Frederick SRL(S)

Kiwiconnection wrote:I thought this section of the forum was for photographs of your build? Its a shame that you don't seem to post any. I for one would love to see how you are progressing.

Will these suffice? Used these for recent DVLA registration. Some hieroglyphics added to the exciter bracket following these pictures (see previous page)





Unfortunately, running an engine tends to preclude you working on new bits for it, but boy-oh-boy that doesn't mean to say there aren't things that need doing to get and keep them going!

Tim

Hey great photos... an engine worthy of the STW stable. Looking good.

Hi Tim,

Just trying to fit the speedo to give me a mileage covered over the year, had a look back at your ramblings and have seen the thread that shows the speedo but it doent give much away, any chance of a couple of shots showing fittings in the various places?

Thanks Kev.

Here you go Kev:

Some tricky photos of the bicycle odometer fitted to Frederick. It is of the remote sensing type, with a clip-on, clip-off display unit.



I sprayed the housing black (it was silver) to make it less conspicuous on the engine.



This shows the acetal plastic mounting block, which is made to be a similar diameter to a bicycle handle bar to accommodate the clip fixing for the display unit. This clip fixing was drilled through the middle and a couple of bolts hold it onto the block which is in turn bolted onto the gear guard.



The sensor is spaced off by about 10 mm and screwed onto the front edge of the gear guard, with the magnet reader just over the edge of the winch drum and the transmitter pointing upwards and backwards towards the display unit (this would normally be fitted on the front forks of the bicycle with a magnet fixed to the wheel spokes). The small circular magnet is Araldited, flush with the surface, just inside the edge of the drum in a hole drilled in the casting casting: neither would get in the way of a winch rope, if fitted. The trip computer is then programmed for the wheel diameter.

Tim

I tired drilling that casting, after 4 broken drill bits I gave up!!! I will just araldite the magnet onto the inside face of the drum and I had kind of got to how you've set it up but hadn't figured out how to fix the sensor and display. Wheel diameter is 2301 by my measuring.

Didn't want to hijack Brian's thread, but I posted this yesterday:

"WRT tight regulators, I thought the problem was with the gland at the chimney end: I eased this off last week and tried it today.  OK to start with and then the regulator became stiff, when the engine got really hot.  I therefore took out the glands both ends, removed the packings and opened the valve rod holes in the block up to 6.2mm, both ends. Opening up to 6.1mm still left the regulator rod pitching a little.  Will probably try it out tomorrow and keep you posted".

Down to the shops....


The modification worked well and the regulator behaved itself nicely. Will need to work out the remote linkage arrangements to get a more relaxed position for long road runs.  Will see how the new seat arrangements pan out first.

We did a run of 6 miles to Redbourn Museum today with son and grandson on the back.  The engine cruises comfortably between 6-8 mph in high wheel, which we used all the way (no major hills). We have achieved a top speed of 10.3 mph this weekend. We  didn't  use all the water in the tanks to get there and burned half a bunker of coal: a very economical engine.  I need to get some heavy oil for the gears as they are quite noisy at full chat.


Tim

Tim

I don't mind you hijacking my thread, everyone else does

On my regulator I did not remove the chimney so could not open up the front hole but did polish the end of the regulator rod down by 0.05mm by spinning it and using emery cloth. I also opened up the rear gland clamp slightly as seemed to have  some resistance once on the studs. When I put the reamer in the regulator rod hole I did get out what looked like some flakes of burnt folia from either side and there was some staining on the rod too. No problems at Scorton this weekend and we did the pub run Saturday night and spent 12 hours in steam yesterday too by the time we loaded up on the trailer. We were having some time for Danielle, Declan and my dad to have a play on the engine as exhibitors were leaving or  had already left and we so much space to use - the sun was finally out too. The regulator is very smooth to operate now.

For your 6 mile run how long did it take you. did you take extra water in your bowser or did that get sold with the Madeline?

Brian

Brian 
I was able to open up the front regulator hole using a short hand drill, but obviously had to remove the exciter bracket.
The run yesterday was just using the engine's water supply (I had a big container of water in the trailer as reserve of course).  The bowser went with Madeline.  Interestingly, Madeline used a tender full, bowser full and some of the reserve for the same journey and taken twice as long.  Each journey was an hour for the 6 miles.  

Tim

I thought the reserve water supply was going to be carried on the back of Cecily's bike.

Mike 

There you go Tim 10000 viewer!

Cheers Lynn!
Currently working on the dynamos, especially the wiring to the brush gear and the commutators.

Tim

Mike and I were working on the roof for Frederick today when along comes 2 year old Charles Frederick and, quick as a flash, he climbs up the steps through the LH access hole and onto the man (boy) stand.  He sat there for quite while driving the engine, as the photos below show: thank goodness I had cleaned up that area quite well beforehand.



'First check the brakes'



'Open the regulator'




'Notch back when the engine is under way'

Tim

He looks quite at home in there.

He looks the right size to drive it. No need for your extension levers - just take him with you every time you take the engine out

After a very solid three days of working Mike and I (90% Mike) got the roof made for Frederick.  Following from Ian Barker's LSM design SRL(S) I have always wanted to have extensive lift out sections for easy viewing when driving.  It also allows the working engine itself to be seen easily, either during the day time when having a cup of tea and leaning on the roof looking down, or at night, generating with beer outside the beer tent (TBA).

 

With main section removed.  Front wheels visible.



Front section removed.  Virtually no blind spot at the front, can see under the canopy, past generator.  I now have spare roofs for a 3" and 2" showman's engine.



Following Mike's magnum opus I found the fitting of the calico easier than I thought.  For those not of a dress making turn, to cut the calico use the tips of a pair of very sharp scissors to cut along - without snipping and keeping the cloth under tension and level both sides of the cut- as shown in the photo below (tip from Cecily).



The sheet was glued to the roof with PVA, one dilute coat to seal, second thick coat applied with wallpaper paste brush, cloth laid down and second thick coat of PVA poured onto and brushed into the cloth.  The edges were not stuck down at this time.

Once the main covering had dried (as seen in the photo above) the roof edges were left as bare wood to absorb the glue, the calico was trimmed to size and a good fillet of PVA run along next to the excess cloth. The cloth was then worked into this material with finger pressure and the hydraulic lock held it down.  No pegs or clips were needed.  The lift off roof sections have just a 6mm cloth overlap, but this is fully integrated with the wood and will of course be painted.  You obviously need to take into account the overlaps when trimming the lift out roof sections.

Tim

Very impressive Tim, nice bit of wood work!!
Regards,
Tony

Had an enjoyable weekend at Bressingham Gardens Miniature TE Rally - I had painted and lined the Exciter on holiday in Cornwall).  The first day of the rally was a bit frustrating as I was having problems with a sticky regulator and an elusive knock.  So the day was was spent chasing this and taking up some of the wear that had occurred (with valuable help from Mark Harris).  



I was concerned that the compensating gear wasn't working correctly and the winch drum showed wear. On investigation before our holiday, it was found that the bushes for the bevel had worn badly as had the compensating oilite bush in the centre of the diff.  These were replaced and oiled up / greased up heavily: they worked OK at the weekend.  Lubrication of this assembly is very difficult.  I think the best shot is to take a drive pin out and  squirt oil at the back of the diff on the gear next to the horn plates- it should work it's way through the system - worth checking your engine and especially for any tell-tale increased wobble on the winch drum.

Sunday was Charles Frederick's second birthday party.  The engine worked well, but the regulator was not in good order.



The engine and waggon now fit into the recently acquired BV85 box trailer.  With all of the 'stuff' visible in this picture, the laden weight of the trailer is 1680 Kg, which is OK for my Ford Galaxy to tow, albeit with a fuel consumption of 20 MPG.



I am exceedingly pleased with the roof arrangements that Mike made.  The view forwards is scarcely impaired, the visibility of the motion and front wheels is excellent, and the flywheel can easily be turned over by hand (when moving the engine cold via the back hatch opening).  Access to the controls is easy, but I need a longer stiffer rake.  Charles Frederick likes it too, although he gets a prototypical view.

I am in process of replacing the regulator with a stainless steel bedplate and a new simple puck (as per Mark's design).

Hi Tim,

Looking ecellent as to be expected, pity your not a Dorset it would be good to compare engines. I have been tinkering with the regulator also, as per the other post in the DCC section, it has been useable, just still getting an issue with it completely closing, going to try and lap the bedplate before this weekends do. Andy spoke to Steve this last weekend and he inferred there may be a mod issued at some point, I would be very interested to see what your mod consists of, I take it Mark has some input? Some details on here may be of great use to those of us steaming.

Cheers Kev.

Kev, 'Frederick' will be at GDSF on the STW stand.  I hope to get there on the Saturday.  I sat on Mark's engine with the roof in place, and so I can now understand why RL drivers have clean roofs: very challenging to drive...the roof is better left in the caravan awning.

Had a busy couple of days.  Made the regulator puck out of aluminium bronze yesterday.  Challenging stuff to cut (thank heavens for power hacksaws) but not too bad to machine (dry, with high feed rates).  The curved top has no deep significance: it came from a round bar of that diameter.  Awaiting a piece of stainless steel to act as the bed plate for the regulator.



Having seen Mark's drip tray at the weekend, and having had my son harangue me for letting oil drip over the boiler, I made an extended tray from the cylinder to the motion support bracket. It is supported at the back by a grub screw through the bracket; the black colour is from chemically blacking the brass.



With my new trailer set up, I have been keeping the engine in the trailer and backing it down the aluminium ramps to work on it (whilst the weather is decent).  I had forgotten what it was like to have a workshop with space in it!  It certainly makes for a much more comfortable working height and the ramps allow you to stand next to the engine - not so easy with a full width Ifor Williams ramp-door. (Apologies for the finger over the lens - I'll take another picture to replace it later)



Tim

Looking good Tim, may have some bad news for you and your son. You may need a second drip tray after the piston guides. I have oil coming over the sides of the slider and your idea is great (may have to copy that) but oil also comes over the end of the slider, I don't know if you have noticed that yet but if you have a 2nd drip tray you should capture most of your oil from that area (no more telling off from your son).

Enjoy the show.

Dwain

At least it's a start.... A distal drip tray could be a winter project; along with many others!

Tim

Tim

Looking good and good to see your getting organised with the drip tray, I also saw Mark's at Banbury and thought - what a good idea. Could be a winter job up here in Lancashire too.

Regarding your issue of the differential/winding drum I have no t notice anything with mine so far and the miles are certainly racking up. I did take the axle out before my Longridge run to put oil grooves in the axle bushes as I had not done it previously and the oil did not seem to be going down in the large pots. It is now improved and more is going through. The differential boshes and everything all seemed well lubricated at the time and were redone again upon reassembly. I will keep an eye for things there.

Look forward to seeing yours at Dorset and Blackbeard is now going to be on the stand too as a contrast to yours  It will be getting a lift on a low loader from Onslow Park and then it will also be going on to Old Warden in the STW truck. I feel honoured to be asked as it is not quite so shiny as all the showman's engines that have been on the stand. At least it well get a good clean by the STW staff  

Brian

I wouldn't bank on the clean by STW staff!

Tim

Well it will have a certain look if they don't!!!!! It is coming straight from Onslow Park where it will be in steam and wandering around the site all weekend and there are some hills on site.

Tim,

I decided to check my diff a few months ago and found that the inner comp bush was also showing signs of wear and was causing the wheel to rock about 5mm at each extremity when grabbed on the spokes. Took it apart and Andy and I decided it was probably due to my poor fitting, I seem to have an aversion to using locktite!!!  Andys suggested that the larger central bush part BS 42343 should be fixed in the inner diff as it was rotating and had caused the wear which we duly did. However re-reading the instructions last night they make no mention of locktiting anything so I feel that I at least wasnt cutting corners, I wonder what will come back as more engines begin to put some miles down, so far this season I have covered 36 actual miles on the odometer ( Brians probably done that in one weekend!!!) . Havent felt or heard anything odd recently so might have a look when I'm not rallying every weekend!!!!

Also looking at the drip tray idea, really fed up with the oil running off everything as fast as I clean, got the brass just need to cut and bend it to shape. Also need to work out how to try and stop the oilers flinging stuff everywhere, not sure I can do your mod for those.

Useful to know what others find.

Kev.