Presedential Candidate??

Hi Graeme,

If you are looking to continue with the build you need to give me a call to discuss please.

Thanks.

Dean

Kev

Youe engine is looking superb and the photos now give the feeling of size. Need to get a shift on with Blackbeard - one rear wheel built now, second one on bench ready to complete. I have the belly tank kit alraedy too - swapped the covers with Tim as he did not want stars and we did.

I think we need to get Lynn a boiler so we can see her showmans assembled too.

What sort of place did you go to for painting your wheels? I have bought the Craftmaster paints and brushes for our engine but I think if I brush paint all four wheels I wil go mad. Primer, undercoat and top coat around all those spokes

cheers

Brian

Steam Traction World wrote:Hi Graeme,

If you are looking to continue with the build you need to give me a call to discuss please.

Thanks.

Dean

doesnt sound good!!
hi dean,
yes i plan to continue with the build, just across the pond at the moment with work - but will be back in december of this year so hopefully ill get over to yours either in december or early january next year and collect whatever kits are ready by then....

Hi Brian,

I discussed the wheels with my powder coaters regarding getting them powdered but they agreed with STW that the rubber will be affected but they then suggested they would wet spray them as they have the facilities to do it all there. So they shot blasted them and then primed and top coated them. One was A1 first time round but one didnt get a good coverage in between the spokes etc so they re did it at no extra as they are a quality firm who dont do poor jobs. They made a very good job too. It was a little more cost than I hoped but when they expalined that the process is much more involved than powder I didnt mind. I had initially thouhgt like you to brush paint on several layers and flat it back but I'm glad I didnt. I get very litle enjoyment from tedious tasks like prepping for painting and lots of paint sessions but I dont mind the build or the nice bits like lining where results are relatively quick.

Good luck post some pics

Kev.

Thanks Kev

I will start looking for a painter, as soon as second rear wheel is complete I want to get all four painted at the same time. Even with a dry, warm garage some of the front wheel spokes have got some surfaced rust in a couple of places. It look like "rusty fingers" from one of us, not me though - as an engineer I quickly learned that some people can have quite an effect on steel regarding the oils in there skin and I know I am not one of them

I am a little apprehesive about the lining, I have bought the Bugler pinstriping tool and will try and work out a lining design that best works with it, we are not copying a prototype engine. I have to say I am very impressed with the standard of your President lining, look forward to seeing it finshed. The standard of painting that is shown on this forum is exceptional.

Brian

Hi Brian,

I bought Craftmaster paints for my RL with the intention of spraying. I Sprayed the front end in total, hornplates, tender and Bellytank. Then realised what fag it is to clean everything down before spraying, getting spray fog everywhere and then decided to brush paint the water cart.

I was really amazed at how good a result I got by brushing and a lot easier. If you look at the craftmaster webside they now have a good hints page for brushing.

I now do one coat per night up to top coat without rubbing down until the last undercoat. Then each top coat rub down with wet and dry 1200 used wet. It is also very difficult to see the brush marks and you definately get a really deep shine, better than with spraying.

If you look at sonic45's paint job, his is all by hand and it's bloody marvellous. The big advantage with brushing is you can do it flat mostly i.e. on the tender, do a side flat, let it dry and turn it over as the joins act as a natural line for a break in the paint without spoiling the wet edge effect.

Best of luck whichever way you go - I agree with you on one thing though - the back wheels are pretty daunting when brushing - very tiresome. Still one undercoat and three top coats to go. It takes me about 2.5 hours to hand paint each coat per wheel.

Rick

I agree Brian,

I mostly sprayed my 3"Burrell and the paint mist just got everywhere.

With the DCC model in going to try brush painting, going to use craftmaster paint,not tried it before but everyone seems to like it.
Are you using craftmaster primer ,then undercoat then top coat?

How many coats of each are you intending?
I was thinking of 2 of primer,2 of undercoat then 2 or 3 coats of top coat.
Not sure what colour the top coat is going to be but leaning towards red but what shade im just not sure,looking at the craftmaster colour chart they seem to be very dark or very bright.

Kev

I wish Rick had not told me it takes 2.5 hours per coat for the back wheel. I am still leaning towards spraying but I do not have any spray equipment and do not intend to buy any. I did purchase Chris Vine's excellent book "How not to paint a loco" for advise but I have no room to set up a spray booth etc.. I agree about the spray mist getting eveywhere, I painted my 7 1/4" gauge loco chassis using Halfords car paints and everything ended up covered in black dust!

Maybe I will have a go brush painting the primer on the front wheels to see how I get on, they are ready to go. I just need to take that first step. The front end I ended up powder coating which has a super hard durable finish but very thick too.

The only painted part I have done so far aprt from the badge was the smokebox door itself. I bought the Craftmaster Smokebox matt black 300 but when you paint it on it goes of incredibly quickly and is difficult to blend in when you come back to the start point. Also, white spirit does not work cleaning the brushes which was what i was told when I purchased it. I spoke to Craftmaster about this and they appologised. they called me back a day later after investigating and told me it is based ona special chemical which they do not have in small containers at the moment. Use a cheap brush if anyone does end up using this paint, you might end up throwing it away afterwards. I actually used one of the Purdey brushes I bought which ended up with particles of paint in it. Craftmaster did send me a replacement though so customer service has been good so far.

Regarding the number of coats to apply, Craftmaster advised 2 primer, 2 undercoat and 3 top coat when I bought the paint so I will go with this so I might make a start during next week as I only have one evening away on business - if I do start I will post a photo on Blackbeard's photo thread to show how I got on.

Our engine will be black with black details and matt black smokebox and chimney. There may be some blood red and pirate gold lines, kids are coming up with a lining style to apply on the spokes.

Brian

Its a shame that those without spray painting equipment cant brush paint as much as they can and get someone to paint the wheels off here? it seems everyone is more concerend about the time to brush paint the wheels.

I know if i lived down there i would be offering to paint everyones wheels for them so they can brush paint the rest of the engine.


Is there no one on here that would take that up? steve trail maybe? if everyone that wanted there wheels sprayed had them built up and ready then gave them to some one to spray, the primer and undercoat can be done on them all at the same time in a production line just the top coat depending on what everyones choice was that would take a bit longer.
It seems most people are using craftmaster paint so it makes sense for doing the above.


Just a thought


Cheers
Mark

Same here. I would offer anyone the same but I think it may be a tad far for most people.

It took me 10 mins to paint both rear wheels

10 minutes per coat I assume!

One thing that I have cocern over is that you cannot spray paint directly on to the end of the spokes on the rear wheel as they are between the T rings facing the rim. Did you do anything to solve this? I would also be concenred by overspray on the spokes while trying to get paint onto the back of the opposite spokes and when trying to paint the hub between the spokes.

There is no easy way to do this and I guess it gets more difficult the smaller the wheels get - the 2" scale builders will no doubt testify.

Brian

You always have to keep a wet edge when spraying once started then you are comitted until finished.
As for the spokes against the t-rings all parts like that i would set the gun to a fine mist first and go over all these bits then set the gun uup and go for it it does come good.

Well if your a tad to far lynn i am deffinatly lol


Mark

bjwlancashire wrote:10 minutes per coat I assume!

One thing that I have cocern over is that you cannot spray paint directly on to the end of the spokes on the rear wheel as they are between the T rings facing the rim. Did you do anything to solve this? I would also be concenred by overspray on the spokes while trying to get paint onto the back of the opposite spokes and when trying to paint the hub between the spokes.

There is no easy way to do this and I guess it gets more difficult the smaller the wheels get - the 2" scale builders will no doubt testify.

Brian

I coated the ends of the spokes by direct the spray at the t-ring using high volume of air with low paint you can get it to flow round. No problem with overspray and keeping a wet edge as I use 2-pak paint. Stays wet without forming skin for about 20 mins then starts to harden. I also use a small "toutch up" gun for the wheels.

With 2-pak I also do not require as many coats as it will spray on a LOT thicker then most other bases without sagging or running.

1 coat etch primer, flatted
1 coat 2-pak high build primer, flatted
1 coat 2-pak top coat, giving about 4 coats equivelent thickness.

Done this on my landrover90 and it was glossy without needing colour sanded or "cut" and near bullet proof out in the boonies.

Brian,

How many litres of primer,undercoat and top coat have you bought, would like an idea as to how much I am going to need to get.

Once I start painting I will choose something other than the wheels, something a bit smaller just to see how the paint performs and how I get on with brush painting.


Thanks

Kev

Kev

I informed Craftmaster what I was building and that it was all black, they recommended (and I bought) 2 ltrs grey primer, 2ltrs black undercoat and 2 ltrs black coachpaint.

As I powder coated the axle, perch and pivot bracket the smallest part I will have to start on wheels or belly tank. As the finish on the belly tank will probably need to be better than the wheels regarding the scrutiny of onlookers, looks like I am starting on front wheels - they are smaller and have less spokes

Brian

I have brush painted everything with craftmaster along with cheap oxide primer from Wilkinsons and grey primer from Homebase which goes on lovely and thick and cuts back well to a really smooth finish. 2/3 top coats.

I will take a few pictures of my belly tank tonight to show you how deep the shine and finish is having brushed it.. no brush lines and it's like a mirror.

make sure you use good quality sabre brushes.
It makes all the difference.
I went to an art shop to buy mine and they are intended for oil painting and are very soft.

Nick

Thanks for the info Brian,

I have already bought some craftmaster primer and a set of their purdy brushes so hopefully they will give good results.

I have just got to decide what colour the top coat is to be,having a bit of a block on that one I just cant decide.
The crimson lake sample I have seems very dark,the mercedes red seems a bit more red can anyone help me to decide???

Kev

Hey Kev

Any progress on The President? I was just looking at rick's pictures and he has the brake gear on etc.. How are you progressing since getting it on it's wheels?

Brian

Having just got the kit for hornplates on Friday I have done some stuff over the weekend re: bolting stuff up for good. Took off all the backend (tender and so on) to do the doors and have now reassmbled including all the bits not fitted first time ( to save on weight) Should be done at the end of the week so will take a few shots then. This will include the brake gear, steps, water fittings, spec plates, winch etc so looks good now

Finally all the bits and bobs are on the engine. All the boxes on the shelf have gone bar one, the crank still turns, just, even with me and my son sitting on the back so thats good news!! Had a few little niggles with the spectacle plates altering alignment when installed but all sorted now. Roll on 2012









Couple of things though, hope the rubbing blocks are good and big as I have caught the wheels more than once on the belly tank whilst trying to manoever and it doesnt do the lining much good .

Also if I line the chimney base up with the holes in the chimney it puts the rivets off centre on the back by 30 degrees. Anyone else found this?? Easy enough to get over just redrill the stack at the right orientation

Happy building campers

Looking very nice indeed

looking very nice

i'll have to investigate the 30 degree misalignment. that don't sound right

Does look excellent!

Been a paintin today! Should have pics later.

Kev,

Looks the nuts mate..

Nick