will need a different brake shaft too.

Brian

the shaft should have a total of 4 key-ways, one will be marked with red paint, do not use this one. the key-way on the opposite end of the shaft in a similar position to the one marked in red is the replacement "new position" key-way

let me know if you have anything different

Craig

I definitely do not have this brake shaft with extra keyways marked red. What's the plan with this and the brake lining material. I only picked the kit up last week so does that mean no one has got the update parts or was mine "old stock"??

Cheers

Brian

Brain,

I only got my it very recently and i had the red mark on the shaft.

I would suggest you accidentally got an old one.

As for the brake material. I didn't get any so I can only presume it will be in a later kit or posted out separately.

perhaps someone else can confirm this.

Nick