2" Burrell starting out
+2
lynnr
Tom2015
6 posters
Page 1 of 1
2" Burrell starting out
Hi there I will be starting my 2" Burrell kits in the next few weeks purchasing kits 1-8 has anyone got any tips for my build suggestions and also what paint to use and were? I'm thinking of painting as I build to save time would this be a good idea? Any tips or suggestions welcome many thanks tom
Tom2015- Number of posts : 35
Age : 30
Location : Cornwall
Registration date : 2015-01-11
Re: 2" Burrell starting out
Craftmaster paints are the de facto. Colours up to you as its your engine. Lighter colours work well on smaller engines to highlight the detail.
I built as I went but always dry fit everything before painting. I built in kit assemblies and painted each kit. Then put together very very very carefully!
I built as I went but always dry fit everything before painting. I built in kit assemblies and painted each kit. Then put together very very very carefully!
lynnr- Number of posts : 3242
Age : 55
Location : Highland, 4inch showman
Registration date : 2010-08-06
Re: 2" Burrell starting out
Thanks for the reply as for painting what items need heat proof paint and what can I get away with etch priming and using normal paint? I was certainly going to trail fit then spray parts but things like the tender I will spray once that kit is complete and wrap up for safe keeping until I receive my boiler would you etch prime the smoke box etc also or do I need a special primer for that? This is my first engine so any help is greatly received and I expect many questions will be asked many thanks tom:D
Tom2015- Number of posts : 35
Age : 30
Location : Cornwall
Registration date : 2015-01-11
Re: 2" Burrell starting out
Tom
As you look at each kit you have to work out if the paint finish is going to be damaged by the fitting of subsequent kits, some things such as bolt heads and exposed nuts are better finished after you have attacked them with a spanner.
Good luck
Mike
As you look at each kit you have to work out if the paint finish is going to be damaged by the fitting of subsequent kits, some things such as bolt heads and exposed nuts are better finished after you have attacked them with a spanner.
Good luck
Mike
mikero- Number of posts : 261
Location : Brighton
Registration date : 2011-07-19
Re: 2" Burrell starting out
Hi Tom,
I think the only parts that require high temperature paint are the smoke box & chimney & fire doors at the other end of the boiler. Generally, the high temp paint goes straight onto the bear metal & requires heat to "cure" it! As always all surfaces to be painted should be clean & free of oil grease etc!!
A lot of builders also use high temp paint on the complete boiler assembly but believe it or not, the outside surface doesn't get that hot!! Also traditional to do the lower part of the horn plates in black, but again, you don't need it to be high temp paint!
Your boiler is copper, & most high temp paints will stick to it very well with out the special primers that would normally be required.
This is advice from someone who hasn't lit a fire in his engines yet
You will have realised there's a lot of expertise on this forum, as fellow STW builders are oftern people who drive the full size "stuff"!!
They are very happy to pass on information & experiences they have "gleaned" from years of working with steam!
Fire away with any questions you have, there'll always be some one else who will benefit from the answers you get!!
Enjoy your build, it's probably the most "addictive" thing you'll have done to date!!
Regards,
Tony
I think the only parts that require high temperature paint are the smoke box & chimney & fire doors at the other end of the boiler. Generally, the high temp paint goes straight onto the bear metal & requires heat to "cure" it! As always all surfaces to be painted should be clean & free of oil grease etc!!
A lot of builders also use high temp paint on the complete boiler assembly but believe it or not, the outside surface doesn't get that hot!! Also traditional to do the lower part of the horn plates in black, but again, you don't need it to be high temp paint!
Your boiler is copper, & most high temp paints will stick to it very well with out the special primers that would normally be required.
This is advice from someone who hasn't lit a fire in his engines yet
You will have realised there's a lot of expertise on this forum, as fellow STW builders are oftern people who drive the full size "stuff"!!
They are very happy to pass on information & experiences they have "gleaned" from years of working with steam!
Fire away with any questions you have, there'll always be some one else who will benefit from the answers you get!!
Enjoy your build, it's probably the most "addictive" thing you'll have done to date!!
Regards,
Tony
Tony King- Number of posts : 856
Age : 68
Location : scotland
Registration date : 2008-10-31
Re: 2" Burrell starting out
It's good to trawl thro' the previous post for both the 2" and the 4" builds,because you can almost guarentee that somebody would have asked all the questions you want answering at some time.
And it is also a great way to see what pitfalls you may come across,but being just under a Year into my 2" build I will certainly say you will enjoy the ride.
And they all seem a friendly bunch on here.
And if I or anybody else can give you any help you just need to shout.
Drop me a PM if you want to speak
Steve H
And it is also a great way to see what pitfalls you may come across,but being just under a Year into my 2" build I will certainly say you will enjoy the ride.
And they all seem a friendly bunch on here.
And if I or anybody else can give you any help you just need to shout.
Drop me a PM if you want to speak
Steve H
Steve H- Number of posts : 189
Location : Wellingborough,Northants
Registration date : 2014-03-07
Re: 2" Burrell starting out
Thank you all has anyone got any close up good pictures of painted wheels and tender once lined?
Tom2015- Number of posts : 35
Age : 30
Location : Cornwall
Registration date : 2015-01-11
Re: 2" Burrell starting out
Hi Tom, Craftmaster paint is the paint to use. It does appear to be expensive, but the quality shows through. One bit of advice when painting your engine, think about how thick the paint goes on. Some of the tolerances are quite fine and you may find that a bit of paint may have to come off in places. I certainly found this when I repainted my engine a couple of years ago. Hope this helps. Tony
TonyT- Number of posts : 134
Age : 56
Location : Truro,Cornwall. (2" Burrell)
Registration date : 2008-06-17
Re: 2" Burrell starting out
Hi guys what so I seal the water tank with and does the inside of the tender need to be heat proof paint or will ordinary satin black car paint do? Many thanks tom
Tom2015- Number of posts : 35
Age : 30
Location : Cornwall
Registration date : 2015-01-11
Re: 2" Burrell starting out
Hi Tom, I guess you meant to say" what do I seal the water tank with". First time round for me, I used Isoflex, but I didn't get it right so rust showed through after a few years. Second time, I used the POR stuff and that seems to have done the job. As for tender, normal paint will be fine as it doesn't get that hot. Tony
TonyT- Number of posts : 134
Age : 56
Location : Truro,Cornwall. (2" Burrell)
Registration date : 2008-06-17
Similar topics
» Just starting out
» just saving to start my build
» Just starting out
» just starting
» just starting
» just saving to start my build
» Just starting out
» just starting
» just starting
Page 1 of 1
Permissions in this forum:
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
|
|