Kit 24 - Govenor and Saftey valve

Got mine today - fiddley little lot!

Couple of points - The horizontal bevel and Vertical bevels are in the wrong packages - they are arse about face

My kit didn't contain an oiler (page 3 end of second paragraph) and it's not listed on packaging. Anyone else missing one?

Keep it cool, have fun

Alan

had al look in my box and I have not got one either

kit arrived this morning, no Oiler here either... could do with a magnifying glass too!

Recieved my kit this morning and on checking everything matched the parts list but the oiler shown on the drawings has not been included,

Malcolm

Ok guys - buggered it up already

Followed instructions and countersunk the 3 holes in the Vertical bevel now cant get the M2 x 6csk screws to take up the thread again

Decided it is because the countersink has burred the threads over so need to run a tap through the holes again. Can anyone tell me if the below tap is the right size?

Metric 2.0 x 0.40 course as advertised on maidstone engineerings site

http://shop.maidstone-engineering.co.uk/?mod=product&cat_id=4&product_id=2036

cheers

Alan

Big Al,
call tracy tools, they have every size and style of tap, die, reamer and drills. They have a website but you have to order oer the phone.

On reading through the governor build instructions this morning I noticed that two thirds of the way down page 2 it says screw the governor top [BU22409] through the brass washer BU22441] but there is not a brass washer supplied nor is it listed in the parts and packing list. Has anyone else found this part?

Malcolm

Big Al',

Are they blind holes with the threads? Just asking coz ya could stick the screws in from the "other side" to cut the threads again?

LilyJack

HI GUYS, WE GOT YOUR KIT YESTERDAY, ONLY HAD CHANCE TO OPEN THE BOX AND PEER IN. DOES LOOK LIKE SOME TINY PARTS, FOR MY SAUSAGE FINGERS !!! NOT CHECKED THE PARTS OFF, BUT AS THE OILER SEEMS TO MISSING FROM ALL THE KITS, FROM READING THE ABOVE, NO DOUBT THE GUYS WILL SORT THIS FOR US.

KINDA LOOKING FORWARD TO DOING THIS ONE, AS IT LOOKS LIKE A SIT AT THE BENCH TO PUT THE WHOLE ASSEMBLY TOGETHER TYPE DEAL, MY OLD LEGS SAY THANK YOU FOR THAT !!

HAPPY BUILDING GUYS, AL, THANKS FOR THE HEAD UPS ON YOUR PROB, WE'LL LOOK OUT FOR THAT.

REGARDS
BUNGLE

Lilyjack - No chance - look at the production site and you will see the vertical bevels and 3 holes that thread towards the centre need countersinking

For all others of us. I have an idea you may want to consider if you haven't already countersunk the holes. The problem being the threads are so fine the pressure of the contersunk 'bends' them so you wont get the screws to start. The screws are very fiddly as you will have all found out. I have no choice but to run a tap back through BUT If you screw a small grub screw in the hole first (I found a couple of ones I hadn't used) so that the level of the head is deeper than the countersink depth. When you have used the countersink you may be able to unsrew the grub screw thus re defining the thread. If you cant then keep winding the grub screw in till it comes out in the centre of the bevel and get a tap like me

A thought has just inspired me to consider trying to 'unscrew' the grub screw starting from the inside the bevel to re cut the thread on it's way out. I'll try it tonight. Brilliant idea if it works !!

Alan

Show off, I think that "not so big al" just likes "screwing"

Is it ok/ possible to strip down the saftey valves for painting without adjusting the pressure setting nut?

HI GUYS,
VAPOR, I THINK THATS HOW AL LOST THE WEIGHT !!!!!!!

FORGE, I WAS GOING TO ASK THAT QUESTION TOO, KINDA WORRIED ABOUT ASKING SIMPLE QUESTIONS ANYMORE !!!!!!!! LOL

REGARDS
BUNGLE

Hi Guys

Try using a drill rather than a countersinking tool. Thats all I used and I didn't have any problems with mucking up the threads. The screws are very small and difficult to put in. I'm only used to big screws (in my dreams!) but even I was able to manage them. The thread is M2 coarse which has a 0.4 pitch. We do have a couple of spare taps, so if you do muck them up, ring Isabel and we'll lend one to you. Alternatively send the bits back to us and we'll put the countersinks in.

Just to confirm we (I) did forget to include the oiler for the governor. We'll put it in kit 17 which should be out next week.

You can disassemble the safety valve for polishing, but you will of course need to set it again. Count the threads or measure a distance that you can refer to when re-assembling, but veer on the safe side when you put it back together. Better that the safeties go off at 80psi rather than 150psi on the first steaming! It is also just about possible to leave the adjusting nut alone and pull the lever off, then un-hook the spring, but it's not easy and probably not worth doing.

Regards

Steve

THANKS FOR THAT INFO STEVE.

THATS GREAT

BUNGLE

Grub screw idea failed, couldn't find one small enough. The ones supplied with the horizontal bevel are bigger so no good either

Ah well, Out with a taper !

Getting smaller Al

Hi guys looked in my box and HO yes put it all back humm .I will get to it soon I was just intrested in it .Now I should of know this by now A SMALL box is a lot of work .Love it Thanks for the heads up

Really in the brown stuff this time

Used a drill on the govenor top to countersink the holes and it worked, So don't used a countersink as Steve says, I ran a drill carefully over the vertical bevel holes and manages to get them sorted.

When I screwed on the 3 springs on the bevel first I had to cut them down quite a lot, when I finally fixed them tight and filed the heads down to fit the collar all was fine, used a dremel with little grinding wheel and was chuffed when the collar fitted tight.

Trail fitted the springs to the upper spring collar and similar problem with protruding threads fouling the thread of the govenor top. This means that the length of the screws is critical and very small.

When I tried fitting the lower bevel over the shaft I still had too much thread protruding so decided to clamp it carefully in a vice and run a suitable drill through it. That's when it all went wrong!! Drill caught the thread ends and the bevel was not held tight enough in the vice (didn't want to damage it,)so all came adrift and ripped my balls off. All 3 metal springs are now totally trashed (was gonna say something stronger but I know Isobel reads the site ) balls are locked to springs, so they're no use as well. Only just managed to unscrew the 3 screws I had filed down but they're buggered as well so it will be cap in hand back to STW to beg for more springs and balls.

So pee'd off gonna have a big steak, chips and a few beers !!

Yours

Getting bigger again

Al

Hi guys.

well ye same for me really used a drill to counter sink no problems, cut the screws, put the springs on and fitted the screws tightened it all up and pop, pop,pop the counter sink on the holes has ment that the spring steal has to bend inwards to follow the counter sink. this has split the springs were the screws go and there all scrap now!!!! lots of swear words and head scratching but no way of fixing it...this needs revising i think.. why cant the springs be held by screwing through the brass ring that slides over the top then just filed to the profile of the ring.. yes you will see the screws but it's a better way of fitting them I think..

Steve I think there's going to be lots of us asking for new springs please. I hope they dont all break again tho!!

Hi guys

I've been following this one with interest as I haven't really started the govenor yet,just been fiddling with my balls

What I have managed to do is slide the spring collars over the springs top and bottom without using the screws to hold the springs and everything is pretty tight.

I have started to wonder if it would be possible to build this part up without using the screws and plenty of Loctite to hold it all together as at the end of the day the govenor is more for show than use isn't it ?

Steve,your thoughts please,and anyone else's please

cheer's

Knackered Tony

Ummmm, is the governor not an operational part? As in "SPINS!!!!"???
Just that if it DOES spin, I'd rather use screws than be anywhere near em when they fly off when the loctite gives. I thought the unit was driven by a little drive belt? It'd be interesting to see if it does work or not because it'd be better if it did. Not as in a true governor but at least have it spinning?

LilyJack

Lilyjack,it will spin,but how often was my thought.The govenor on the 2" is an example of the real thing,as in it does not control the revolutions of the engine,but it does add the finishing touches.

I was thinking that I probably wouldn't use it that much,and after read the problems that Big Al and Northburrell have been having,I tend to think more for show than use.

Any other thoughts please

cheer's

Tony

TonyT wrote:Lilyjack,it will spin,but how often was my thought.The govenor on the 2" is an example of the real thing,as in it does not control the revolutions of the engine,but it does add the finishing touches.

Yes guys I think you are right .But only If they are not played with .Lilyjack {snigger}

malcolm wrote:On reading through the governor build instructions this morning I noticed that two thirds of the way down page 2 it says screw the governor top [BU22409] through the brass washer BU22441] but there is not a brass washer supplied nor is it listed in the parts and packing list. Has anyone else found this part?

Malcolm

i would like to hear more on this as the washers were definitely made. don't know how they didn't get into the kit ??? (you can see one on the control model pic below)

well the good new guys is that this kit will go together eventually and yes, we realise how small the parts are, (we had to make them don't forget . a lot of the parts will need a good deal of "finishing" and we thought this was best left to you guys as you all have your own standards that you like to work to

a photo of this kit on the control model for you....

Hi guys.

Well the governor would not have been used for driving around, the governor is used to keep the engine at a constant speed when loads are put on the engine, like when power is being taken of the the fly wheel and running a log saw or running a thresher etc. ~(full size that is)~ so running around with the governor spinning is probably not a good idea and not true to life
all the traction engines i've seen never have it working and is more for show and scale really. I think your right though some loctite will do the job..
as with my post about what loctite can be used for I used it hold my pressure gauge to the wood backing allong with the captive brass threads, I clamped it over night and it wont budge when pressed on very hard i might add.. i think when i get some new springs ill just use loctite or just screw through the brass casing then file off the the head. hell use both why not

I'm looking at a full size roller just know, there not badly priced either at around £42.000 for a fully restored one. traction engines are over £100.000 but i can understand that.. just finding some were to put it is the challange...!

hope your all well.

Jo