Second Steaming

A second steaming today!



altogether a better experience, with additional confidence

Still a few problems:

1) The regulator is still letting by. it is better than it was by increasing speed, but would not shut off completely and was ticking over quite fast whilst fully closed. I have already removed the safety's and can see that the puck this time is in contact with the regulator plate but with all parts still being hot, was still binding somewhat. I will fettle this again and try again! - unless there are any other views?

2) Water pump is working of sorts. The Pump is clearly pushing water into the clack valve as the pipe and clack are cold. It doesn't seem to flow in very fast, it took quite a while to see any difference on the water gauge. after running the pump for a while i noticed a steady leak of water running under the cleading and down the boiler throat plate - it looks like the clack valve joint has given way. When the pump it turned off the water leak stops. see video:-



I'm assuming this is nothing more than a removal and refix? Any suggestions for what to use in the joint, or whether a gasket is needed?

3) The water pump is making quite a racket when pumping - see video



The noise stops when the pump is turned off. Does this sound right? it sounds wrong to me, any ideas?

4) Cylinder drains leaking quite a lot. I did spend more time on these earlier this week, but they still leak badly. Is this just more lapping required??

Good news, the water lifter works fine, and other leaks from first steaming, were good this time round. I even put it in gear and ran it up and down the drive!

As always any help greatly appreciated.

Andy

Hi

The water pump is slow especially at low RPM. Inertial etc against the valves etc.
The sound is the balls in the non returns working well and cleanly.
On Crystal I have the bypass valve set at 2/3 or so and on a fast idle while generating. The water pump will keep the boiler level without gaining.
Out on the road the water pump is fully on for 1/2 to 3/4 of the running time at full. This will gain over usage for 3rd gear cruising on flattish ground running 1/3 to 1/2  regulator and fully cut back on the reverser. I rarely use the injector on the road.

The water down the cleading. If it was the clack valve interface to the boiler it would be continuous and very steamy hot, getting worse with pressure increase. It looks like the mechanical pump piston is not packed right in its gland. As when on bypass there is no pressure against the piston as the water is returned to the tender or when the crank is stationary there is no leakage reported.

For joint packing. You can get liquid like Heldite jointing compund or Hylomar (non silicon) jointing compound. Or go with gasket paper and cut patterns as required. Or go traditional with graphite yarn for joint packing.


So looking very good for a second steaming etc.

Well done and keep on steaming!

This is very impressive, and I hope you manage to sort out all of these small issues soon.

Thanks Lynn, good advice as always - I'm not sure the pump gland was done up enough, but i will check this week!

Thanks Milford, appreciate it.

My first STW engine was a 4" Agri which was built by my late uncle.(see picture on the right) I bought it from him before he died and rallied it for 5 years. I loved rallying it and the whole experience of ownership, but there was something missing. After a brief dalliance with a classic car, I knew what my retirement project would be - to build my own engine and have a full understanding of how it all goes together. I was not an engineer, I worked in Banking but with high levels of enthusiasm I started the build in October 2017 and have really enjoyed the whole process. So for those of you at the beginning of whatever you may be building, keep going, you will get there. take your time, do it to the best of your ability and don't rush it. I have found this forum to be massively helpful with answers supplied to all my questions. thanks to you all.

not finished yet though, still the last kit to come, more steaming tests and then hopefully some rallying in the summer............

Regards

Andy

I also have had a 40+ year career in banking and have built kit cars, rebuilt racing cars and motorbikes etc., but this is my first foray into steam.... I don’t even know what all the parts are that you refer to, so I am a bit concerned that when I eventually get it built, I won’t have a clue !! I guess I will cross that bridge when I come to it.

Hi Milford

As each kit arrives, spend time with the instructions. lay out the parts and see how they fit together - its lots of sub sections to build until you get the boiler. the drawings really help too.

I would say the instructions are really clear and easy to follow. if you do get stuck, lots of people here can help, as well of Will@STW of course! don't be afraid to ask - no such thing as a silly question!!

I second that. Whenever I had a issue during my build I either found a solution in the forum or got help from the other builders and from Will.

Back to initial question on engine running with regulator closed. Look for the video of Lynn how to check for leakages from regulator and/or starter valve. I had the same issue with engine running although regulator closed - sometimes it was even difficult to move reverser from neutral when the engine did not run for some minutes. At this moment the starter valve is bypassed thus solving that problem.

Cheers

Elwood