New builder pegasus

Good evening,

I took delivery of the first kit for the 4" burrell single crank compound last week. Today was the first chance to open it.

Already have a query. Upon first assembly there is a gap between the spoke and the rim of the wheel. Do I need to drill the hole in the spokes larger so that the rivet fits better ?

I have included a photo to demonstrate.

Hi

Welcome to the build.

You should have some nut and bolts. These are used to pull the spokes together and the "rivet" bolt need to be punched in tight.

Recommendation is to use a single bolt in middle hole of each spoke to make sure everything lines up. Then punch in a rivet in to the adjacent holes in each spoke then nut up and tighten these. Remove the middle bolt and replace with a rivet bolt.

If you drill out the holes you will find it difficult to get the rivet bolt to stop spinning to tighten it up.

Hi Lynn,

I shall give it a go on weds.  

Yes lynn's reply is the right way for construction unless you have the spokes mixed up, if I remember rightly there are two types depending on how they are set on the hub. Rim on or in a vice with the centre pulled in then a serious whack to get the rivets in, then take out the bolt and put the centre rivet in. during this process it generally buggers up the filler you spent hours carefully shaping    or you realise after fitting all the rivets what a shit job it is trying to get the filler in and shaped with the rivets cutting the ends of your fingers.....

On Kevin's comment about the fillets being cracked. Support the centre of the T on wood block while doing the rivets with the rim just off the bench will stop majority of the shock on the filler.

When I did mine I also had a gap similar to the one in your photo. I adjusted the bend on each spoke in the vice to get the gap reduced. but you do need to make sure that the hub and rim are aligned correctly before doing this.

Ian

I had the same problem as Ian.  I also put the spokes in the oven to warm them up a little and expand the holes slightly and it went together like a glove (I did this with the back wheels). You may find drilling them is not an option and even then your probably going to have the filler crack.

On the fronts though I used a long socket between the bench and the spoke and knocked them in with the rivet tool provided.  Be careful though not to damage the head of the rivet or you'll have a bit of extra finishing to do.

Hi guys, no pictures to report yet however... The front wheels are now assembled.

Do I need to buy isoflex primer and isoflex to fit the tyres ? The reason I ask is I've read Julia's build diary and she mentions it coming with one of the kits.

I'm glad I've opted for the vulcanised rears anyhow. Looks like a messy job!

You will need to buy. Julia's engine was modelworks.

Make sure you get the rubber prepared very well and the rims clean and scored to key with the isoflex.

I found good tools to aid the sliding on of tyres are pound store stainless knives, generally two for a pound, they just help to give the rubber a guide onto the rim especially if the tyre is tight. Half a dozen will do, but remember this is one of the slimiest jobs on the planet.

Mike

Strong cable ties also help to hold the tire on and stop it coming off again during fitting.

Thanks Steve very similar to how I did the bowser, ratchet strap to get the air out is a good idea.

After 2 hours of trying I have failed to get even one tyre on! Frustrated is putting it mildly! I will try with cable ties next time. Have given up for the evening. I don't have access to anyone who would be willing to help me because it is such a messy job. Took me a half hour to clean my hands.

I hope the rest of the build is not as frustrating. Just seems quite badly designed to me.

Ho it is, I thought I would need counseling after some of the build elements of the project. Seriously, it is one of those where you need to walk away if it becomes a pain in the ar$£ and return a day or so later.

Personally, I went for the vulcanization option, as I knew doing the tyres manually would be a pain. I almost think vulcanized tyres should be part of the build cost from STW, just due to the weight of the engine on the tyres, never mind the task of putting the rubber on.

People always said to me it will be worth it in the end. Talking from experience, from having to replace a cylinder block (after almost completing the build) it is.

So stick in there and think about the engine at the end of it.

All the best and good luck.

Brian M

Other than vulcanisation it's the only option. It's the only really messy job. The next ones are water tanks. I used a 99p paint brush to do each isoflex application and just ditched after use. On the belly tank and tender. I actually did them in the kitchen with out trouble.

I know Rob and I think Kevin are Hampshire based. You could ask them for help.
I did mine on the water tank in about 10 minutes each with little mess. Cable ties and father to hold steady.
Also wore latex gloves 3 layers so would take a fair but of punishment before getting to the skin.

Hey mate, where in hampshire are you, i'm in verwood, and just starting a road loco, if it's do-able, i'm more than happy to offer any assistance.
Mark.

Fitting the tyres is really a two handed job, I did do a couple of front wheels on my own once but it did involve holding a tyre lever in your mouth (not recommended)!!!  I know at first you think this is just impossible, then when I did get one on the slippery little devil slipped off again.  Hence the cable ties,  I have an old pair of overalls liberally coated at the front in black gunge,  I always use disposable vinyl gloves (for most things gungey now).  Also a roll of blue tork paper is handy with somewhere to throw it nearby ( bin )

Yes I'm also happy to help, they are not easy to do but are in my view the most tricky bit by far.  I'm in Chandlers Ford.  I've PM you my number and hope it's arrived.

Hi Guys and Gals,

I'll give it another try this afternoon, if it's still to much I'll take up the offer of help nice to have a supportive community!

The ambient temperature will seriously impeed the flexibility of the rubber and make an already difficult job that much more. Once they are on however it can be forgotten about and soon becomes a distant memory, especially once the fire is lit!!   

Excessive amounts of Isoflex and zip ties did the trick, was surprisingly easy with lots and lots of isoflex. Took me ages to clean it all up after but it's done! Many thanks for all the advice! Going to have the wheels sprayed Kev and powder coat other parts.

Excellent news, well done that's the worst bit over.

After Christmas and new year I felt I better make some more progress, the front wheels are being sprayed by a professional and I got stuck into Kit 7.

The tender was a long but simple process, only half a dozen holes needed drilling to make everything fit. Now debating how best to seal the inside and what impact that will have on painting. May go down the powder coat route.



Hope you all had a lovely festive period.

Hi All,

Just a quick update.
I Picked up the wheels from a friend who is a professional sprayer/metal finisher. I am really pleased with the outcome.



Eagerly awaiting the next kit, will practise my lining in the meantime.