CLACK VAVLE/PUMP HANDLES

JUST GOT SOME 'OVERDUE/FINISHING' PARTS, IN WHICH ARE TWO CLACK VAVLE/PUMP HANDLES. NOW I KNOW WE'VE GONE METRIC, ETC, ETC. SINCE I WENT TO SCHOOL, BUT TWO CLACK VALVES, AND ONE PUMP STILL ADD UP TO THREE I'AM SURE !!!!!!!!!!!!

ANYWAY COMMENTS GUYS !!

STAY OUT THE PUB, OR GET A CALCULATOR !!!

BUNGLE

Hi

you only get two handles one permantly fits on the pump pointing downwards and the other shared between the clack valves as these are not normally shut off.

Keith

Keith

That will be as per the instructions that came with them wont it?

Bungle, In my old job there was a phrase 'RTFI' which relates to reading instructions, I'll let you fill in the missing words !

Too much time in the pub mate

cheers

Al

Hi
I got two .But did think it was ment to be 3 .I can not get to the engine at the mo .
I am shaw it will get sawted out

It's not advisable to have the handles on the clacks permanently as little Johnny can come along and turn them off. This is not a good idea as on the pump side a closed off clack will put a lot of strain on the hornplate as the pump works against an obstruction. It's also useful to file a line into the square shouldered head to indicate their condition i.e. a line at 90 deg to the boiler shows that they are open.

You therefore only need one handle on the water pump and the other can live in the tool box.
Tim

Totally agree with Tim on this one, one engine I know (no names to protect the innocent) left the handle on and 'little Johny' turned it off and when the engine was being driven later & the water pump turned on there was a bang and he was left with a bent hornplate and a mangled waterpump bearing! Water is not in the least squishy so steel bends before water compresses.

HI TIM AND STEVE, YES I HAD ALREADY DECIDED TO LEAVE THEM OFF, MOST FULL SIZE DON'T USE THEM, JUST THOUGHT WE MIGHT GET ONE FOR EACH. I HAVE NOW HAD CHANCE TO LOOK AT THE PAPERWORK WHICH MENTIONS ONLY ONE.

REGARDS
BUNGLE

Bungle ya handsome devil you
Well now THAT made for some interesting reading and have taken notes on this one and yup, I can see where you're all coming from regarding steel bending before water compresses etc.

Hope you're all well. Roll on pay day

LilyJack

LilyJack wrote:Bungle ya handsome devil you


LilyJack

Hi guys
Now that is nice ..BUT what do you call me ????? HUM I have been to the show and at some pics put up your
LilyJack cam pics for you .

They dont really fit is all i've noticed! Or will saying this get me in trouble again!

J

Hi Giys

Yes they do not fit .I did try my big shed hammer but not good. ..Steve says just file out till they fit

I have filed out one to so it push fits the square but found the corners are very close to the edge of the brass and it has started to crack.

hmmmm.

northburrell wrote:I have filed out one to so it push fits the square but found the corners are very close to the edge of the brass and it has started to crack.

hmmmm.

Ho Bugger I will see what I can find out .

hughb wrote:

northburrell wrote:I have filed out one to so it push fits the square but found the corners are very close to the edge of the brass and it has started to crack.

hmmmm.

Ho Bugger I will see what I can find out .

the pump handle could be silver soldered on if they do start to crack but then it's on for good!

I'm not too fussed about the other handle I'll be using it as a spare for the pump as you'll never really need to shut the clacks off and a spanner is the best bet for this.

Hi
Ok I am going to the shop soon ..Thanks for the heads up

Hi Guys,

Not had chance to look at the handles yet but will do my best to tomorrow.

Assuming that they can't be opened out slightly, isn't it an option just to hand file the four flats on each of the stainless steel valve cocks and the water lifter bypass slightly smaller so they fit? This way it would leave sufficient wall thickness on the cast handle. Sounds like as it was lost wax cast they're has been a shrinkage problem.

Dean

Hi Guys

Sorry not been on for a bit . After all the INFO I went for the pins and filed them down.
I did try it on the engine at first but if I sliped then well you know .

So pulled them out and did it in the vice.

I think that this is a better way but what do you guys think??

I'm not at this stage quite yet but I'll comment on this one, is this shrinkage problem with the castings going to be rectified at all?

Regards

LilyJack

Hi Alan,

I've put a set together and really don't think that there is a problem. There is some shrinkage on the handle which makes the square in the handle the same size as the square on the cock. Under normal circumstances we'd ask customers to gently file out the square on the handle a little, the problem with this is it leaves the wall thickness too thin, therefore it is better to file the flats on the cock to suit. That's what i did and it really was a two minute job with no more than a flat file.

Hope that helps.

Dean

Yup, cheers for looking into it for me. Happy with that answer.

Regards,

LilyJack

Hi Lilyjack

As you can see I filed down the vavles .You can try a big hammer but it may not work.

Yes this is the best way to do it.. I threw one of mine away, by opening out the brass casting just made it split at the corners.. i've filed my square on the valve on the pump and got the other one to fit now..

Thanks

Jo

Jo,

Do you need a replacement sending for the one you binned?

Dean

Hi Dean,

If thats not too much trouble that would be good. just to have a spare for the pump really just in case.

I will probably just use a spanner on the clack valves if I need to close them at any point. I have the one on my pump fitted so thats the main one that I need.

I'll be sending back the spare outer diff bevels you sent me to try out over the next week or so i'm just finalising my gears at the moment fitment wise. I ended up using the outer diff that had not had the teeth made smaller. I found that it meshed nicely with my drive gear so I'll be using it..

I'll send you a mail once I have sent them back to you..

Cheers
Jo