Lock Down 3 "Still Stuck at home"

Ok how to start with this one ?
25th March 2020, travel restrictions were in place so I had to have the next toy box filler delivered on a pallet.
The first 14 kits as they arrived !
These were then put in to the spare room for a while as the collection continued to grow at the normal monthly ish rate.



It was around the 21st December when this arrived, and signaled the start of the build.
After all I had no chance of getting it up stairs with the rest of the parts.



Uncle Boris had said that we could not get together over Christmas,
so in need of something to occupy myself with on Christmas day, I grabbed kit 1.
Uncle Boris was not spoiling my Christmas, no way !!



Debur all the spokes, but first mark them up as type 2 or 3 by hard stamping them on the end that goes inside the hub.



Next debur and clean the rims, removing the rubber that had found its way onto the outside vertical edge of the rims



Loose fit the spokes on to one side of the wheel first.



Then fit the rest of the spokes to the other side of the hub.
Once together evenly tightening them a little at a time gets the job done.



One down, one to go.



That was enough for christmas day, time for "The Wizard Of Ozz" and the "Great Escape"

Boxing day and its déjà vu for me.
Started the same as the fronts by deburring and hard stamping each of the 5 variants of spoke in a rear wheel.



The hubs looked like they had partied in the rain !



They were no match for the sandblaster.



Put all the parts together the same as for the fronts, then again gradually tighten the screws and rivets a little at a time.



After finishing the second rear wheel (26th) it was another helping of Christmas TV  "Home Alone" and "Die Hard"
I was really enjoying that Christmas until the shuddering thought that I still needed to paint them.
Don't know if I have mentioned it before but I don't like painting wheels.
That's enough for today folks. keep building.
Simon C

Bank Holiday Monday, and after a long night partying alone, I had a hangover to workout.
When the boiler arrived just before the non-festivities, it was a very cold and damp evening so the boiler sweat terribly.
The result of its cold sweat was that I could not work on it there and then, and hence a rust film had begun to form on the surface
by the time I got to it 7 days later.



Clearly I had no chance of getting it into the sandblaster at North of 80kg, so an alternative method was needed.
Bring on the cup brush in the angle grinder, good job it wasn't ticklish.
After running a tap through all of the holes first and then fitting sacrificial screws and plugs in them all, the other important areas get the masking tape treatment.
Taking a good photo of the boilerplate at this point is worthwhile as it will become evermore difficult to read as the build progresses.



With the boiler standing on the smokebox end I surrounded it with heaters to warm the steel before applying paint.
Then after spraying the heaters were back on to dry it out, it made the garage real cozy !



After 2 primer 4 under and 4 top coats it got stuck in the corner out the way with a blanket thrown over it and a low wattage heater underneath.
Next job the smokebox, usual start deburr and dry fit.



Front door and Chimney base test



The chimney.



After a successful dry fit These parts get a good blacking



I use satin black stove paint on this end as it can get serious hot and stove paint is good for over 600c. (claim)
I have used this in the past with good success, that is to say it hasn't burnt off as yet, unlike the engine enamel used on the name ring.
That's enough for this episode.
Simon C

Smokebox paint good for over 600c. Challenge accepted! ;-)

Smokebox paint good for over 600c. Challenge accepted! ;-)

Yes I agree Lynn but it says it on the tin ! so who am I to argue.
I even took 50c off its capability to give it a fighting chance.  
Joking aside I used it on the showmans and it covers nice and has not burnt off so far.

It was the end of March before I got another chance at progressing the build due to work commitments.
Next on the build list was the front axle.
Not a great deal to do on this as the axle, perch and fork are all castings.
If it has a cast finish then leave it a cast finish.
A quick clean in the sand blaster after making some covers to protect the bearing surfaces from the blast media, and it was off to paint.



Time for the color.
Sorry readers it's going to be another green one.



With the front end complete it was time to wash some nuts and rivets for the next part of the build.
I tip the rivets and there nuts into a jam jar with some cellulose thinners then gently shake the jar to remove all the oil, after a good slosh retrieving them with a magnet.



After deburring what seems like a million holes, it's time to start putting things together before getting sore fingers putting all those pesky rivets and nuts together.



I used a couple of screwdrivers to align the holes in the plates before putting all of the rivets in loosely.



Once all the rivets are in then they can all be tightened a little at a time.
I find it absolutely amazing how they manage to get all the holes to line up especially on the curved sections.
After North of 150 holes that have the rivets in them, I had to use the drill on just one of them.



Time for the messy bit.
Isoflex is my weapon of choice these days.
I have tried Por15 in the past with disastrous results as it came away in sheets.
The underside and flanges of the manstand get fully and liberally painted before fitting.



Next was the inside of the waterbox, making sure of a good covering around the joints.



Once the manstand was fitted, I used a cutdown brush through the access cover to seal the joint between the underside of the manstand and the tender sides.
With that job put off to one side to dry fully, it was off to the oven for this lot.



That will do for today folks
Happy building.
Simon C

OK with the hot bits now cool and the sticky bits dry its colour time.




That done, the bulk of the furniture can go on the tender while being extra careful not to scratch it !




With the tender completed and put in storage, the next subassembly to get built is the horn plates.
Another million holes to de-bur followed by a quick rub down to remove a light coating of rust.



That's better !!



After fitting all the dummy rivets and the belly tank brackets, all they need now is paint.



Next on the list was the spectacle plates.
The front plate, that's the one on the left did not require any alterations to make it fit.
The rear was a different story as it required a little fettling around the right hand side to give the reach rod the necessary clearance.



Crankshaft bearing housings, along with the second shaft and axle tubes next.
On the dry fit up I found that the fillet radius on the flange ends of the axle shaft fouled the bolt heads.
The cure was to grind away enough of the fillet to allow the bolt to turn freely.
The large crankshaft bearing housing needed a reasonable amount taking off the sides so that it fit between the spectacle plates.
I would always recommend a full dry fit of all subassemblies before painting, as it isn't funny grinding fresh paint off later.



Confession time !!
Being a lazy sod I don't fill or mask the threaded holes before painting if I can help it.
This laziness does require me to run a tap or drill through all holes after painting.
Needles to say I do spend a lot of time turning a tap wrench.



The masking required on this lot was fiddly and long winded.



Time to put it all back together.




That's enough for now
Happy building folks !
Simon C

Next lump in the build is the belly tank.
After the 1 million rivet and other holes in the tender it was time to debur the next 2 million (400+ rivets) around the belly tank.
Some of the panels are fabricated and then welded, mainly at the corners so they took a little extra time to cleanup.
Before clean up.


And after, ready for assembly.



The top plate had a light rust layer on it unlike all the other plates, I decided that Daventry rust must just be selective



Just like that and it is all together, It took around 2 hours to put all the rivets in and I was well happy to finish them.
It still amazes me how they manage to make all those holes line up on a curved surface, with only 3 that needed drilling out.



Time for round 1 of the sealing process. Isoflex is the weapon of choice again.
I have left a half inch border at each end that will get covered when the end plates are fitted.



So whilst that drys might as well move on with the toolbox.



After the rubdown it and several other parts gets a good sandblasting, this gives the powder a good surface key.



Approximately 1 hour later and they are all ready for assembly.
No masking required, that speeds things up.



Another day and another session of riveting and its ready for another round of Isoflex.

 

Colour time

 

First part of the furniture to get fitted is the access covers and my first modification.
I changed the bolts to brass and made gaskets out of butyl rubber sheet.



Water filler and front support bracket.



Water hose bracket, water lifter and toolbox.



Finally for today the hornplate brackets and steering chain shaft brackets.
There is a web bolted to each of these brackets on the inside of the tank, once fitted they got round 3 of the Isoflex treatment.



Getting exciting at this point as only one further lump to go before joining them all on to the boiler.
Keep on building Folks.
Simon C

Okidoky !! It's time for the last of the big lumps before the coming together of all the sub assemblies.
The cylinder block, I can see a hell of a lot of maciening has gone into this monster of a casting, would be interesting to know just how long one of these takes !
Just a few grinding marks to address before painting.
I use a needle gun to reproduce the sand casting look as much as possible in these areas.

 
 

All put together and masked ready for painting.
I had done a dry assembly of the valve and regulator gland followers before masking and found no issues.

 

A couple of coats of that 600c satin black paint and 24 hours drying time and I was well happy with the results.

 

With the block now part of the ever growing pile of subs sat in my lounge I moved on to the crosshead, slide bar bracket and weighshaft bracket.
The 2 extra brackets in the picture are a modification for the ash pan mounting points as I could not make the pan fit as supplied.
A weld on the foundation ring and an under bent top edge on the ash pan ganged up together to make fitting the mounting pins imposible.



Last job for this post.
The ash pan, you can see the extra mounting holes I made in the pan to align with the new support brackets.



Ok that's enough for today.
Happy building.
Simon C

Having held off with this build until my boiler came, I had the biggest part of the kits snaffled away in my spare room.
On arrival I take the instruction pack out of each kit and scan them into my computer for future reference, this enables me to hunt through the Isos easily and find parts.
I do try to do the kits in the order they arrive but for some strange reason the steam head comes late on in the build, the fitting of this ether requires the rear spectacle plate be removed, risking paint damage !! or left unfitted until the head arrives.
So after a look through all the build notes "SPOILER ALERT WARNING" I find the steam head in Kit 21 and the pressure gauge valve in 22B both of which I had so I could fit them before mounting the hornplates on to the boiler.



I found in a previous build that standing the boiler on the smokebox end and lowering the hornplate assembly down on to it was my prefered method.



C.I.D. would have no problem Identifying the culprit with all those fingerprints as evidence  



Fire doors next, dead easy with it still stood up with its bum in the air and at a nice working height.

 

Once fitted, the horn plates make a good foot for the boiler to stand the other way up.
I stood it on an offcut of carpet to protect the paintwork from the workshop floor.
After standing it up this way the smoke box slides on with minimal persuasion.
I put an old towel over the top and then gently taped around the edge with a rubber hammer.
It is important to line up the holes in the smoke box with the ones in the boiler before getting it fully home this will save drilling them after its fitted.
It's also important not to knock it all on one side but to move around with the blows so it doesn't get jammed, it will spoil your day for certain if it does get stuck.



Once the smoke box was fully bolted up, ( no holes requiring drilling ) the perch bracket was mounted along with the front door, the face of the engine.



Time to lay it all down.
I put rubber sheet between the axle stand and the axle to help protect against damage and a piece of underlay cable tied to the pivot casting to protect my precious paintwork.



Test fitting the cylinder gasket proved worthwhile as a couple of holes did not match up with the ones in the boiler and required finessing a little.



A nice even layer of the brown gooey stuff on both faces of the gasket and the block was bolted in its new home.



Last one for today, putting the pistons in the bores and measure the port faces so that they can be centred once connected to the crankshaft.



That will do for today folks.
Happy building
Simon C

Ok on we go with the next instalment !!
With the block all bolted down its time to put the business end back together.
The rear cover was the first thing so that the gland followers for the pistons and the regulator could be fitted.
The piston gland followers caused a little grief as they were a slightly bigger diameter than the holes in the cover plate.
Nothing that a good helping of patience and a file couldn't put right, but would have been easier to do if I hadn't bolted the cover on or the vice was closer to the engine.
Not wanting to over do the filing I got my step count up that day.
The slide bar and weighshaft brackets on.
The weighshaft bracket will need setting up for height and level once the valve gear is inplace.



The LP valve first.
Minimal end float and free to move on the rod at all points of its travel.
I say that as my puck went tight as it moved to the rear of the valve chest.



The HP valve did not put up much of a fight and was soon fitted along with the valve rod coupling.
No real point setting anything at this point as it all needs to come apart again.
I took a video of the valves moving super smoothly, but as I don't know how to put it on here you will have to take my word for it.



The crosshead and slidebars next, working out where to start with this part is the first problem.
Half a gallon of coffee and a good scratch of the head and I had it on the ropes and I had also rediscovered how satisfying this sort of work is !
Just one word of caution, shims made from beer cans cause hiccups !! and they take several cans to perfect properly !!!



A quick test fit of the cladding next, for no other reason than finding out if it will go with the slidebars inplace.
Needles to say I held my breath for this part as I did not like the thought that removing them might be necessary.





Ok that was an easy job so after taking it all off again time to fit his thermal underwear.
Really pleased with the fit just needs a second piece cutting to fit between the horn plates.



Painting time.



Fitted to the boiler again this time with the brass bands in place, this was so I can mark the position of the lines against the bands and not the edges of the plates.
I draw along the bands using a dry wipe board pen, once masked the pen can be removed with a soft cloth before painting.
It's important to remove the pen mark before painting to stop the ink leaching into the fresh paint of the stripe.



All masked up using Finesse Tape with a low tack masking tape along the outside.



One Shot gloss black and an hour later and I am happy with the result.



Back on the engine after a quick polish of the brass, well worth the effort setting it all up.



With the cladding on, the belly tank can finally be finished and fitted.
Starting with the steering chain shaft.
Much easier on this old farts knees fitting the shaft on the bench than kneeling on the floor.
Again I took a video to show how easily and smoothly the shaft turned but again you will need to take my word for it.



Just one of the mounting holes needed opening out to get it to fit.



Last one for this session the copper finnisher and dummy mud hole clamp



Sorry this installment was so long ! but it's so easy to get carried away when building one of these things.
Keep it fun folks !!
Simon C

Going to try and keep this one a little shorter today.
Now the belly tank is on the steering can be sorted starting with the steering wheel.
It took a little time to get it spot on but I can now turn the wheel by holding the rod.
My only complaint is that there isn't much thread sticking through the worm gear for the lock nut so locktight the hell out of it.



After a morning of hot oil fumes this little lot was ready for fitting.
A spot of weld on each of the joints first to prevent them from opening up in service, it's not funny if it happens on the road trust me !!
Only other modification from design was changing the 2 split pins to R clips.



All fitted.



Proving the check chains.
They needed shortening by 1 link each side after this as I hadn't made an allowance for the axle to tilt and the wheel could have rubbed against the boiler if left.



Time to get cranky !!
Not wanting to bore you with all the details but after several hours of marking and bedding the big end shells and 3 eccentrics it all went together a treat.



Nothing is tight at this point as the eccentrics will need to be aligned once the valve gear connecting rods are bolted on and likewise with the water pump connecting rod.
Once lined up left to right the retaining screws in each of them will need to have a good dose of thread locker applied.



Last one for tonight is getting my teeth into this lot !!
Some unbelievable horrors putting this together, the compensating centre (top left) was not good but a call to STW towers and a replacement was in the post.
More of that fantastic backup service you get from STW.
Just in case any one had spotted the Brasso tin, No! I didn't polish the gears with it.
It's not Brasso it is anti seize and its in a Brasso tin because the plastic tub landed badly !
Note to self "store in a safer place" it's a bugger to get it off the floor.



Stay cool if you can, another hot one coming this weekend.
keep building.
Simon C

Nice work

Simon C wrote:

Stay cool if you can, another hot one coming this weekend.
keep building.
Simon C

Thats easy, just turn up the AC, one of the best things I bought many years ago, bar the 4" Agri of course

Okioky on we go with the build.
Having spent several hours making the diff lock slide into the inner bevel gear I took one of those moving picture things but as I have said before I don't know how to put it on here, and I am toooo old to learn!!
If anyone is truly interested I can put it on messenger if you PM me a contact name.
After fitting the left hand second shaft gear and key the inner bevel gear and its key were next.
I don't know about other builders but I find key fitting both enjoyable and very therapeutic.



The rest of the diff was relatively straightforward to fit but did require a couple of shims making for between the retaining washer and second shaft.
The crankshaft gears slid into mesh very easily, I was well chuffed with them as it meant no shimming of the crankshaft bearings was required.



Another key fitted and as for the gear mesh,...... all I can say is wow!!!! how do they do that so well??



With all that success under my belt I decided to trial fit the left hand final drive gear and winch drum.
Well it fit like a glove so I guess it will need to come straight back off for painting.



I takes longer to mask it off than to paint it.



Might as well do the other bits as I have room in the oven.

   

About 1 hour later and still slightly warm from there roasting.

 

It's been 6 months since I made the wheels and it has taken every minute to pluck up the courage to paint them.
I don't know if I have mentioned it but I don't like painting wheels !!!!!!
First job is masking the bits I don't want paint on, so hundreds of 1" lengths of tape to go around the rubber will be needed.



Ok now to stick them on.
I actually find this part quite satisfying.
It takes between 60 & 70 straight bits on each side to make the curve look smooth.



Now that's done the clock is ticking !!  Leave masking tape too long and you need dynamite to get it off and that tends to scorch the paint.
It takes between 80 & 100 straight bits on each side to make the rear wheel curves look smooth.
Might as well do them while I am at it and the finger ends are already sore.



Last one for tonight, the rear wheels mounted on the painting stands get the first coat of hi build primer.
They will get a second coat before flatting back ready for top coat.



Try and stay cool and keep building folks.
Simon C

What better than working on the spare wheel while waiting for the paint to dry on the other 4 ?
The masking is fairly minimal here, with the outer edge masked first then using a large jubilee clip to hold a large keyring on to it for hanging it up a tapered wooden bung was used in the center.



After a good coating of powder it was off to the oven.



Due to the mass of the wheel it took a lot longer to get it up to temperature for the curing process,
the cooling time was also longer.
Once it has been in the oven the masking tape needs to come off whilst it is still warm or it sticks like you all know what to a blanket.



Next on the job sheet was  the gear guards.
I think that the grinder was having an off day when he dressed this one.



After a good rub over with the sander the surface was vastly improved.
I find it incredibly satisfying when I can see where I have been as clearly as this.



Pinstripe time, One Shot gloss black signwriting paint.
A good job to do at the kitchen table in front of the TV.





Finally finished the other wheels and pinstriped them, again with One Shot paint.





The gear guards required minimal tweaking to make them fit but it is essential to cut the rivets that hold the mounting brackets, very close to the nuts so they don't catch on the gears.





Last one for today.
At long last (9 months) he stands on his own 4 feet for the first time.



Much cooler in the workshop today so going to drill some holes, but that's another story.
Happy building folkes.
Simon C

Looking very nice indeed.

Lynn@STW wrote:Looking very nice indeed.

Thanks Lynn.
He has been an absolute pleasure to build, a real credit to STW for making such engines possible for me and so many others to build.
Simon C

oops ! must be getting forgetful in my old age, forgot to take the before pictures so I hope you can use your imagination for what this was like before.
Some of that garage alchemy on this little lot.
The expansion link and lifter arm, Variable valve timing and reversing of the engine all in one.



I love putting these sort of bits together, they are so satisfying.
I wish I could have a chat with the inventor !!
It's not completely together as yet as I hadn't put any of the split pins in.
I use short lengths of MIG wire until the timing is set.



Seems a bit random this one !! but it needs fitting, the blower pipe and valve.
This is used to create extra draught through the fire.



Next on the list, the reversing lever and regulator controls.
Must have my memory back because you get the before and after pictures.



Doesn't really look to be much of a change but quite a lot of time has been spent cleaning off the machining marks and doing the polishing before the alchemy and paint.



The regulator control first.



The reversing lever, fun fun fun putting the spring on and that's after peening those 2 tiny rivets that hold the spring bracket.
Dropping any one of them on the workshop floor would really ruin your day !!



Time to finish the gear guard so that the reverser has a place to attach on to.

 

Might as well fit the final drive guard while I am at it !

 

Sorry about the picture quality on this one.
The regulator control mounted on the spectacle plate.



Last one for this instalment the reverser notched and fitted.
Not much movement from full forward to full reverse.



Just in case anyone was wondering, the purple strap in the last couple of pictures is attached to the axle tube.
I use the crane to lift the engine on and off the axle stands so I don't have to keep getting down on the floor to position a jack under the engine.
Getting down is easy but getting back up ??
Remember "Work Smarter Not Harder !" and have fun doing it.
Happy building
Simon C

Got a real treat today !!
Not had a bench full of bits like this for a while.
Water pump, clack valves and the blowdown valve.
It all looks a little complicated at first glance, but a read of the instructions and a squint at the Iso's and it was a breeze !!



The clack valves first, that takes 16 parts off the table.
Each of the 2 clacks has a slightly different setting and once they are together its hard to tell them apart.
To get around this I mark the inside of the flange with a Sharpie, don't need to clean it off that way as it will be hidden against the boiler when fitted.



Water pump next, and just like that another 18 parts leave the table.
Getting the front bottom mounting bolt in was a challenge, put a lot in the swear box doing it.



Plumbing time, I didn't show it on the first picture but the bulk of the plumbing came with this kit.
The 22mm valve supplied for the balance pipe was a little industrial and decidedly ugly to put it politely so I changed it for one the same as on the showmans engine.



The start of the next kit Looks very similar to the one previous !! loads of bits.
Gauge glass and gear changer in this one.



Dry fitting the gear changer and getting everything to work in harmony is very time consuming but incredibly rewarding when it all finally comes together.
I got lost in the job of putting this together and it was close to midnight before I gave in, it just gets to you that way at times !
I did end up making a new lock plate as the one supplied would not lock in the neutral position.
It all needs to come off again now to get cleaned and polished ready for blueing.



Water gauge next, good fun cutting the glass tube I hold my breath every time I do it.
Another confession required ! "I use viton O rings instead of the supplied silicon sleeve seals" I just find it easier to get them to seal properly.



Just a few bits of plumbing to finish off now, starting with the blast pipe and the blower pipework.



The water lifter valve and pipework.



Finally for this episode the simpling or starting valve and its pipework.
LOOK OUT !! swear box.
I think this is probably the hardest part to get the bolts into, "never mind" ! new bigger swear box on its way.

 

Ok I think that is enough of torturing you for this episode.
Happy building
Simon C

On we go then !
Something a little fiddly to start today, the cylinder drains.
The first part of this job is to make the stem fit the body by lapping the 2 parts together.
Starting with fine lapping paste and a good film on the box and finishing with a little Brasso.



The stunt hand is Back !
Next part is to fit a washer with a square hole to the end of the stem sounds easy until you look at the size of the parts.

 

Just gripping the washer without damaging it is a challenge but it is necessary to stop the nut moving as the stem turns in the body.
One down and one to go !



Something a little less fiddly next with the pressure gauge fitting even though it is mounted on the hardwood plinth with some very small screws.



The motion guards next on the list starting with the dry fitting of the beading strips.



Off to the powder room we go along with the gear change bracket.



The masking up of the gear change bracket was a chore but the unmasking was worse, I got distracted by a visitor and forgot it was cooling down in the oven.
By the time I got back to it it was cold and the masking tape was stuck on like You no wot on a blanket.



Cringe worthy thing painting the Brass to some I suppose ! But it's not a Showmans, it's the working engine look I am going for.



The cylinder Drains got fitted While I was waiting for the gear guards to finish baking in the oven.



Oily bitts next.
Apart from needing to make the tank lid fit properly I don't have a lot to say about this part of the build.
The part numbers and instructions can be a little confusing but I think that is because you get spoiled by the Quality of STW instructions and Iso's.



Getting the pump screwed into the tank is an interesting challenge.



I am not certain it is a good idea to leave all of the oil pots until the end and hit them in one go but I have left all 12 of them until now.

 

That will do for today folks.
Simon C

Just a few finishing touches left now !!
Starting today with the Hubcaps.
A few machining marks to deal with first followed by a polishing sesion at the buffer wheel.



They clean up really good I think.



After a little of that garage alchemy I put a 6mm thread in opposite holes in the rear caps, they have a 5mm hole in them and that is the correct tapping size for M6.
This allows a screw to be put in to pull on when removing them later.
They are quite a tight fit in the spigot, especially when you add a paint layer.



I thought that the belly tank access covers needed a little blinging up.



A little bit of graffiti work in green needed on them I think, and whilst waiting for that to dry I Might as well do the cylinder name plates.



That looks better I think, but I am biased !!



The cylinder block cladding had given me a problem that required a replacement part Sending out.
The hole for the whistle base was in the wrong place, ether that or the hole in the block had snook downwards when I wasn't looking  
As usual STW came through in double quick time with the replacement part.



Very little tweaking required on the replacement with all the mounting holes lining up, Well happy with it ! Thanks STW !!



Now to take care of the seating arrangements !!
I noticed on an earlier build that the type of seat that is supplied with the SCC was likely to damage the paintwork on the back of the tender just above the tow bracket.
My solution at the time was to fit an angle iron onto the foot rest so that the seat bracket would not make contact with tender.



Next was the seat mounting itself.
To fit the seat as supplied would require the bunker extensions leaving off or a slot cutting between them and the bunker to accommodate the bracket.
In the case of the latter the bunker extensions would then need to be removed first before the seat could be taken off.
On My Showmans engine the seat hooks over the top of the bunker extensions so why not on the SCC I thought ?
Time for a little cut and shut.



After a coat of paint and a strip of cork to protect the inside of the bunker extensions I am going to call that all good.



Next on the list of modifications was the oil pots associated with the second motion and axle shafts.
They are a real pain to get the lids off especially the one under the water pump and the one under the gauge glass.
My solution, move them onto the rear spectacle plate and add a little plumbing.



Time for a Name plate.
I had mentally named the engine the day I ordered it but had kept it to myself.
Call me superstitious if you like but I think the christening of an engine should not come before at the very least its first air run.
By the time the Nameplates arrived the engine had been run several times on air but not yet steamed.
The plates are cast brass and very heavy and they finish the engine off a treat.



After his christening Brian George was allowed to rest for 48 hours before getting his tummy tickled by the boiler inspector.



After a cold inspection I readied him for his first ever fire and steam test while the inspector looked at my Showman's engine.
A couple of hours later and he was ticking over with a new commercial boiler certificate issued.
He was Road registered 10 days later and the insurance company informed of the new registration number.
Up until the time he was registered, the engine was insured under his boiler number.
It is most important to change the insurance to the registration number once you have been issued one, this will prevent them sending you a fine for having no insurance against the registration number showing on the DVLA database.
If anyone reading this is wondering, steam vehicles are both tax and MOT exempt but still require a registration and road traffic insurance to go out on the road.
DVLA still send out an annual road tax reminder and you will have to go through the motions as if you were taxing a car, they check for MOT and insurance at the time of renewal.
The fun begins in the fourth year when they require an MOT, at this time you will need to fill in an MOT exemption declaration form and take it with the renewal to a Post Office.
The Post Office taps it into the computer and you go on your way, it takes just a few seconds.

Finally, at this point I would say that if you are a new builder it is best to steam an engine before you invite the inspector along, if only to get a feel for the quirks that all engines have and to check things like water pumps, injectors and water gauge are all good and safety valves lift at the correct pressure.
It would really ruin your day if your new pride and joy should have a problem and you end up paying for another inspectors visit.
My last piece of advice is read the instructions twice and build the engine once and if you still don't understand ask!! Here or at
support@steamtractionworld.co.uk

Well I think that Wraps up this build folks !!
I have A bowser to start at some point but work keeps roodly getting in the way, I will post that one once I get around to it.
Happy building folks.
Stay safe and keep building your own engines and above all keep posting your builds on here please ! as I need something to read.
T.T.F.N.
Simon C

Surely we need Lockdown 4 now

I'm now waiting for a Foden build now

LiveSteam wrote:Surely we need Lockdown 4 now

I'm now waiting for a Foden build now

Thanks for that LiveSteam.
The bowser will be my last build I think !
With 4 engines, 3 four wheel wagons and 2 bowsers in my engine shed it is full enough
I had agonised over a 6" Devonshire when first offered up several years ago but I think they have gone away now !
The timing was wrong for me as I had started the SCC but The 6" aggie had me drooling for a while, unfortunately I believe that they have also gone to the "maybe one day" archive.
I have been making rosebud grates for the engines but as yet not had time to test them as yet.
I will post on here when I have had time for a test.
Simon C

What an excellent series of posts and you have ended up with a fabulous looking engine.  

If you get withdrawal symptoms from not building anything, you are welcome to come to Beaconsfield and spend a day with me on my SCC showing me some building tricks

milford59 wrote:What an excellent series of posts and you have ended up with a fabulous looking engine.  

If you get withdrawal symptoms from not building anything, you are welcome to come to Beaconsfield and spend a day with me on my SCC showing me some building tricks

Thanks Milford, and you are welcome to come to Derby and have a play with him or one of his friends.

Simon C wrote:

LiveSteam wrote:Surely we need Lockdown 4 now

I'm now waiting for a Foden build now

Thanks for that LiveSteam.
The bowser will be my last build I think !

I like the fact you have put "I think" at the end, so there is still a chance

I've got a large lump of steel that I need to rosebud for my Agri one day.

Must admit I'm toying, and it is only toying at this stage, for the 6" Little Samson, hoping they might have something down at GDSF this year. The Little Samson will tick a fair few boxes for me as its bigger than 4" but not really as big as a full on 6" meaning it will fit in my standard carrying vehicle.