Kit 23 diff

Hi all, I was gonna put the first cog on the axle today but it was very tight to slide on, is there any ideas what people has done to get it on,

Hi I am at the same stage spent yesterday fitting the planet wheels and checking the number of packing spacers needed on the inner bevel. Everything now turns smoothly on the bench. I have not attempted to fit the inner bevel to the axle as yet as I am waiting for the outer bevel thrust washers to be supplied. But will be interested to know what suggestions there are on getting the bevel onto the axle.

Best wishes

Ian

Hi Mike,

Up end the Axle with a piece of hardwood on the bottom, put the key in the axle and fit the inner diff bevel over it. Then bang the axle on the hardwood and the weight of the gear itself dropped it down over. If you mark the axle with a permanent marker pen to give you a guide as to how far it needs to go down this will make it a bit easier.

Not saying this is the perfect way, but it worked for me. When it comes time to put the right hand rear wheel on, you might find you need to hammer the axle back out a notch from the left so when the retaining collar pin goes in, it clears the cast letters on the wheel hub then knock it back through again from the right hand side.

Rick

Hi rick that's great thanx for that I wil give it another go tomorrow evening and c how it goes, thanx again
Mike

Mike:
I had a few mods to the diff to keep it within the overall axle length. This is pasted from my build thread: Frederck SRL(S):
"The first drive bevel on the diff has a raised boss next to the hornplate bearing. This displaces the diff too far over to the left. I therefore ground this boss down by about 4 mm to give more length for the rest of the diff on the axle. I also found some specks of weld splatter on the bevel gear teeth which were ground off, as they were forcing the gears apart. The second shaft gear now lines up perfectly with the final drive gear, with this first bevel drive shifted to the right, so allowing the final drive casting to fit closer to the hornplate.

The second bevel gear needed one narrow shim and the two washers. This then ended up spot on for the rebate on the axle for the driven wheel. I found that the left hand wheel retaining collar needed a bit taking off in the lathe to allow the pin to line up easily. After all this the diff works OK, better on one side than the other, being a bit lumpy on the left, but satisfactory (especially as nothing is oiled or greased up at this stage)."

Tim

Do not get over worried about the diff being noise. I have done nothing except what the instructions say and when driving around i could not hear any noise from the diff. Even when doing a U turn at the end of the street. Only time it clicks is when the pins are removed and the winch drum is rotating. The space between the gear teath is as high pressures picture and you could stick a stick in the gap.

Also, I found the tightness of the inner bevel on the axle was not between the bore and the axle but the keyways. It seems that any keyways where there are two at 90 degrees to each other the slots in the shaft never match perfectly to the slots in the component bore. I found that I always have to choose one of the keyway sides in the component bore and carefully file it until the part slides smoothly onto the axle with the keyways in. You do not want these parts fitting that tight that you have to hammer them along the shaft or you may end up with thing seizing as the engine expands when it is warm if you have no clearances.

I suspect the reason for this is to do with the set up of the parts for cutting the keyways. One part probably done in-house (the shaft) the other (gear) possibly done externally.

I can also confirm that the bevel and hub were very tight in the bore and keyways. I did what Brian did and chose one of the keys and filed it on one side till it fitted but Andy ( The Coleman) spent at least two hours on the floor of my garage with several sheets of wet and dry going at the axle and bore till they slid on easily, I was about to launch it out of the door when he turned up!!! An easier way to get the same effect is to get a scotch bright wheel for a drill and use that inside the bore to take it out till it fits, looks like a flap wheel but is made from scotch bright.

I can also confirm that despite quite a lot of noise after assembly once greased and now running I have never heard any noise from the diff, havent tried just using the winch though.

tractor mike wrote:Hi all, I was gonna put the first cog on the axle today but it was very tight to slide on, is there any ideas what people has done to get it on,

Not sure how big it is, but if you have a small camping stove, put a disk of 5 or 6 mm steel on the top, and then the cog on top of that. This is the next best thing for fitting bearings to dropping them in hot oil and it works well, should work fine for you too.

I'm frequently fitting bearings at work and at home rebuilding land rover gearboxes so I know it works!

thanx to everybody who has gave me the different suggestions, i have fitted the shaft today by putting it in the engine oil in a pan thanx to ejparrott,
can somebody just answer a question is there anything else what goes on here before the wheel goes on?

Yes!








Winch drum, gear guard for starters. You will have the wheel off quite a number of times yet!
Water pump will also need the wheel off to fit the gear.

is the winch drum in different kit thanx lynn

Yes it is

Mike

Just beware, until you put both your wheels on and try fitting the retaining collars you may find that you have the bevelslightly out of position on the shaft, it may need some fine tuning to get everything to line up - I hope it doesn't for your sake

Good luck with your build.

Brian