KIT 4 (REAR WHEEL)

Hello all,

I thought i'd post a few pics of my rear wheel that i have started putting together.

A couple of things I found is the rivet bolts are a really tight fit unlike the bolts on the front wheels.
This is a benefit in a way as they wont move when you fit the nuts however getting the things through the holes in the first place took some doing and careful thought. I'll explain further.

You will find you can use a soft ended hammer to knock the rivets into the end of the spokes for one side of the wheel however i found it much easier and quicker to force them through with a vice as shown in the attached photos.

The rivets for the other side of the wheel actually go through the rim before the spoke. make sure you don't put them through the spoke first or they will be the wrong way around. in other words all the bolt heads face the same way on all the spokes. (I hope that made sense).

I found that knocking the bolts through with a hammer on the rim was not a good idea as the metal filler on the T-ring may break away.
instead I have used the same technique as with the vice but I am using a sash cramp instead. works a treat.

Of course you could just widen the holes but this would make tightening the nuts more difficult.

I also numbered off all the spokes so I knew which ones fitted in which slot once i had fully balanced the wheel.

Hi sonick45

Thanks for the information. There is an advantage of running behind everyone else. You get so many helpful hints and tips

and you get to look at their bums !!!! oh sorry, that's a different "running behind everyone else"

Finished construction today. Now the painting begins....

Look good and very heavy!

Can someone get a picture with a human in the picture to get an idea of true scale?

don't think we have any humans at STW

craig@STW wrote:don't think we have any humans at STW

Oh sorry.. Superhuman then

well no ..... do you remember the freak shows of the old days

we have midgets, hairy people, one eyed people, living dead and the incredible grunting man !!!!!

craig@STW wrote:well no ..... do you remember the freak shows of the old days

we have midgets, hairy people, one eyed people, living dead and the incredible grunting man !!!!!

Midgets ??? if you mean Dean why dont you say so!!

I'll leave it to the individuals to decide what category they fall into

Oiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii,

Less of the midget jokes please, else a banning order might be put in place because i feel a 'little' offended.

If this abuse continues i may have to go back to my original job as a maths teacher to midgets.........cos i always felt it was important to make the little things count!

Anyway i'm not a midget, i'm a dwarf....what's the difference i hear you ask.....................very little!!

Funnily enough i heard a dwarf was pick pocketed in Daventry the other day.........can't believe any one would stoop so low!

I'm here all week. lol

Dean

lynnr wrote:Look good and very heavy!

Can someone get a picture with a human in the picture to get an idea of true scale?

lynnr just for you.....
The wheel is 29" across.

The wheel is looking wheely good.

I have been working on my front wheels. Started to pinstrip them. Using 1shot paint and Excaliber pinstriping brush. Need to get some thinners to make the paint flow a bit easier. Lost the light so no pictures tonight. Will try tomorrow.

Looking good on the wheel there, just wondered how you went about cleaning it before painting, what did you do on the inside of the rim? And did you go at the spokes with a flap wheel? Still trying to work up the enthusiasm, not quite got all the rivets in the belly tank yet!!!

Regards Kevyn.

Still along way to go. Red Oxide to keep the rust away. i'll start undercoating over the next few weeks.

I use tack cloths which i buy off ebay to clean before painting and they have been a great help in collecting the crap from within the rim which is hard to reach. I also use a Dyson hoover with a small brush attachment to suck up the majority of the dust from within the rim.

I used a flap wheel in a drill for the fronts but have now moved onto a small angle grinder with a 40 grit sanding disc in it. works much better and is faster at the job.

I used this on all the spokes but didn't go mad trying to remove all the teflon coating from the steel as it's not necessary.

I've still to finish my belly tank. The 100's of nuts did my head right in and it's sitting there waiting to be painted.

Hi Nick

Yes an angle grinder with ali-oxide grit pads are much better and quicker than a flap wheel also the grinder is made for the angular torsion imposed where a hand drill is made for perpendicular forces and you soon kill bearings.

Having landrovers as your transport also equates to angle grinder and hot glue stick (known as a welder) are essential items.

Can not get going at the wheel tomorrow as need to take a rear hub apart on the freelander as a bearing is running

Can i add a bit in here about wheel building ?

Iv fond that useing a 240v car polisher or variable speed grinder with flap wheel disk's a great help as you can slow it down a lot so shapeing things with out taking to much metal of is easy and because you can slow the grinder down you can then fit a 9 inch flap dics to the grinder and use that to get to the inside of the t-rings witch is a great help. Iv not used a real grinder at all yet on my engine but fitting a 110v plug to a 240v grinder would do the same trick then just run of a transformer.

As for spokes i use the grinder for the out side and faces then a b&d power file to but a radius on the spoke edge followed up with 120 grit on a DA to blend it al in. with this set up it takes moments to do a spoke and rim.

Hope this is of some use as the wheels was one thing i did not want to do after building my 2" fowler ones but it was deady easy in the end with no fuss at all.

just a quick tip when you doing the rivets for the spokes on the wheels if you put them in the freezer it shrinks them a very tiny amount which makes them knock in easyer with out the risk of damaging anything i was told this by the father in law who works for a very well known plane parts enginerring firm that makes planes and they do it with the plane wing rivets i hope it helps you all lloyd

Thanks for the tips, freezer and vice at the ready!!

Before I get that far though can I ask how you filled and finished between the brake band and rim and between the rim and section the spokes fit on to. I suspect this could be a water trap in the future and cause a problem if left unfilled. Have a few ideas and wonder what you found worked the best.

Many thanks

Rob