Road Loco - 'Blackbeard'

I was under the impression new steel boilers were valid for 4 years at first test, then 2 subsequently. First test at 2x, which would be done by STW, then retest at 1.5x.... I'd better go read my notes again then....

My boiler plate shows a working pressure of 14.7 bar with a test pressure of 24.5 bar which s abit over 1.5 times working pressure. But I have not started to look at getting any tests.

Ian

I really feel for Brian having this problem with his cylinder block. I know from personal experience just how disheartening and frustrating it can be. The cylinder on my chain track is a mark II.

This is the second failure we’ve had following field trials and they’ve both suffered problems in the same area. That is, between the exhaust and main steam inlet cores. I had chance to have a good look at the first failure and surprisingly the material thickness between the two cores was quite thick. There was also no indication that any of the cores had broken during casting. I’ve raised the issue with the foundry but even they have not been able to offer an explanation.

We give every cylinder a thorough examination before we start machining it as there’s over ten hours of machining in every block, let a lone the set up time. Included in this examination is an extensive prodding and poking around every core primarily to dislodge any remaining core sand. Both failures are quite visible now. I’m sure we would have seen this on our inspection, or at least we should have done. All I can conclude is that there may have been some crud present that obscured the fault from view. Perhaps the steaming/pressure dislodged it? To be honest though, I wouldn’t have predicted any problems in this area of the block, I expected them to be at the other end which is the highest point when they’re cast.

Without trying to diminish the impact on Brian personally, to some extent these sorts of problems are to be expected. With some 29 cores in each block it represents a very complicated casting indeed. That’s partly why we cut the first few casting up and why we pressure impregnate each casting after they’re machined. We initially investigated various forms of NDT such as ultrasound and x-ray but neither of these processes seemed particularly helpful because of the cylinders internal construction. They were very expensive as well.

For future production, we’re going to pressure test the main steam passage to the regulator chamber. This may not eliminate all potential internal problems but it would have found the problem in both Brian’s and the previous case.

Finally, I just want to comment on Brian’s observations on the use of Foliac. DON’T SKRIMP ON IT, particularly on the boiler to cylinder jointing. I would rather deal any mess it creates rather than have to take the block off because of inadequate application. Again I speak from personal experience.

Regards

Steve

I know from experience with some of the casting we have its not easy to tell. We've had a number where blowholes have appeared in oil ways and they're then scrap. We loose a lot more than 10 hours on them then, and its money we don't get back from the foundry. I'd say you've done all you can to try and prevent it.

I fully understand the casting process and the potential problems that can occur. I do not blame STW in any way, I was just unlucky. I hear the new castings are in so hopefully not long to go now before I am smearing foliac on again.

Brian

I have been getting on with a couple of little jobs that needed finishing plus I laid the planks on the roof and spent over 4 hours sanding it smooth in the cold last Sunday - notice my cutout for driving. I do intend to look at the extended regulator as I discussed with Tim and once the roof is done I will modify the seat frame to make it hang all the way across into the corners and then work out the appropriate bracket and lever for the regulator.

Hope to get the fabric on the roof tonight and get some primer on the wood....

Nice job Brian, I just love the way it changes these engines when the roof goes on
Hopefully you'll be able to run your engine safely with all the mods you're doing, without taking the roof off as Kev (Highpressure) is doing.... be interesting to see how you get on, (keep the pics coming!!) as I'm determined to be able to use the Showmans with it's roof in place on the highway!!

Regards,
Tony

Thanks Tony

Thats why I want to keep it on, it looks a beast. I think it will be painted white now although I had thought about satin or matt black. Underneath may be varnished but the the cross braces are only made from plywood and the edges show this - plus they are burnt from the cutting process. Otherwise, it might be grey.

The regulator extension is a realtively easy thing to do once the seat frame is on and easy to make removable. The main thing is the fact that an extension rod will run over the top of the coal bunker so some thought will have to be given to how to fire on the go and getting the coal in without the roof on can be challenging - maybe a chute would work.

When Tim and I were discussing this he was thinking of taking a new rod from the end of the regulator rod near the cylinder and running it up high at the rear of the canopy to enable you to still be able reach between the rear canopy supports on the showmans engine, the road loco has the cross braces so firing would have to be done by reaching around. A sharper bend on the shovel may help as the angle of attack currently means it slopes forward quite a lot and the coal falls off if your not careful, even just stood by the engine with the roof off.

Brian

PS: Hope to see Brian Morgan's engine at the Manchester show this weekend, looking forward to that.

A bit more roofing done on the first weekend in March, sorry it took so long to post the latest pics but work has been incredibly busy for the last three weeks so time is short.

A liberal application of PVA as used for sealing various materials.


Calico pulled tight and laid ontop (after my wife kindly ironed it after doing my shirts for the following week's business trips).




Edges wrapped after adding yet more PVA


Two good coats of primer. Need to curve and trim to length the rain beading, prime it and fit it before starting to paint the roof black.

Brian

Looking very good, I note you are planning on painting the roof black, this will get very hot in the sunshine,( well it may this year) it will make the beer warm. On a friends narrow boat he repainted his boat roof cream prior to that it as dark green and it was too hot to touch on a sunny day, now you can lean on it without burning your arm.

Ian

Nice job with the calico Brian................ Is that part of the kit supplied by STW? If not can you tell me where you bought it please!!
Hopefully won't be long before "we Showman's people" are receiving great long lengths of wood for our roof's
Are you making a panel to fit the cut out in your roof or leaving as is? It actually looks OK with the "cut out" !!
Be interested to see your mods to the controls when you get round to it too!
Regards,
Tony

Ian

Whan I sat on the seat with the roof all white after applying the PVA it was blinding and as I hope to keep the roof on then I decided I wanted to reduce the glare from it. Dont forget , only the showmans engines are used as leaning posts

Tony

The Calico material is inlcuded with the kit. The hole will be filled with a small roof piece made from the five short pieces I cut off the end of the planks. They were cut accuratelty with a razor saw to ensure the minimum amount of waste from cutting. I got an additional roof cross member from STW which I will cut into two short lenghts for use with the off cuts to make a mini roof section. Once covered with Calico it shoud be a snug fit. I just need to put a narrow strip of wood )say 3mm x 6mm) on the rear of the visible cross member so that the front of the removeable peice has somewhere to sit. I did it this way rather than try to fit the planks only halfway accross the cross member and have the pins coming out of the side.

Just for your info I intend to varnish the underside of the roof after polishing the wood.

Cheers

Brian

Brian

From my experience a bright white roof becomes a dull oily-grey roof within minutes of lighting the fire.

Mike

Try using a light battleship grey rather than white.

My roof is a pale grey but take it from me it gets covered in seconds especially with the blower on or any sort of pull on the fire from work. I will be very impressed to see what solutions you come up with for the steering and regulator, I may try and emulate, but I am still leaning towards the "impossible task" thought with regards to the actual driving but I hope I am wrong as they really look the nuts with the roof on. I have loaded mine up for the steam test tomorrow and put the roof on just to show it off and it does make it very impressive.

make sure the engine is ready for the 11/12th May Chetwode, target for Brian M also

Chetwode Arms
Street Lane
Lower Whitley
Cheshire
Wa4 4EN


if not you are.........

Thanks Dwaine, that's sounds a good weekend. I already have a commitment for the 11th but I would love to come for the day on the 12th. Lets discuss this more once we know the ETA of the cylinder blocks.

Cheers

Brian

Guys,

You'll be pleased to know that the big machine was repaired at the end of last week so as soon as we've machined the boilers that are scheduled on next the replacement blocks will be on as the next priority.

Dean

Dean

Thanks for the update, that is excellent news, just make sure you keep putting 50p in the meter so it can keep running.

Brian

With a full three weeks of business travel I did not do much last week as it was my first week in the office for a while. I tended to avoid going in the workshop and spent some chill out time with the family, especilly as my wife was not so well either and was due in hopsital for a day.

However, A little more progress on the roof as the insert for the cutout is currently being made - the frame was made using an additional cross member STW provided for me to cut up. A 6mm square piece of wood was also glued/pinned to the back edge of the roof cross brace that forms one side of the opening to form a ledge for the ends of the planks to sit on once they are fixed to the frame.

Roof has a now had a coat of black bitumen paint on it too, another one to go.







I have also been working on the seat frame modifications I felt were necessary, the photos show the part prior to weldiing. There is an extra mounting bracket with a square tube spacer to prevent the seat from tipping sideways and give a more robust fix into the drawbar.

Additonally there is an additional steel angle to be welded over the part that hangs over the tender back. This will spread the load to the tender sides to prevent the flex that is evident in the tender rear panel when you put load onto the existing seat frame design, especially if your going to have a two seater unit. The step between the provided mounting face and the extended angle above it will ensure all surfaces are touching at the same time. I will also make pads from cork sheet with holes cut in to clear the rivets.

The other piece you can see is the pivot for the extended regulator. The piece in the photo needs turning down at the end before welding but you can see the idea - more to follow.

Looking forward to seeing what you do with it.

Super work sir!

I concur & eagerly await further updates, good job Brian
Regards,
Tony

I have also been making the front number plate bracket and here is the actual Burrell drawing for it taken from Gilbert's Traction Engine Design supplement book - I will be riveting the brackets on mine tonight and trial fitting it so will post more pictures. Also, the seat frame is back so will be cutting the cork pads to go under it.

Here is the number plate finished and mounted. Just need to come up with something for holding the flags, some tube with an end cap so it can be welded or silver soldered on and then off to powder coat in the same black as the smokebox. The actual scale number plate is on order and should be here soon, an aluminium pressed one with the exact letter size as per the drawing. I ordered two, one for the front and one to go on the rear of the canopy or on the tender - not decided yet.