Fitting the Cylinder
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Fitting the Cylinder
Well my cylinder is all bolted onto the boiler today. I found that I needed to shorten a couple of the studs for the left hand side to get them to fit. Also needed to remove a little metal on the cylinder around two front studs so that the washer and bolt would lay flat.
Tightening the studs was a little nerve racking(5 turns of PTFE) as I was unsure of the fine line between tight and thread stripped. No threads were stripped I am pleased to say - I just hope they are tight enough. The ball bearing and dome head nut supplied by STW did not really work for me and I found a couple of nuts locked together was easier.
I plan to shorten the studs but I am wondering whether to wait until after the first steaming just incase there is an issue with the studs or the cylinder and the studs/cylinder needs to be removed.
Regards
Martin
Tightening the studs was a little nerve racking(5 turns of PTFE) as I was unsure of the fine line between tight and thread stripped. No threads were stripped I am pleased to say - I just hope they are tight enough. The ball bearing and dome head nut supplied by STW did not really work for me and I found a couple of nuts locked together was easier.
I plan to shorten the studs but I am wondering whether to wait until after the first steaming just incase there is an issue with the studs or the cylinder and the studs/cylinder needs to be removed.
Regards
Martin
parador- Number of posts : 76
Registration date : 2008-07-02
Re: Fitting the Cylinder
Hi
I would leave long to start with just in case. The issue of steam passage blow through to exhaust was the older block design. The newer block with the back plate on the cylinders have different internal configuration.
You may also find that the block may settle a bit once steamed.
I would leave long to start with just in case. The issue of steam passage blow through to exhaust was the older block design. The newer block with the back plate on the cylinders have different internal configuration.
You may also find that the block may settle a bit once steamed.
_________________
Lynn
Technical Support
Steam Traction World Ltd
Re: Fitting the Cylinder
Hi,
As I will face same job soon, what would you recommend, Lynn? 5 turns of PTFE tape and the possibility of stripping or cross-threading ( happened to me on other job), the PTFE yarn (like Loctite 55, said to be gas tight, so should also be good for water/steam) or liquid pipe seal (Loctite 567 jumps into my mind => Chrix built on YouTube), expensive but I guess less so than a stripped thread in the boiler
Just musing
Elwood
As I will face same job soon, what would you recommend, Lynn? 5 turns of PTFE tape and the possibility of stripping or cross-threading ( happened to me on other job), the PTFE yarn (like Loctite 55, said to be gas tight, so should also be good for water/steam) or liquid pipe seal (Loctite 567 jumps into my mind => Chrix built on YouTube), expensive but I guess less so than a stripped thread in the boiler
Just musing
Elwood
elwood-59- Number of posts : 300
Location : Germany-NRW
Registration date : 2014-12-17
Re: Fitting the Cylinder
Hi
On Crystal I used Heldite jointing compound without issue. Using a liquid thread sealant would be a prefered option for me as little risk to the thread itself.
On Crystal I used Heldite jointing compound without issue. Using a liquid thread sealant would be a prefered option for me as little risk to the thread itself.
_________________
Lynn
Technical Support
Steam Traction World Ltd
Re: Fitting the Cylinder
I would advise using Steam Seal or Foliac Paste on the studs.
As for the main joint between the block and the barrel, use Foliac or Steam Seal paste spread reasonably thinly with a brush or spreader - don't be tempted to apply a thick layer as you're aiming for a good tight joint not a thick sandwich, the excess will only find its way into the steam space up to the regulator etc....
If you're going to use Loctite make sure it will withstand over 200 deg C, as the temperature of steam @ 170 psi is just over 190 deg C.
As for the main joint between the block and the barrel, use Foliac or Steam Seal paste spread reasonably thinly with a brush or spreader - don't be tempted to apply a thick layer as you're aiming for a good tight joint not a thick sandwich, the excess will only find its way into the steam space up to the regulator etc....
If you're going to use Loctite make sure it will withstand over 200 deg C, as the temperature of steam @ 170 psi is just over 190 deg C.
Capricorn1- Number of posts : 119
Location : West Yorkshire.
Registration date : 2013-07-22
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