Tender Fittings - Kit 8

I have just received Kit 8.... there looks to be a lot to do with this kit, and a lot of painting logistics to think about. My tender is in primer, and I can give it a couple of coats of undercoat first, but then I will have to think about it. Should the fittings go on first and then paint the topcoat - maybe I’ll dry fit them first... this all part of the fun isn’t it - planning the order in which to do things..... I was thinking about doing my straps in black, but I am having second thoughts about that - I haven’t quite decided. I might do the winch brackets and the steps in black... decisions....decisions.  I wonder why STW don’t supply the tender tank top with Kit 7 ?  Maybe it would be easier to add that tank top whilst the tender is going together ?


Feel free to chime in with thoughts , observations and suggestions....

OK - I am off and running with this kit. First thing I did was assemble the water valve and trial fit it. The instructions are obviously a bit old and out of date as “Sheet 8 ISO”  was actually Sheet 7 ISO, and the part number for the valve was wrong, and although the connector is mentioned on the parts list there is no mention of it in the instructions... but I figured it out easily enough.....  My tip for this part would be to clean out the brass threads with a small wire brush, before screwing the parts together because if the parts have been sitting around there can be some surface gunge and this makes assembly harder.  You will need to grip the connector with a monkey wrench or similar and tighten the valve in with a spanner on the hex nut part. I might cut out gaskets from very thin rubber sheet, instead of using gasket out of a tube. I’ll see about that

Having completed my engine a month or so ago, I think the most crucial piece of advice I can give is to trial fit everything. If that means having to wait until next month before embarking on painting this month's kit, then so be it. Most times when I either didn't bother, or when I was too impatient to wait, I've ended up re-painting things.

The trial assembly will also give you a better feel for what actually needs painting, and what colour. For example what's inside and what's outside, or what might look better plated.

There are a few things that might not be fitted for several months, including fitting the whole tender onto the horn plates, but I found the pleasure of seeing a completed paint job now offsets the hassle of having to "adjust" some paintwork later.

But then again, I'm not the best painter in the world, so my workmanship's not as stupendous as some people's!

Stu

That seems like very sound advice Stu - thanks very much for that.  The only parts I have totally painted so far are the smokebox and chimney and the front axle and perch.  The rest of it , I have got to the undercoat stage but I am “top-coat shy”.   But from what you say, that’s ok, and I will get round to the top coats in due course.

These filters were not difficult to assemble, but if I had any slight criticism it would be that one of the pieces of gauze was cut a fair bit off square... so it made it a bit awkward at one end....I am sure I will come across MUCH  more challenging issues during this build, but I may as well give feedback all through the build. It might be taken on board, and it might help future builders. I decided to use some copper wire, rather than the tie-wraps, and araldite along the seam is a good tip from the build instructions.

I use tight fitting "O" rings to hold the gauze in place

I am a bit behind schedule on this kit, and today my Kit 9 (Hornplates) has arrived.  The picture shows the top being put in place ready to attach with all the rivet bolts. Once I have done that, I will get a small brush through the hole in the top and seal the joins with the Cromapol. Then I need to do a bit more painting of the tender, but I’m not doing any top coat yet.

I have a couple of questions as I get towards the end of this kit.... in the instructions it says that some of these screws “will have to come out later in order to fit pipe brackets”..... I wonder whether anyone could please tell me how many screws and exactly which ones:

Second question... I can’t figure out what to do with 6 countersunk M3 x 10 screws that are shown on the inventory.....can someone please point me in the right direction... maybe I have missed something obvious..  I hope not !!

Thanks very much !!

Hi Milford
You will need countersunk screws for behind the water filler. also the water lifter has a hex head to attach it in the top hole.
As to the why the top wasn't in the previous kit, if it had been you would have fitted it already and then you would be unable to put the nuts on the tow straps. the tow hitch etc, that is unless you have hands that fit through the inspection hatch that is.





You will also need countersunk screws where the tow straps cross the row of rivets holding the front bulkhead as you can see in the picture.
Simon C

Thanks you very much Simon. I am sure I will figure it out now, with your extra information. I already fitted the tow straps with the countersunk screws behind as they came in the previous kit - but now I understand where the 6 in this kit go.

Hi Milford
The photo I put up is a 2" aggie the tender is the same as the 4" aggie.
The isos you have for your SCC have some of the aggie build on them as they are so similar.
On your engine the tender is not filled on the side as the one in the photo instead that filler is on the belly tank and a 22mm balance pipe connects the belly tank to the tender.
hope this hasn't confused the issue further.
Simon

Yes, I realise now that your model is different to mine, but the ISO’s that are supplied are for the Agricultural engine and the builder just has to work it out for himself. I guess they just throw in the same fasteners into every kit, and then it will suit the SCC or the Agricultural. I have to say the instructions are pretty old and sometimes inaccurate with part numbers - I am sure it’s all about priorities at the factory but that is one area that could definitely be improved.

I can’t believe it’s a year since I last posted on this thread about the tender…. I haven’t actually made any more progress with the tender… it’s painted but not yet lined or varnished and I haven’t yet trial fitted it to the back of the hornplates, which I want to do soon, in case any grinding is needed, as I haven’t yet put final paint coats on the sides of the hornplates.

I eventually got round to the trial fit of the tender onto the hornplates, and I realised that the paint that I had applied was causing an issue where the fit was way too tight, so I decided to get rid of the paint, and then I was able to fit it successfully.
A good example of not planning ahead properly - but future builders can learn from my mistakes !! So, I haven't yet attached all of the tender fittings or varnished the tender, but I guess I will be able to do that quite soon.
Before I do that, I think I will fill the tender with water to make sure it's all sealed nicely - my belly tank had a couple of small leaks when I did the same, and I had to slap some more Cromapol in there.

I am back on the tender fittings and I am hoping someone can just give me the nod on the fitting of the balance pipe because none of the diagrams for the SCC show it, and they don’t show the large hole in the side of the tender for the elbow - I think my diagrams are for a different model.



So is it the long pipe at the front and handle turning downwards to open the tap ?

Thanks very much !

I changed the valve for one that looks less industrial as you can see below.
The long pipe goes between the tender and the valve.
It's also worth putting a vent in the top of the tender so the air can escape as the water goes in the bottom.
The vent will need to reach above the top of the belly tank as it is higher than the manstand floor.
Simon C

Thank you very much (again) Simon - I really appreciate your replies to my queries, and that picture is helpful as it shows how the other pipes go - can you tell me a bit more about the vent that you mention with maybe a picture of that.
Regards

"Tell me a bit more about the vent that you mention with maybe a picture of that."



I used an M6 brass bolt with a length of copper pipe soldered into a hole drilled through it, the bolt is just long enough to take the nut inside the tender.
Placed in the corner close to the bunker divider so as not to be over conspicuous.
S

Got it Simon - thanks very much for the picture.