Flywheel key removal

Hi all
I seem to have got my flywheel key stuck half way. I was leaving it loose in case a flywheel removal was necessary. When running under power, i tapped it in a bit and now i can't remove it for final fitting
any ideas on any suitable tools or what i can make to pull it loose - the standard gear pullers don't seem to fit the bill?

any advice welcome!

Andy

Hi Andy,

on mine I have the same issue, I still have to fit the key completely, right now it‘s sticking out a bit (still )

On mine I can wiggle the Flywheel a bit and in the end pull off and remove the flywheel with the key stuck to it. I can then take off the key. Of course LH wheel has to come off for that. If flywheel is a bit subborn you might try with a soft hammer on the flywheel.

Last time I had it off I took up all my courage and drilled and tapped a hole in the end of the key to have something for the puller to grip to.

And, as a last resort I drilled and tapped the flywheel itself radially, just opposite to the key, so now I can use a grub screw to lock the flywheel in place - belt and braces I think.

Hope this helps.

Cheers

Elwood

Hi Andy
I made up a puller several years ago having the same problem.
Using a length of 6mm flat bar I filed a square hole in one end that fits over the head of the key and an M8 coach bolt to react off.



With the bar hooked over the head of the key and the bolt adjusted to provide the pivot against the end of the crankshaft,
most of the time the key will then just lever out but a gentle bit of persuasion can be used if it still wants to argue about it.



Simon C

Thanks Simon & Elwood

I'll have a look at it tomorrow!

I use a tapered length of flat bar. So just a basic wedge. Couple taps and the key is loose.

Get a small morse taper drift, it has a slow taper and will fit between the head of the key and the flywheel boss, a couple of taps with a hammer should remove the key.

For the flywheel key problem, I had a go at all these suggestions to no avail initially. Finally shifted the key with a tool made up similar to Simons, a square hole in a bar, eventually worked the key loose. I managed to damage the paint around the boss, so gave myself another job to do! Key now fettled for final fitting.

Another thing on my "to do" list are leaky inspection covers. On first fitting, these we water tight, subsequently, with water sitting in the tank for a while, they have started to weep/ drip a bit.

What have others used as a seal on these? anyone used a gasket paper?

I used 1.5mm rubber sheet as a gasket for the belly tank doors, as it's got a bit of give in it you don't have to go giddy with the M3 nuts to get it water tight.

The gib head key securing the flywheel to the crankshaft is a slow taper - like a Morse Taper Drill, if fitted properly it needs a shock to loosen it. The key should be fitted using engineers blue to ensure a good contact on all four sides of the key, it doesn't need battering in with a lump hammer, just tapping in the last 3/8" leaving a gap of around 3/8" between the head and the flywheel boss.