steering and boiler

just need a bit of advice
how do i set the front wheels or toei in or what they should be
i am ready to put boiler in does burner go in first or burner pan anybodys experiance
what do you seal all the boiler pipes with which sealant
can it be done without taking the water tanks out
thanks tony

Hi Tony,
Regarding front wheel toe-in, I just counted the threads on the track rods and ensured there were an equal number each ide exposed! At the moment the wheels are parallel as I thought that when (and if!) I start to use it it is best to adjust the steering after a little road use/experience! Now boiler!! What a bitch!! Be prepared - it is not easy, or at least I didn't find it easy by myself. With benefit of hindsight, you must remove the water tanks I'm afraid otherwise you will run into all sorts of problems. Yes, there will be people who disagree and I suppose it may be possible with them installed but I don't know how!! All boiler fitting must be fitted sealed with the STW supplied "Steamseal" product. When you get this stuff on your hands (which you will!), it comes off easily with white spirit so don't worry. Make sure you have a good strong hoist with which to lift the boiler and before attempting to install it make sure it fits on the burner tray on the floor i.e.all the pipes align properly with the burner or else more trouble. Also, fit the "Superwool" insulation now before installing in the car. Lower he boiler into the car and center it - remove hoisting chain/ropes/tackle. Stand behind boiler and pull top towards you such that it tilts on it's back mounting and jam it in position with a lump of steel approx 1" thick at the front behind the engine. This is very important or else you won't be able to fit the burner tray. Fit tray, engaging the back of the tray (burner end) with the back of the boiler and support with car jack and lumps of wood in position. When it is all square, again from the rear, pull the boiler slightly towards you to release your lump of metal and release the boiler! It should just click nicely onto the burner tray! Fit all five boiler to burner support rods before removing the car jack you used to support the burner tray!! The steel cladding is a great fiddle but it's just something you have to persevere with I'm afraid. There are supplementary instructions written by Ian at STW which outlines the above and there are some pictures as well - his method (the above) does work and to my mind it is the only way!! Good luck!! The other source of reference is another builder by the name of Grier Fleischhauer who keeps a blog. He is in the USA, but I'm not sure if he has fitted his boiler yet, but his blog is very good, very detailed, he knows what he is doing and is very good to follow!!
Good luck! I hope all this helps you!
Kindest regards

Greg

thanks for the reply
i made up the burner tray
painted boiler
put fittings on loose ready for tommorow

did you lift the boiler as in the picture ie near the central fitting
do you wind the fittings all the way down thanks tony

Hi Tony,
It is important to fit all fittings properly and tightly before installing the boiler - loosely will not do as once the boiler is in position as few of them are impossible to tighten properly!! Hence, after you have fitted them, ensure that the boiler will fit the burner tray outside of the car on the floor, otherwise you will have a lot of trouble. Or, at least I did because of the fittings had to be exchanged.( Long story but you will not have the problem hopefully as STW will have rectified the problem for everyone). Fittings are all NPT tapered so the more you wind them in the tighter they get - but do not overtighten so as to strip the thread (Disaster), but they obviously need to be tight. I did not lift my boiler by the central fitting as I was told it could cause damage, so I made up a simple cradle using two rods which went through the fire tubes about 6" apart to two 1/4" steel plates - one on each side of the boiler with a steel ring in the center of the top plate for the hook of my hoist. The rods were threaded on each end M8 so when everything was in place I could remove the cradle by simply undoing the nuts using fingers only. I know some people have subsequently lifted the boiler by the top central fitting with a strap but my method was dead safe with no risk of slippage or accident. It does weigh over 80kgs!!
Regards

Greg

Hi Tony,
I have tried to describe the cradle above as simply as I can, and it is very simple to make! Send me your email if you wish and I will send you some pictures of it! It only takes about twenty minutes to make but it is worth the effort as the boiler cannot slip or slide or fall or worse onto you, your helper, their feet etc etc as it would cause serious damage! It will only cost a few Euros, or quid to make using bits from your local DiY.
Regards
Greg

Hi Tony,
Here is a link to my blog specifically for how I assembled the boiler to the frame. Its basically what Greg said but with pictures.
Best Regards,
Grier

Boiler Assembly

messedabout all day today fit the bottom connections and fit burner tray thats ok
turned boiler over onto blocks spent ages cutting slots wider but the inner top cover is too small and will not go over boiler
i wanted to fit boiler today but need to sort lid to set top pipes anybody else have this problem regards tony

boiler now in after a fiddle burner pan in followed advice from grier regarding burner pan top went on after attention from wood block and mallet
clad and finish on tuesday would i buy another kit from stw yes of course i would when im flying about in car it will be worth it regards tony

my toe in is set to 1/4"