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New cylinder block for the dcc

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New cylinder block for the dcc Empty New cylinder block for the dcc

Post  gwr1475 Sat 17 Dec 2016, 8:44 pm

Just wondering if anyone has used the new double open ended cylinder block in their build. Any chance of some pictures?

Mark
gwr1475
gwr1475

Number of posts : 61
Location : canada
Registration date : 2012-11-18

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Post  sonick45 Sun 18 Dec 2016, 11:05 am

Hi Mark,

Ive fitted one to mine as a replacement as my original had a casting fault and another to a new build. I dont have any specific photos of the block thou but could take some if required.
Were there any questions you had around the new block or was it just curiosity.

Nick

sonick45

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Post  gwr1475 Sun 18 Dec 2016, 4:56 pm

Hi Nick,

I am a little curios as to how it looks with the new back plate.

How did you find fitting the back plate, it looks to be self alining

Are the fasteners hidden?

Mark
gwr1475
gwr1475

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Post  Mark the spark Sun 18 Dec 2016, 5:09 pm

the screws are all counter sunk and once filled it is very hard to see that the plate is separate
hope this helps
by the way I fitted a very thin gasket between the plate and block to make sure it was steam tight
mark

Mark the spark

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Post  gwr1475 Mon 19 Dec 2016, 4:08 am

Thanks for the reply Mark.

I did wonder if the screws were to be filled and filed flush. That was how I was going to fit mine. My only concern with that is what happens if that joint leaks and needs to come apart for a new gasket?


Mark
gwr1475
gwr1475

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Post  Steve Traill Mon 19 Dec 2016, 2:56 pm

I wouldn't bother filling the screw heads, you may at some point need to remove it (unlikely as it is). When the motion covers are on & it's all painted black & covered in oil it won't matter a bit and at least you will know it can be removed if need be. never say never!!
Steve Traill
Steve Traill

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Post  sonick45 Mon 19 Dec 2016, 5:56 pm

I covered the two touching faces with a healthy amount of graphite paste and when fitted and tightened right up till the paste oozed out. cleaned back and then filled the edges with hight heat JB WELD putty using a pallet knife to force it into the cracks. Filled in the screw heads too as I wanted it to look solid rather than fitted with a back plate so hopefully wont need to come off.
Having fitted I then used a lolly pop stick to take away excess paste from inside the piston bore and made sure all steam passages were clear.

whichever way you choose, so long as you've gone the belt and braises approach you give it the best chance and been steam tight.
Judging by the quantity of fixings on it I would be surprised to see it leak so long as you have put something steam and heat resistant on the joint which will set hard before its pressurised.


sonick45

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Post  gwr1475 Thu 22 Dec 2016, 2:39 pm

Hi,

Thanks for the replies, much appreciated.

Mark
gwr1475
gwr1475

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