Advice please

Couple of questions please:

Does the DCC loco have a brake on both wheels or just one? I thought it was one but I have noticed that both my rear wheels have a brake band

Had my rear wheels shot blasted today but when you look closely the metal has many small holes in the surface. One wheel in particular is quite bad. Do these tiny holes need to be sanded down with a flap wheel etc. or are they ok just primed?

Started today with the rear wheel fillets - what a pain! Tried gripfill but found it dried too quickly. Now using Isopon P38 which I find easier but it still goes off quickly in this heat-also easier to sand.

Thanks
Martin

on the showmans there is a brake on both wheels
As for filler I used chalking to fill the wheels and it worked brill
mark

I used pink-grip similar to grip-fill and then a finger dipped in thinners to smooth it out. If it dries to quick I found brushing with thinners and sanding smoothed it out quickly and effectively without mess. It then sets rock hard again as the thinners evaporates.
Easy to apply in consistent amounts as its in a tube and it also sands well.

Thanks for the replies.

I guess then that there is a brake on each wheel as I think the road loco is essentially the same as the showmans.

Any thoughts about the small holes?

Grip fill. Perhaps it was just too warm today as I did try thinners.

Regards
Martin

A good quality under coat during painting will fill out the small holes and blemishes. I have found that 2-3 coats of undercoat followed by a good rub down prior to applying the top coat was more than sufficient to give a good flat finish. I have brush painted my entire road loco.

Thanks.

I think I will try brush painting.

I have a coat of primer on the assembled LH rear wheel and decided to make a start on the RH.  The wheel has been stored in the house since sandblasting (2 weeks) but it is already rusted in parts. So I think a significant amount of angle grinding will be needed

Lesson learnt - paint as soon as wheel is sandblasted otherwise it is a waste of time and money.

For this the second wheel, my plan is to get a coat of primer on the inner hub and wheel rim asap before I assemble the wheel (which could be in a couple of weeks time).  Also to try to paint the primer when the wheel is assembled on consecutive days to avoid the need to sand in between coats.  Sanding between spokes, hub and rivnut heads is not a lot of fun!

You shouldn’t need to attack the wheel with the angle grinder. Just rub gown the areas with some wet and dry to remove the excess rust. Are you using a steel etch primer? If so this will help to neutralise any small amounts off surface rust.
I was in the same boat as you after having my rear rims blasted. I primed the whole rim to protect it, then cleaned any area that might require adhesive at the mating faces with thinner to remove the primer.
To avoid a large build-up of paint between the mating faces of other major components I carefully masked said faces against the under and top coats. Steve has allowed for paint layers on assembly, but if you are brush painting you will apply considerably more thickness than spraying. So the mating faces on my assembly have only etch primer to protect them. This has worked out fine, and has made life a lot simpler when assembling, and when disassembling if necessary later on in your build.
So far I have had no problem with assembled parts becoming loose through the paint on mating surfaces softening through the heat of operation.

Not using steel etch primer but am using Craftmaster primer. What concerns me are the little pimples of rust and whether the rust will eventually come through the paint- hence the flap wheel to remove as much rust as possible.