Another New Showmans

Hi all, Well got my first kit today, checked everything off all ok, Have read the instruction and tried some bits with other bits, impressed with the finish,
I will not be doing a running commentary as there are several already on here, although I'm sure I will be asking questions as I go,
I think this forum is one of the reasons why I am starting this build.
This will be my first traction engine build after several locos both 5" and 7 1/4", although I was involved with a 4" Plastow's Fowler showman's whilst an apprentice in the early 1980's

Regards

Nigel

Hi and welcome aboard.

Please do a running commentary. We are all friendly and it would be wonderful to get another photo log going.

It never hurts to have a new build log, there’s a number of folks that read the forum before deciding to start their own builds. It was those builds that I would read up on and look at the photos before putting a deposit on my own engine. The same builds also have lots of info to share to those that are building an engine as well.

Hi
Will see what I can do with a build log, will need to have a word with the IT dept (My son) about photos as I don't have a photo bucket account.
Must admit I have followed Lynn's and JayBee build with interest, I did Meet Lynn several years ago at Pickering, we spoke about the engine and the build thanks.
Lynn are you still making the stencils?, Can I order a set for my showman's roof, based on STW delivery I will need then around Dec 2024

Have fun and enjoy your build

Do run a build log if only for your own interest as its useful to know at times when some things are done, also you'll find many folks will find it interesting. I think I've read every single build log on here with great interest But I doubt I will ever actually build an engine I'm just not a builder type but more of a driver/fiddler

Hi all
Well I've started, spent two evenings last week cleaning wheel spokes up, found the mill scale cleaned off ok,
found one advantage of having an integral garage is the wife knocks the wall when cup of tea ready Also when it's bed time!!!
cleaned the wheel rims and have loose assembled one wheel, did have to use some longer M6 bolts to pull the spokes in, going to glue that wheel together tomorrow.
should have some photos if the link works!!

Bit more progress, one down, one to to go although the second is ready for the epoxy, but will have to wait until the weekend.
One thing I have noticed is the Brass screws that hold the hubcap on are too long by about 3-2mm, my outer covers have blind holes so not sure if that is the reason
I can shorten mine but thought I would mention it.
Overall very impressed, both with the fit of the parts and the overall results.

Looking good. Steady as she goes.

Morning Nigel

"I have noticed is the Brass screws that hold the hubcap on are too long by about 3-2mm, my outer covers have blind holes so not sure if that is the reason
I can shorten mine but thought I would mention it."

You will almost certainly find other screws and bolts that will require adjustment in the length as you work through the kits so don't panic.
The blind holes in the outer cover are a good thing as it will prevent the epoxy squeezing into the threads as you tighten them onto the hub.
I have recently rebuilt a 2" aggie and the person who built the wheels on that had let the epoxy ooze out through the holes, it wasn't a good day, drilling and tapping 8BA holes.
Keep up the good work and keep posting the pictures.
Simon C ( A full roofer)

Hi Nigel,

I'm by no means an expert builder as I am only just coming to the end of building a 4" DCC RL. One thing that really made cleaning the mill scale off laser cut parts was immersing the parts in patio cleaner for 20 minutes. It lifts the scale straight off and really cuts the time to linish them for painting. A quick flush with water or a solution water and Soduim Bicarbonate neutralises the acid and stops the steel from rusting.

regards,

Neville

Hi All

Thanks for the support so far, Just for information this is not my first experience with model traction engines, I was first introduced as an apprentice in the early 80's
The photo below shows me ( No I'm not saying which one is me) with a 4" Fowler Showman's build to Plastows design,
This engine was built by the first year apprentices from Thorn Lighting Leicester over a period of 10 years, The engine won the Gold medal at the Earls Court show in 1982.

Good to see another new build from the new batch. I am also on this batch building a Road Loco but in the process of moving so will be starting my build in a month or so.

Hi Bit more progress today, started to spray the primer, bit of a steep learning curve today with the spray gun, will need to wet and dry as a bit thick in places and some runs, but generally good.

With spaying try some scrap to get the feel of how it goes on.

When I was painting Crystal I always did a couple passes on the scrap practice piece before moving on to the real target for the session.
Just gets the memory and action going again before it matters

Hi Lynn
Yes I have a piece of Hardboard and a piece of sheet steel to practice on, just need more practice, Thanks for your advice,
Will do the under coat when it get's a bit warmer.
How's the weather up North?, bet it's cold, news said it was -16 in the Highlands.

The spray gun can be a bit tricky at first but you’ll get the hang of it pretty quickly. There is a fine balancing act of paint thinners, air pressure and the setting of the gun itself. The paint I use calls for a mix of up to 10% thinners, each brand has different requirements of types of thinners and how much to mix in. A bit of advice I can offer without knowing your technique, always strain the paint when pouring into the cup to filter out any impurities or thick paint that can’t be sprayed. Thin even coats and build it up, you can always wet sand and paint another coat, cleaning up isn’t much fun but it’s easier than sanding out a run.

One thing that helped improve my paintwork was a larger capacity air tank, those sprayers will eat up a lot of air very quickly. My old compressor couldn’t keep up and the pressure would drop and that effects how the paint is atomized. I’ve also switched to a Devilbiss, I can see why they charge so much for one because the quality is great. You won’t need the highest quality tools to do a good job as it’s mostly down to technique, all though the compressor needs to be able to support the requirements of the HVLP sprayer

The biggest secret to painting, the prep work. My method is to use 800 grit on the bare metal to give the paint a surface to adhere to. After that I’ll wipe it down with mineral spirits and let it dry a minute or two before painting. After each coat I’ll wet sand with 1200 or 1500 grit and give it a wipe with a dry towel, degreaser isn’t necessary in between costs but make sure the surface is clear of any dust or debris.

That’s how I do it, it isn’t perfect but it works pretty good for me. I’ll leave my final thoughts on lining and clear coat, other will have differing opinions on “what’s best”, but truth is it didn’t really matter how it’s done. I do all the lining first then clear coat/varnish, it gives the lining a little extra protection and the clear coat I use protects against UV sunlight so hopefully it won’t fade as much over time. Probably the preferred method for most is clear/varnish first then doing all the lining

Didn’t mean to write a novel but wanted to give out as much advice as I could, the build is looking good so far and we’re all looking forward to the updates in the future.

Hi all, well I've finished the gloss on the front wheels now, going to leave for a couple of weeks to harden off before I start the lining
Pleased with the results, defiantly got better with practice, Thanks for all your advice.

Hi all,
Well Kit 2 (Front Axle assembly) arrived today, spent the afternoon checking and cleaning up parts and trying different parts together as you do.
Found an issue with the wheel retaining collar pins, The holes in the collars and the axle are 8mm dia but the pins are 6mm, I've Emailed Will for advice.
Parts all laid out for checking off, Must say impressed with quality of parts and machining.

I drilled a small hole in the rear of the smokebox bracket and fitted a grease nipple to lub the perch spindle

Hi all, Cleaned all the parts up ready for priming, Drilled a hole in the Perch bracket for a grease nipple, Thanks for the advice on this.
I've filled and sanded the axle, My choice but I wanted it with a smooth finish.

Will has sorted my wheel collar pin issue, I was sent the pins for the Agricultural, He is sending me the correct pins with my next kit.
He did offer to send by return but as I'm not going to need them, happy for them to be sent with the next kit.
Must say impressed with customer service.

Had to machine the spring bearing pads, whilst the spring did just fit in the slot it was tight and with paint it would not, so machined 0.75mm from each side for a better fit.

Hi All

More progress, started to paint the wheels, started with the Gold centre part and the rivet heads, also painting the axle and perch bracket, first top coat done.

Hi all, Lots of progress over the last couple of weeks, mostly painting!!, Wheels are done apart from centre boss needs a red and Gold line adding.

Axle and perch bracket done, axle painted and lined, happy with results to date, Painting is getting better with more practice.
Must say thanks to you all for your help and encouragement.
Third kit arrived at beginning of week, started to assemble, found an issue with the copper rivets,
The thread is too short, did not need to drive in almost fell in the holes!!, As I did not dry run, didn't find this out!!, so had to assemble with some M6 bolts.
Not really an issue will die down the copper rivets tomorrow and swap the bolts out.

Those wheels look great !!  I keep looking at mine, which are ready for topcoat, but keep putting it off