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Confused messages about painting techniques

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Confused messages about painting techniques Empty Confused messages about painting techniques

Post  steamlaser Mon 28 Mar 2016, 4:56 pm

I have been conflicting information by various people on what, how and what not to paint on the Burrell.
1. Does one undercoat all surfaces and then bolt them togeather? For example, the hornplates and the lower brackets that hold the steering chain bobbin.
2. Does one paint the inner surfaces of all the horn plates and then bolt the painted surface to the tapped stays in the boiler?
3. I was going to bolt the wheels components togeather metal to metal, clean, undercoat and finally paint. I was assuming that with three bolts in the spokes, there should be a sufficiently close metal to metal contact to exclude water?
4. I am assuming that the inner surfaces of the Hornplates will stay sufficiently cool, that normal oil based paint will be sufficient?
5. I have primed the outside of the tender and left all inner surfaces bare. I assume the Isoflex will key to the inner surface and act as a waterproof sealer.
I have no intention of lining my engine as I have not got the skill or time. Any further tips or advice will be greatly appreciated.
Now the Workshop is creeping above 10 C I want to crack on with the painting of surfaces!

steamlaser

Number of posts : 29
Location : London
Registration date : 2014-11-13

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Post  chas12154 Mon 28 Mar 2016, 7:40 pm

Hi there, I know what you mean, you read one thing then another, leaving you confused!
I made my wheels, then painted them. Two coats of primer, then two undercoat and then, at least two coats of top coat. It all depends on what finish you want, you have tobe happy with it, as its your engine.
Metal to metal, for the wheels is best I think.
As for the hornplates, I have used normal Craftmaster paints. for the top half of my hornplates and the back part, that bolts to the tender. Where the boiler goes, I have used heat resist stove brush on paint, both sides.
The inside of the tender, where the water goes, I have used Isoflex, I have done three coats, I think. Straight onto bare metal. That should seal any gaps that you might have.

Its really up to you how many coats you do, I think.

Hope that helps.

I have a thread, My Burrell New Build, got pictures of my build, so far.

Charlie

chas12154

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Age : 63
Location : Totton, Southampton, Hampshire
Registration date : 2015-01-21

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Post  Crazy_jim Tue 29 Mar 2016, 1:08 pm

It's down to you at the end of the day mate but doesn't hurt to get the general feel of what others have done.

Me personally I built the wheels and then used craftmaster pains. As already mentioned x2 coats primer x2 coats base coat x2 coats top coat. I have nice shiny paint however I have opted for brush painting over spraying. My skills as a painter started with the wheels and by the time I was doing cladding I think I'd figured out how to get the best out of my brush painting skills.

I used isoflex for the water tender and put several coats onto clean and bare metal.

The firebox/grate/chimney and the bottom of my hornplates are all treated with halfords high temp paint. I am reliably informed that the hornplates don't get that hot as there is a air gap between the plates and boiler. I used the same paint for asthetics rather than anything else.

Oh and I used halfords etch primer spray for the brass bits.

Hope this helps answer some of your questions.
Crazy_jim
Crazy_jim

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