Rob & Tash Showmans

Well yesterday was a milestone in the build.  After a trip to STW towers on Tuesday morning for some adjustment to the winch drum yesterday for the first time in a while, and on its own wheels the engine was pulled out of the workshop.  It was filthy and needed a good clean but looked great after a wipe over with a damp cloth.

Side by Rob Fish, on Flickr

Update by Rob Fish, on Flickr

Update by Rob Fish, on Flickr

Update by Rob Fish, on Flickr

Update by Rob Fish, on Flickr

There is still a fait bit to do, but it wont be long now.

Looking great, be nice to have a STW showmans down this neck of the woods as I'm not sure there is one, could be wrong though.

Looks mighty fine there,Rob
Steve H

It's all coming together very nicely. Nice work.

Jim

Thanks all.

Question for all of you who have finished and had your first boiler test.  The next item on my list is to fit the cleading, to do this quite a bit will need to come back off again.

Did your boiler inspectors want to see the boiler itself when the initial tests were carried out or is it safe to clad.

I've spoken to the Walker Midgley today and they are sending me a list of boiler inspectors and I guess all may have different requirements.  But what have you found when it came to the tests?

Also thinking out loud here, as I've been working on it a while is it worth getting a new 10 year test carried out at the same time, I've no idea what this entails, but I think I've had my boiler for over 3 years already, and by the start of next season I think its over 4 years. Ill need to check the paperwork on the age.

Sent you a PM, Peter Hawkins I suspect will be your man, he does a fair few STW/MW engines around here so knows them well and be able to advise you

Perfect thanks Chris, I'll give him a call.

How much does it cost for an independant boiler inspector,im thinking of having mine done that way.
Thanks
Kev

Sent you a PM as I expect it would depend on where your based and how far a boiler inspector would have to travel ??

A bit of a technical question I'm in the process of fitting the starting valve and it would appear as if the ball holder should go in the hole in the cylinder, and I assume the spring remain on the outside of the cylinder to return the ball to the closed position

The holder is to big for the hole, before I make it larger, can anyone remember how it went together, and if any of you had to increase the hole.  Happy to increase it, but do t want to if I've misunderstood what's required as it would be game over for the cylinder.  Also anyone khow what size the hole should be?  

Untitled by Rob Fish, on Flickr

Just read Kevin's post on the subject in his build diary. Yes I can see I need to drill the hole bigger.  Knew I'd find it after I'd posted the question.

Yes drill hole slightly bigger also round off the ends of the flutes so they travel without binding.

If you can get another ball to hit to make the flange.

I also found that fitting a slightly stronger spring has made a big difference. It stopped the low pressure let by and gives a better feel when operating.

Thanks Phil I did the same following your post.

I'm struggling a little to sort ot the correct arrangement for the governor.  See below. It seems to me something is not in the correct alignment as it's not lining up the the holes in the liner?  Does anyone know the correct alignment?  How should the liner and the brass piece at base of the shaft sit in relation to one another?

Governor Base. by Robert R&N, on Flickr

Governor Base. by Robert R&N, on Flickr

Many thanks.

Rob.

Couple of half days spent in the workshop over the last few days. Governor has been fitted, lubricator fitted but has a problem (waiting for STW Towers to reopen), and various parts fitted. A few updated images below.

Untitled by Robert R&N, on Flickr

Untitled by Robert R&N, on Flickr


Untitled by Robert R&N, on Flickr

Somehow I've got to fit the pipe from the boiler to the water gauge without taking everything off. Mine was a bit short and waiting for a replacement. I got the old off, but getting the new fitted will be interesting.

Has anyone else had a broblem fitting the gear guard on the diff side of their engine. The holes in the homplate don't line up with the brackets?

Thought as I'm waiting for the lubricator to come back I'd take the wheel off and fit it today. Lots oh head scratching later I put the wheel back on and the guard back on the shelf for another day.

Nope no problem fitting mine.

A quick update.

I had a problem fitting the fuse plug last week and with the help of a thread cutter I cleaned out the thread and was able to refit it. I put the front of the engine on a set of car ramps (on a couple pieced of wood to protect the rubber tyres. Its tight for space under there for those who have not climbed under. Its now fitted and ready run.

This weekend I hope to set the timing, which I am sure is simple, but reading the instructions sounded very complicated, and try running it on compressed air....watch this space.

Robfishman wrote:

This weekend I hope to set the timing, which I am sure is simple, but reading the instructions sounded very complicated, and try running it on compressed air....watch this space.

Wow excellent, will we be seeing you at Bill Targett this year as thats only up the road from you

Not sure, I've not applied anywhere as yet.

I hope to be at twyford waterworks either in steam if all goes to plan or static if not.

Robfishman wrote:Not sure, I've not applied anywhere as yet.

I hope to be at twyford waterworks either in steam if all goes to plan or static if not.  

If thats the Spring Rally on the 7th May then I'll see you there as I'm all booked in (new one for us), then the weekend after its Bill Targett which is one of our favs, great atmosphere and lovely bunch.

I've sent the form off for both the May and July open days so hope to be there.

I do have one small. DIY job to do first in that at the moment neither of the gates out of the garden are wide enough, so I've got to take down a section of wall and rebuilt to make one wider, and make a new gate.

Had confirmation and will be at Twyford. Tried running on air on Sunday but had a couple of leaks where I had gaskets missing, safety valve and cylinder covers were the problem areas. I put them somewhere safe and couldn't find where I had put them, anyway I thought I'd give it a go anyway. I did find them after I decided to call it a day, but too late in the day so a job for the weekend and I'll give it another go.

Seemed to me when I tried to start it all the air went straight out the blastpipe, not sure why and so I need to give it a good going over to see what I've done wrong next weekend. It turns over by hand loveily and I was hoping to see it run under its own power.

I've got to be a bit careful as I had a problem with the lubricator and it's gone back for adjustment. It's not back yet so still having to do manually.

[quote="Robfishman"]
Seemed to me when I tried to start it all the air went straight out the blastpipe, not sure why and so I need to give it a good going over to see what I've done wrong next weekend. It turns over by hand loveily and I was hoping to see it run under its own power.  

I tried running mine on air and it didn't like it. did what yours did and expelled the air too quickly and doesn't get lubricated properly..  I would opt for wet steam as I did and she turned over much better and free.

With regards to the timing. Its considered a black art to some but there is some pointers out there if you search google for
Ross Bishop - Stephenson’s Valve Gear.  

you can run the engine with the low pressure valve cover off and dampen the exhaust noise with a towel carefully placed over the block so it doesnt catch . This will make your engine run as a single and you can here the beat clearer.
Your aiming for a steady beat which is even on both strokes and the two chuffs sound the same. Not one louder than the other and evenly spaced. its takes some tinkering but with careful adjustments its not to difficult to achieve.  

It is imperative you have the crank in the correct position when making adjustments.  searching online will assist in doing this.

Make sure you have plenty of water in the glass. over half.
Heat her up nice and slow so your fully in control of the fire. no need to go mad with the coal and keep trying to turn her over on the fly wheel until she goes under her own steam. 40 on the clock upwards.

You can then maintain that size of fire and play around with the timing / leaks / getting water into the boiler without worrying about to much.

Building it is just the first chapter. running it is the rest of the novel.

enjoy.