First Kit !!!

Hi Richard

I should give Steve or Dean a ring tomorrow, they are joined with a super glue which is especially for rubber. I have found when fitting the tyres to put the joint at the bottom so that when levering the tyre on one isn't straining the joint to much, perhaps you did this and they just got cold & stiff! I'm sure STW will sort you out tomorrow though.
Regards
Steve

Also have a look at my thread for fitting tyres using a large flower pot to "push" them over the rims. Not as daft as it sounds and makes light work of an awkward job.

I have read somewhere that using plastic tie wraps can help keep the tyre in place as you stretch it on.
not tried it myself but it seems a good idea

Kev

Kevster wrote:I have read somewhere that using plastic tie wraps can help keep the tyre in place as you stretch it on.
not tried it myself but it seems a good idea

Kev

This is what I did, start off with 2 in adjacent gaps and then a combination of the other half standing on the tyre and levering we put another zip tie at a time. Takes 8 or 9 until you can finally lever the last bit on but works really well.

Dan wrote:

Kevster wrote:I have read somewhere that using plastic tie wraps can help keep the tyre in place as you stretch it on.
not tried it myself but it seems a good idea

Kev

This is what I did, start off with 2 in adjacent gaps and then a combination of the other half standing on the tyre and levering we put another zip tie at a time. Takes 8 or 9 until you can finally lever the last bit on but works really well.

They need to be a heavy duty type or you may find they snap under the pressure, but yes used this method on the bowser and worked fine. You can buy some that can be released again for reuse, a bit more expensive but may save as you wont need as many.

trye dry fitted after joint being reglued thank to the teem at stw on there quick reply to my email it nices that there are still desent company out there what take pride and time in there product keep up the good work
thanks
richard

hi how do i put pic on here i've uploaded to photobuket then what do i do help
richard

Richard

Instructions are here, if you have them uploaded you just need the BBCode / URL code for the image and copy / paste to the forum text box and you should be away.

https://traction.forumotion.com/t18-how-to-post-picture-simple-uploads-pictures-from-your-hard-drive

I've not used photo bucket so hope these help.

at last got some to work now i've started painting it tell me how much hard work I needs to put in to paint as mine looks like ive plough it with my trator any help on good brushes and what sizes
thank richard

Hi Richard,

off to a great start there, looking good. In regard to you painting question, it really can depend on a lot of things. good brushes do help but if your working with coach enamel speed is key. The paint tends to start to gel quite quickly and there for if you keep painting your brush strokes will remain in the paint surface. before it starts to thicken, (and you will feel it on the end of your brush) the paint should have a little time to settle and flatten.

Purdy brushes are some of the best around, but the do cost ££££
I have used Harris brushes and they are ok, reasonably priced and available from B+Q/Homebase

Have you thought about spraying your model? I have been using both techniques on mine, I have built up the undercoat with a brush to get a nice thick base, and then applied the top coat with my gun, this leaves a really deep and even painted surface.

experiment, and see how you get on. Decent painting weather is just around the corner

hi Weston
thanks for help yes big part will spray and small parts but like you i will brushe the primer and undercoat then spray top coat but had some fish eyes on paint as need fillter on air line
thanks
richard

Also remember to blow down the compressor after each session. I open the drain at full pressure and rock the tank back and forward to make sure all the water is removed. You will be surprised!

Some thing that you might find of use if your doing a lot of brush painting is a brush mate. Will cost you a bit now but what it will save in time as well as the cost of using white sprit is ten fold iv not cleaned a brush out for years unless i'm changing colour.

http://www.brushmate.co.uk/

And if your using paper towel to wipe down along with clean up bin it and get a box of proper paint shop wipes this will sort out just about all your bits in your paint there and then and don't for get pre-wipe this will clear up all your fish i problems over night all remember to wipe on with one clothe and wipe of with another.

Iv been very lucky to sit to and watch a pro painter whos is painting a good mate of mines full size Fowler B6 rear wheels 7'4" OD and he can do that both side in about 30 mins with a 4" brush its speed get it on quick and leave it don't go back over any thing or it will drag then its start all over agine.

As for brush's i cant stand any of the normal stuff i like the thin bodied art brushes for models got under the spoke and rim easyer for one with out dumping loads of pint that then you have to try and remove before it runs and when storing brushes i run wheels bearing grease in to them to keep them soft and in shape and that trick i got from a boat painter.

Look at my paint and see what you think ill leave you a link below


My build is here

https://s249.photobucket.com/albums/gg203/hudmut/My%20little%20secret/?start=all