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Spokes fitting to hubs

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Capricorn1
Steve H
Mike King
T140
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Post  T140 Wed 03 Dec 2014, 8:26 pm

Evening,

I'm still cleaning spokes and rims so no rush for an answer but I have searched the forum for the answer, no luck though.

What is the favoured epoxy to use to stick the spokes and hubs together with, please?

Could one use JB weld as this is harder and can be sanded?

Cheers.

Richard.


T140

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Post  Mike King Wed 03 Dec 2014, 8:41 pm

Hi,
I am just getting the the ssme stage as you, i am going to use Araldite Precision, as suggested in the instructionsc STW as its slow setting.
it takes several hours to go off, so i assume will give you the chance to reposition if required.

Regards
Mike

Mike King

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Post  Steve H Wed 03 Dec 2014, 10:13 pm

I used JB Weld on all of my spokes, it's easy to sand back once it is fully hardened
regards
Steve Very Happy
Steve H
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Post  Mike King Thu 04 Dec 2014, 7:31 am

Hi, is it less messy than araldite?
Mike

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Post  T140 Thu 04 Dec 2014, 12:29 pm

That is whay I asked.

Recently I built a canoe/dinghy and this was fabricated from plywood, then covered in Epoxy which went on like paint. But as an adhesive it was far to runny and I had to add a thickening agent before sticking stuff together. If you buy two pack epoxy it is quite runny and will get every where. Hence I wondered about JB Weld?

Oh and if you want to protect surfaces from epoxy, cover with builders plastic sheeting that is used for damp proofing, epoxy just flakes off when dry. Must be a polythene plastic.

JB weld you can actually sand where I found with epoxy it just clogged the paper being used as it is quite soft. Mind you the stuff I used on the boat went as hard as glass and sanded or polished really well.

I shall see how many replies and go from there.

Thanks.

Richard.

T140

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Post  Capricorn1 Thu 04 Dec 2014, 12:42 pm

I used Araldite high strength on the 4" DCC, once it has set you can trim away the excess with a sharp knife or narrow paint scraper. I did'nt put any on the palms of the spokes as you'll squeeze it all out when tightening the rivet bolts up anyway.
If you dry build first to make sure everything fits as it should there should be no need to reposition anything, and so providing you don't go mad with whatever adhesive you decide to use it should be easy clean off.

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Post  Mike King Thu 04 Dec 2014, 12:51 pm

Thanks for the info. Its my first build, and i want to do a proper tidy job. The instructiond says use araldite,so maybe thats the way to go. Thats a useful peice of advice with regards the spoke tongues.
Once again,thanks for the input.
Regards
Mike

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Post  IanR Thu 04 Dec 2014, 2:02 pm

I used Araldite on the fronts and JB Weld on the rears. I think I preferred how the JB Weld went on but either did the job OK.

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Post  lynnr Thu 04 Dec 2014, 2:12 pm

Aruldite and if you have a look at my little video. It shows building a 4" wagon wheel in the kitchen. So not very messy at all.

lynnr
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Post  Mike King Thu 04 Dec 2014, 3:11 pm

Thanks for the video. Very informative. You make it look so easy!
Regards
Mike

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Post  IanL Thu 04 Dec 2014, 5:06 pm

Now I understand why you build so fast!
Ian
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Post  LiveSteam Thu 04 Dec 2014, 5:59 pm

That's quite some epoxy mixing action at 4-10 in the video Wink and I want your washing machine, wow quite a spin speed there LOL

Lovely build video, one day if I have the time they will be very useful Cool

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Post  lynnr Fri 05 Dec 2014, 6:38 am

Real time start to finish was 42 min
lynnr
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Post  Mike King Fri 05 Dec 2014, 7:40 am

Thats real quick, it just shows thst there is no substitute for experience. Good quality video by the way!
Mike

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