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Rob's 4" water bowser

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Rob's 4" water bowser  Empty Rob's 4" water bowser

Post  Robfishman Sun 18 Sep 2011, 11:49 pm

Thought I would start the bowser today. Have put the tank together and am now awaiting delivery of the sealer. Hubs and spokes have been primed. Now need the JB Weld and Sealer to arrive to carry on further. Took much longer than we though it would to install all those rivets.

Completed tank - awaiting the sealer to arrive before painting.
Rob's 4" water bowser  6160657716_a583c6519d_z
4"scale water bowser by Robert R&N, on Flickr

Hubs and covers in primer
Rob's 4" water bowser  6160657910_1d17ce342a_z
4" Scale Water Bowser by Robert R&N, on Flickr

Rear wheels are next on the Showmans so more spokes to come. these are the bowser spokes in primer
Rob's 4" water bowser  6160661098_501be4a579_z
4" Scale Water Bowser by Robert R&N, on Flickr

View inside the bowser tank.
Rob's 4" water bowser  6160664306_d72d56ff3b_z
4" Scale Water Bowser by Robert R&N, on Flickr

Tash fitting the hinge..overalls on the chair...she'll get me shot!!
Rob's 4" water bowser  6160127119_33e2e9c6c4_z
4" Scale Water Bowser by Robert R&N, on Flickr

Have managed to get the tyers on the rims tonight which was easier than I thought. I'm sure when the liquid rubber is in the rims it will not be quite so easy!!
Robfishman
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Post  Robfishman Mon 19 Sep 2011, 12:05 am

I should also say i'll be taking it apart again for treating the baffle plates, and to fit the filler section on the inside of the tank. Although I like it on the outside so we will have to review this again at the time.
Robfishman
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Rob's 4" water bowser  Empty Nut's

Post  lynnr Mon 19 Sep 2011, 8:15 am

Just a thought. It makes life much easier with the mounting brackets if you weld the nuts on the inside of the tank. Makes painting easier as you can bolt the brackets on at a later stage.
lynnr
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Post  Robfishman Mon 19 Sep 2011, 12:19 pm

Thanks Lynn

That’s a great Idea, will also make it easier for maintenance and repainting in the future.

Rob
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Post  lynnr Mon 19 Sep 2011, 12:59 pm

Robfishman wrote:Thanks Lynn

That’s a great Idea, will also make it easier for maintenance and repainting in the future.

Rob

Have you had a look at my water cart ramblings. It has most of my observations on it. I did find the brass tap threads needed a lot of redressing to allow a good non jamming rotation to screw it on. Found that a 14tpi thread file done the trick.
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Post  Robfishman Mon 19 Sep 2011, 9:29 pm

I have now...looks like you went at lightning speed as well. Can't see the picures at work as the servers block where they link to but from the words can follow what you are talking about, I'll have a good look at home tonight.

Yes Like you I have some work to do to redress the thread, thanks for the tip have got the bowser tap in the car so I could get the right size as I didn't have a tap that big in the workshop to recut. I guess the heat from welding has distorted it slightly. Got a week off coming up and looking forward to using the tank as practice for the spraying and lining before I start on the engine as in the past I have brush applied with varying results. Very Happy

Robfishman
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Rob's 4" water bowser  Empty 3 1/2 days of fun

Post  lynnr Tue 20 Sep 2011, 8:08 am

Hi Rob

Yes indeed. I did go at it all out for three and a half days. Just waiting for the springs to finish off.
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Post  lynnr Tue 20 Sep 2011, 3:45 pm

Hi Rob

All my published pictures can also be seen at www.pbase.com/uisge
This site is not normally blocked. The site used for the forum is photobucket so normally blocked.
lynnr
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Post  Robfishman Tue 20 Sep 2011, 11:28 pm

Thanks Lynn. We are also awaiting the springs but plenty to do before we need them.

Thanks for the web link, our IT systems have some strange security settings which causes problems at times. Crying or Very sad
Robfishman
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Post  craig@STW Wed 21 Sep 2011, 7:54 am

good new is the springs came back from heat treating yesterday. Mike will get them out to you ASAP Cool
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Post  Robfishman Sun 02 Oct 2011, 10:50 pm

Spent the weekend painting and wheel building. Once my engine colour arrives i'll get the tank in paint.

Will leave the wheels for a few weeks for the paint to harden will then fit the tyres and finish the top coat. Also need to change the brass screws for silver on the hub caps
Rob's 4" water bowser  6204843449_1b05c51f14_m
Water bowser wheel by Robert R&N, on Flickr

Frame now painted and awaiting the springs to be delivered.
Rob's 4" water bowser  6204855771_2b0bc72370_m
Water bowser Frame by Robert R&N, on Flickr
Robfishman
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Post  IanL Mon 03 Oct 2011, 12:06 pm

Rob I notice you primer your hubs and spokes before building, I did not do it until after construction. Will the Araldite bond as well to the primer as the cleaned steel? On my front wheels I did use rust inhibitor on the rim and the end of the spokes where they riveted to the rim only before assembly but not on the hub end. What is the consensus of prime before or after bonding with Araldite?

I still have my right rear wheel to assemble so would be interested to know the answer.

Many thanks

Ian
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Post  Robfishman Mon 03 Oct 2011, 1:15 pm

Morning Ian

On the water bowser I primed everything before construction and this seems to have worked ok (just one coat of celulose based primer). I did a test before final fabrication and I couldn't pull them apart, or pull the paint off which did surprise me. I guled the spoke to the hub, removed the rivits and actually bent the spoke near the rim trying to pull it off.

However when I did the front wheels on the engine I didn’t take the risk. Primed the hubs and covers only where they were not in contact with other metal or the centres where the bearings go (this was good as on the water cart have had to clean the paint back off again to get them in!!), and on the front spokes I cleaned the paint off the main faces on the bench sander to ensure good adhesion.

I'll be doing the same on the back wheels spokes although may mask off the areas in contact to save time sanding.

Rob
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Post  IanL Mon 03 Oct 2011, 1:36 pm

Hi Rob,

Thanks for the feedback seems like a good idea so will probably do the same on my remaining rear wheel. I was concerned about rust in unpainted areas but with so many layers including now 5 top coats on the front wheels any chance of moisture getting in is unlikely. What I learned with the front wheels was to leave the undercoat more than the minimum 24 hrs as recommended on the tin. As the top coat lifted some of the undercoat and I ended up with a satin finish even after 3 top coats, hence why I now have 5 top coats on the front wheels.

Ian
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Post  craig@STW Tue 04 Oct 2011, 7:50 am

have you got the springs yet ???
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Post  Robfishman Tue 04 Oct 2011, 7:56 am

Morning Craig

No not arrived as yet. Do you know when they were sent?
Robfishman
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Post  craig@STW Tue 04 Oct 2011, 8:42 am

at least a week ago, same time as Lynn's !!!

we'll get another pair sent out today and look into whats happened to the others.

at the end of the day, if you end up with two sets you can always bring them back sometime Cool
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Post  Robfishman Tue 04 Oct 2011, 11:10 am

Odd they have not arrived but thanks for putting another set in the post. If two sets arrive will certainly bring the others back up to you.

Also Kit 4 was short of a few of rivet nuts, I emailed Isabel with the number, but I think it was 4nr. If you pick this up in time I’d be grateful if a couple could be sent at the same time.

Many thanks

Rob
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Post  craig@STW Tue 04 Oct 2011, 3:49 pm

oops, only just seen this and the springs have gone off to the post office.

will have to send them tomorrow Cool
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Post  Robfishman Mon 07 Nov 2011, 2:07 pm

Well now the paint has had plenty of time to harden I have assembled the chassis for the last time, although the wheels are still a bit stiff to turn so have got a bit more work to do there.

The lining has still to be done to the wheels, but will do the tank first I think to make sure there are no adjustments to be done first. I'm also not so sure about the black wheels, they are yellow on the engine but think yellow would definitely be wrong.


Rob's 4" water bowser  6277720276_105473448c
The water cart chassis by Robert R&N, on Flickr

Oh yes and I need to change the brass screws in the hub covers to stainless. At the moment I have left the seat on, but remove it at a later date.
Robfishman
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Post  lynnr Mon 07 Nov 2011, 3:25 pm

The steam apprentice seams a bit stuffed.

Looks nice though. Wonder when the first tinsel covered engine will appear.
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Post  Robfishman Fri 23 Dec 2011, 4:44 pm

Tank came back from the welder today, nuts welded so can now get the tank painted and having collected the lining colours from Craftmaster may be even lined over Christmas. Very Happy
Robfishman
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Post  lynnr Sat 24 Dec 2011, 6:37 am

Robfishman wrote:Tank came back from the welder today, nuts welded so can now get the tank painted and having collected the lining colours from Craftmaster may be even lined over Christmas. Very Happy

Wow that took some time Crying or Very sad Glad you have it back now and can finish it off.
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Post  Robfishman Wed 28 Dec 2011, 12:23 pm

Yes, they are very good and so very busy, but as i was in no hurry it was not top of the list. With no other kits delivered to work on over Christmas it was moved to the top of the list. Very Happy

. Tank back together and will be water tested today to check there are no leaks.
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Post  Robfishman Sun 08 Jan 2012, 11:08 am

Bowser now put together as one at last. Still more to do painting wise but getting there. I did put the front and rear cross members on the wrong ends, but this has since been corrected so now the tap is at the back. Also got some bolts to change to stainless. Were taken on the phone so sorry about the quality of these images.


Rob's 4" water bowser  6655499737_b1f100bdbf
Untitled by Robert R&N, on Flickr

Rob's 4" water bowser  6655505661_55a66f9fa0
Untitled by Robert R&N, on Flickr

Rob's 4" water bowser  6655503757_af20f00b52
Untitled by Robert R&N, on Flickr

Robfishman
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