Rob & Tash Showmans

IanL wrote:Rob and Lynn,

GOLD LEAF !!

OK I give in

Ian

Can't be difficult.....famous last words there. It is possible to buy it on a roll in a couple of widths so it may actually be easier than it looks.

Ok I know it's a bit extravagant and not really necessary and arguably a bit OTT but should look great against the ex mayor blue we are using. I think the imitation gold paint would just not look as good.

Link to gold leaf rolls if anyone else interested. Available in 6mm, 12mm, 19mm, 25mm wide in 22ct and 23.5ct Gold and Many more widths in imitation gold

Gold leaf - http://www.stonehouses.co.uk/product_list.php?id=914

Imitation Gold Leaf - http://www.stonehouses.co.uk/product_list.php?id=926

Tender tank delivered today, was out but will pick it up tomorrow / Saturday. Perfect timing for Easter break.

Following a great afternoon spent at Finchdean, we have started to put together the Tender. We have however hit a problem and I can't see where we have gone wrong. It would appear as if the tank front is to tall to fit between the base and the lid. The top of the top flange is level with the top of the top tank plate.

Has anyone else had this problem, or can anyone see where we have gone wrong?



Umm. by Robert R&N, on Flickr

For information if I take the top off and fit the front plate (as I did the first time) the top plate runs up hill, and although the holes at the back line up by the time you get to the front they are way off suggesting the front plate may be to big?

Hi Rob,

When I built my tender I put the top in last, but did initially put it all together using a number of bradawls to hold the various pieces together Clecos would have been better but I do not have any. Just as with the belly tank I found the front panel did not have particularly square edges. The other issue I found was the bottom corners of the front panel needed a bit of persuasion to fit in tightly, it was these corners that really lifted my front panel. Even after working on these corners I did find that the top panel still needed the front few holes running a drill bit through but certainly no more than quarter a hole.

Looking at your picture have the sides of the tender bulged slightly, also are the lower corners of the sides and base slightly less than 90degrees ie. they may need easing down. These two changes could help gain a little extra space of or the front panel.

I did find the tender a real challenge to get the panels to meet where they should.

Good luck

Ian

Thanks Ian.

I'll have another look at it this evening.

Hi Rob

I did not have any problem. I put the tender floor in fully and the bottom. Then effectively press fitted the front panel using sash clamps. Everything was very tight but all lined up once the panel was in. No holes drilled.

Hi Rob,

I think the variation in fit is probably due to the bends on the panels springing slightly after being bent. I had a really tough time with the top rear corners as the right hand side panel curved inwards on the top edge even with cramps and using a persuader I had too accept a non perfect fit. It is only noticeable when placing the tender extension on top as that was perfect and is slightly wider 3mm than my tender top. Nobody will probably notice but I know it is there!!!

Ian

Hi
I think looking at the pictures there is a slight overbend on the bottom of the tender sides. This pulls out when all the rivet bolts are tightened up. I've built three tenders and put the tops (floor) in last and they've all fitted perfectly with a sharpened 4" masonry nail used as a hole locator. Generally when fitting the rivet bolts I start in the middle of a run and work out either side then any slight discrepancy is minimised.

Thanks all for your comments and advise, if there is one thing worse than fitting the rivet bolts it taking them all back out again. Anyway I have taken it apart and am how slowly putting it back together and will keep you posted.

Boy what a tricky kit to get together. After taking it all apart I think I have most of it lined up and back together and think I found the problem.

The curves in the side panels was caused by the width of the front panel being slightly wider than the gap between the two side. When I put it together this time I fitted the front panel before the base, and found while everything else lines up the holes in the base are 1/4 of a hole out to that in the side panels on both sides at the front and get better alignment further back.

As you all spotted this was causing a bow to the sides meaning the front panel would not fit and none of the holes were lining up.

Thanks for yor info on the top section Ian, mine was exactly the same now though I have lined the top section up and will sort the rest of the holes back out. Looking over the holes several need to be drilled out as they are between 1/4 and half a hole off.

Another few hours work and it will be ready for paint.

The good news is I now have the sides, base, back and front panels all fitted and all the fixings are in place ready for sealing.

This leads me to a question, should I seal the break tube at this stage or is it easier if left till after the breaking system is fitted?

Once sealed I'll fit the top and be ready for paint by Friday. Photo's to follow.

Hi Rob.
Fit and seal as there is no requirement to remove again. I fitted mine. Sealed up to the 1/2 inch before the rivets. Done the front panel to the flange. Bolted up then run seal round the joint to finish.

Thanks Lynn

I did as Lynn, but remember to seal up all the threaded areas to stop the sealant getting into them.
Ian

IanL wrote:I did as Lynn, but remember to seal up all the threaded areas to stop the sealant getting into them.
Ian

Blob of candle wax in the threads. Works very well.

Well the tender has kept me busy over the Easter break. We still have to seal the lid of the tank, but other than that its all sealed and tested with no leaks (exept round one of the temp bolts where I ran out of O rings.


Tender by Robert R&N, on Flickr


Tender by Robert R&N, on Flickr


Tender by Robert R&N, on Flickr

What a great job STW have done to make sure this all lined up....not yet rounded these off yet.

Tender by Robert R&N, on Flickr

Inside the tender tank...

Tender by Robert R&N, on Flickr

Now in primer ready for basecoat...the outside will be the Ex-Mayor blue and inside red..,..

Tender by Robert R&N, on Flickr


Tender by Robert R&N, on Flickr

Ive still got some rubbing down to do on the beading...

Tender by Robert R&N, on Flickr

First top coat of red enamel applied to check the colour...

Tender by Robert R&N, on Flickr


Tender by Robert R&N, on Flickr

A bit more work to do to tidy up a few joints and when we get a nice day will apply the base coats.

Hi Rob

Nice progress. Glad you got the front panel sorted.

Leave the inspection cover unsealed until total build finish as your hand will be in there a few times before then.
Have you made a dipstick? before you move too far into paint.

lynnr wrote:Hi Rob

Nice progress. Glad you got the front panel sorted.

Leave the inspection cover unsealed until total build finish as your hand will be in there a few times before then.
Have you made a dipstick? before you move too far into paint.

Thanks Lynn it was a bit of a pig but yes we got there in the end.

Thanks also for the reminder, no dip stick yet but I have the tube and fittings ready to make one in the workshop and it now next on the list. Also our try cocks have been moved to the other side of the tank and will be operational. The old holes have been sealed filled, and the new will be drilled once they arrive to check the size of the holes needed, should be here during next week I hope.

Where are you getting your tender taps?

I am also looking at replacing mine with something better looking. It is the only part of the engine I am not happy (very happy) with.

Mine are coming from Heritage Steam Supplies down here in Fareham.

http://www.heritagesteamsupplies.co.uk/Heritage-Steam-Supplies/Gauge-&-Test-Cocks/Bent-Nose-Gun-Metal-Cock/p-297-373-506/

But I think they are also available from Live Steam Models from what I recall from another post...hang on and ill try and find it.

EDIT :
Found it....Nick prev posted the ones he found which look longer so may be better if they are as STW design as the water wont be going all over the breaking system.... https://traction.forumotion.com/t860-tender-try-cocks?highlight=tender When mine come ill measure them so you can check the Heritage ones before you order if they are the ones you like.

Rob

These are the type fitted to Ex-Mayor.


Ex-Mayor Try Cocks by Robert R&N, on Flickr

Thanks Rob.

is it 1/8" or 1/4"?

I've ordered 1/8 and will see how they look, it may be 1/4 will give you a longer spout to clear the break mechanism though, and be less prone to clogging up.

When I spoke to Steve some months ago he did say that the tender taps did let the side down and that when he gets a chance he would do something different. It is the only part on the whole engine that looks wrong and as this is a flagship product for STW I doubt if they will continue with the present 'Horses Willy' tender taps. I for one look forward to version II of the tender taps.