My Burrell new build

Hi all, hows everyone doing?
Got a question for you, is anyone still waiting for Kit 10?
The last 2 kits I have had, has been Kit 11 & 11B. I haven't received Kit 10 yet.
Can anyone help?


Charlie

Hi Charlie,

Same here. have received 11a and 11b also but no 10. Must be when they are in production.


Phil

Hi Charlie,
                I'm in the same position. Apparently there is a design update from the brass ones now to be made in steel.
Ive had kits 11 and b and the boiler. So thats about it. I was hoping it may be pretty much finished this year, but am not optimistic.  We'll see.
      Mike

I talked to STW today on this...the design is done and the kit 10 is in production expected available next month.

Any indication what part of the month?
Mike

Hi all, thanks for your replies. Seems I'm not the only one waiting for Kit 10!
Spoke to STW yesterday, and was told the same as you, Kit 10 will be sent out next month.
Ive got lots of painting to complete, so plity to do and now can start mt cylinder block construction in between waiting for paint to dry.

Charlie

Hi all, just tried to do some lining, not easy, is it!!!!
I brought one of those lining pens, got paint everywhere, not as easy as they make it look
I've just ordered some Finesse Lining tape and lining brushes. Hopefully that will do the job.
Can anyone advise me on the distance between the lines should be? I've painted a black line round the edge of hornplates, what is appx gap to leave between the black and the next line.
Hope that makes sense!

Charlie

I am assuming, that if you are looking for true scale, you would need to search out a full size burrell, measure the lines and divide by 6. Unless I'm wrong.
Mike

Hi Mike, Im just asking what others have done, its hard to see from pics.

Charlie

I had the same dilemma, but have now decided to do no lining. Im not too good on paint anyway, so i know that the lining would be catastrophic for me.😢

I'm with you mike.An alternative to paint lining is waterside transfers...iv used them before on my Allchin wheels. They turn out real well and once you put a coat o varnish on they are fine.

Hi Charlie,I used Finesse lining tape it is easy to use and great results can be gained,once dry all you may need to do is touch any overspills with a small brush.
Have a look at my build page in owners Photos It under "Re: 2" Build "Hephaestus""
I got my tape from Craftmaster ,but it is available on fleabay as well.
Steve H

Hi Steve, I have now ordered some from Craftmaster Paints, asso some small brushes to suite tape.
Wonder if you can help with another problem.
I have been building my cylinder block. I'm having a problem with my valve rod. The rod has two different lengths of threads on either end, can you tell me which end screws to the buckle? I can only get the short end to screw in, which doesnt leave any room for locking nut.

Charlie

I guess the process for the lining is you put your line colour down first....cover with lining tape the your surrounding colour...once you remove the tape you have your stripe ?

No that's not what happens!.. the lining tape has a removable mid section, which is the line You want, so apply the tape, pull out the line section, apply the paint, then remove the other sections of the tape... hay presto, You're left with a painted line...on top of the base colour of the bit you're lining!!...

Tapes can be purchased with different thicknesses of lines & multiple lines....They are very useful for straight lines, but become limited when You want to go round tight corners!

Regards,
Tony

Tony King wrote:No that's not what happens!.. the lining tape has a removable mid section, which is the line You want, so apply the tape, pull out the line section, apply the paint, then remove the other sections of the tape... hay presto, You're left with a painted line...on top of the base colour of the bit you're lining!!...

Tapes can be purchased with different thicknesses of lines & multiple lines....They are very useful for straight lines, but become limited when You want to go round tight corners!

Regards,
Tony

Well well well, you learn something new everyday I always wondered how they worked

Hi Charlie,
With regards to your valve rod, how much thread do you have? You dont need too much thread. You push the rod through side of the valve chest, fit the nut, and there should still be enough thread to screw intothe side of the buckle, then tighten the nut against the side of the buckle to lock it in place. I guess if you cant do this, then i reckon its a call to STW.

Mike

Hi Mike
Thanks for your reply.
If I put the buckle on the rod, without the nut, it screws on till it it flush with the buckle. With the nut, the buckle screws on about half way though, is that what is meant to?

Hi steve,
Thanks for phoning this morning. It was nice to talk to you. I have looked at your thread, and when I get my lining tape, hopefully it will be easier than using that bl***y pen!

Thanks again, will be looking forward to seeing your finished engine.

Charlie

Hi charlie,
                 You should put the nut all the way along the thread, onve the rod is in the casing, then screw rod into the buckle so its just about showing and then tighten the nut against the buckle,  once you are sppy with the sy its seated in the housing. Well thats how i have mine, which seems the only logical way to me.
        Mike

Mike, how far do the buckle screw on the rod with the nut on? With the nut on mine, it only goes about half way though the buckle.

Just to be sure, mine is already assembled and bolted with the cover.just in case the rod is the wrong way round. The other end of the rod that is not fitted to the valve but facing the rear of the engine, mine has around 13mm of thread. Let me know if you want me to strip mine to check the valve end.
Mike

Thanks Mike, I'll measure the thread and get back to you.
Don't want you take yours apart.
I will probably phone STW, see what they say.

Either way, im happy to take it apart, its no big deal.
Mike

Hi Mike, thanks for your help with my valve rod.
I have now measured the threads, the shorter of the two, must go into the valve chest, as the 13mm end, as you have said, is still showing.
I have now assembled the valve with the short end in the chest.
Cylinder Block now complete till I get more kits.

Back to painting again. I'm going to rub the hornplates back to undercoat and start again from there.
I wasnt happen with the lining I had done.

Charlie