Small problems when running on air

1 Has anyone got the whistle to work yet, if so how, I have about 75 psi in the system.

2 I can't get the blow down valve to seat, I have filed a taper on the thread as per instructions, but it still leaks.

3 I am getting some air bubbles coming up through the lubricator, I assume it is the ball valve that needs attention at the connection to the cylinder.

4 I am sure that I have seen it somewhere but what size tube brush is reccomended.

5 Has anyone found a source of water additive the does'nt require the purchase of industrial quantities.

Now making final preparations for first steaming and feeling a bit aprehensive, I think it is easier to run it on air!!!

JDA

For small quantities of water treatment see Heritage Steam Supplies who sell it in 1 litre bottles.
DavidH

HI

I had the same thing as you with the air .in the end I used some folick past .
If you find it blows

I spose it's personal preference regards to water treatment, I too asked this same question way back when first starting my build and was told pretttttttttty much the same as another copper boilered engine owner, dont really need any treatment as long as blowdowns are regular to stop shit building up inside. Spose you could use really nice treated water to keep scale as low as poss but as someone stated to me on this forum, water treatments are primarily for steel boilers, the treatment being anti-sludge etc etc more to COAT the steel to stop it rotting so fast etc etc.
Hope this is of some use to you as an answer...

Regards

LilyJack

I would agree with Lilyjack in that a copper boiler doesnt need water teatment its just like the hot cylinder in the central heating. The worst you need to think about is descaling it depending on where you live. I had a Maxitrak 3" Aveling and live in West Sussex with so much chalk in the water it hurts but it didnt seem to cause any issues with 3 years of use. The treatment as stated is to de oxygenate the water to slow doen rust in steel boilers. Whistles seem to work better with steam than air and lots of the leaks will dissappear when in steam due to expansion. The worst that can happen is that you leak at an alarming rate when building up the pressure in which case you can drop the fire and stop real quick or just go for it and see what happens remebering to ensure that you can see water in the glass at all times.

Be brave... after a few goes you'll get the hang of it and good luck.

Hi

I have now been told it is best to run the first 6 or so times on tap water .This will "pull out the bits in corners" .
After that it is best to use the tretment

HHHUUMMM wich do we do can STW give advice

Thats also the job of the treatment compound. It not only treats, it cleans and keeps it clean.

Steve is the best person to give advice on this one, i wouldn't have a clue

I have just got my engine running on air, runs nicely too, but I have the same problem with air blowing through the steam oil. Just can't seem to stop it. Did you manage to sort yours? If you did how?

Regards

Yup, I've had and still sometimes do have back feed going through the oiler and am considering speaking to Steve about this coz not happy with the non-return valve, might be a tad inadequate perhaps? I will say though that in the first instance I had the smallest piece of shit on the sealing seat, more than enough to allow high pressure past it believe me. I know once I'd cleaned it all out and give it a little "tap" with a punch to improve the seating ie : "Dished" it a little, it was perfect but now it's doin it again but only EVER SO SLIGHTLY. On another note, water pump is runnin spot on, I'm still toying with plonkin a s/s spring through the bore to quieten down the ball chatter and let the pump give 100% of the fluid to the boiler but aint sure yet,
regards the non return valve on the oiler though, you can bet your bottom dollar there'll either be some crap in there OR the seat isn't quite nice n smooth. Find a spare ball bearing, plonk it into the hole n give it one or two delicate whacks with a hammer, makes a right nice seat (not tellin you how to suck eggs here by the way in case you already know this info)

Regards

LilyJack

Thanks for that, tried today by closing valve right down but still leaking air, so will try seating the ball tomorrow. At least all these little jobs keep me out of mischief!!!

Geoff.

Have had no end of issues with non return valves "returning" and have finally solved them by fitting black rubber nitrile balls which seem to seat much better than steel. My oiler return was a particular fiend for this and it even had two balls and a spring to keep them under tension but didnt stop it until I tried the rubber ones.

Might even quieten down the pump which I hadnt thought of or tried but might do over the winter.

Kev.

A good idea that. Where did you get these balls from?

Geoff

Kev,

Where did you get the balls from please !!! sounds like a winner to me

Malc

you can get these balls at:-

www.pollymodelengineering.co.uk

have a look and see.

Geoff

Thanks Geoff,

Much appreciated.

Malcolm

Sorry I know this is a really old thread.

My boiler check valves have now been back to STW twice and I'm still not happy that their not letting by too much. Just wanted to ask Kev if you're still running with rubber balls? I know it's not really recommended but I can't get anything else to seal properly.

Ian

I'm also thinking that when I/we start our steam build this may be the way to go (modern over-rides or enhances old).

So my pertinent question would have to be, what size are your balls!?  

(I can then get them ordered through work, gotta have some perks, don't ya know!!)

Hi John,

The SS balls supplied are 3/16" (4.7mm) I've seen it recommended to go one size larger for nitrile. So I've used 7/32" (5.5mm)