Who's Building the New Kits?

So, I/we have the first two kits of the road loco, burning a big hole here at home. I do have to get the workshop finished (as in built), and it's a tad close to Christmas, to start painting indoors. It's just sooooooooooooooo frustrating!!!!!!!!!  

Mark.

I don't have anymore kits. Boohoo. I wish you well in the new build.

Third kit arrived today, the tender...................... unpacked, ticked off against parts list, and boxed up again. Wot's lad to do! Yes I've fettled a bit with the axle and springs, front wheels temporarily assembled, and I'm so glad I went for vulcanised after reading some of the posts on "getting the rubber on" ooer!!!!!   and after chrissy, i daresay, I just may assemble the tender and seal, well no " JUST MAY" about it, I shall assemble the tender and seal it, defo no painting til w'shop is built. At least it can all live indoors for now, so bits I clean, aren't getting too obviously rusted. Quick question on sealing the tender, is it worth treating as much as possible before assembly, as advised with the belly tanks, soz if this has been answered many times before, I've read so many of your previous posts, a veritable encyclopedia, and lots of bits of info are locked and loaded, but no bells ringing on the tender. Really ought to get off to bed!

Mark.

Oh yes!!

I painted the brake shaft housing almost to the joint before fitting, I painted the inside before fitting the end panel. The one closest to the boiler as it bolts on the outside. Painted to within a 1/4" of the mating areas then once attached a good dollop round the joints by feel through the inspection hole. A lot easier. Did the same on the water bowser and is described in that thread.

If you are going to fit a duckboard in the tender foot plate you could do what Andy and I have done and cut the top plate to within an inch of the perimeter and then you can remove the whole sheet to get inside to seal, attach parts, clean and generally inspect. The cut cant be seen under the board and it makes it a lot easier to access. Andy bolts are stainless to lock it back down, I dont even have bolts, just let it lie loose and lift it up to fill etc. I'm sure if you ask nicely Andy may post a picture of it to aid visulisation.

I had the same idea as Lynn but the last panel I fitted was the top, far easier and less messy than pouring in and rotating every 10 min or so.

Thanks greatly for your responses. Now having access to a flow jet at work, the cut out top sounds like a plan!

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I ve done away with the original one and made a new one . Once the fittings are in the tender it will be sealed with 6 M5 s/steel bolts

the coleman wrote:Once the fittings are in the tender it will be sealed with 6 M5 s/steel bolts

Careful Andy, I sealed my top plate and it resulted in the tender being just about airtight, therefore when filling the belly tanks with water it was taking ages for it to go down the balance pipe. Luckily I fitted working water level taps on the tender, they need to be open to let the air rush out of the tender and the water in closing each one as the level reaches it.

Thanks Brian will do i have all ready thought about that iv got a vent which i will unscrew which  is next to the water pump pipes

Is the vent a dipstick too??

On mine I have fitted a float water level indicator and assume that it will vent as well.however, I do have working water level taps so now have a reason to use them.
Ian

Yes its both il just undo vent /dipstick when filling up

I have a float-based water indicator also, but extended the tube it runs in well above the level of the manstand to allow for the fact that the belly tank is higher than the tender tank. This also allows it to vent when filling.

Annoyingly, I have had a leak at the top of the tank at the front that allows water out of the tender when the engine is being pulled up the ramps with water in the belly tank (I know I could turn off the balance pipe valve, but usually forget). I have just re-sealed this area, so hopefully the engine won't be incontinent any more.

Tim

As I started here, I'll continue. I started to put the tender together today, and ran into a frustrating problem! The 5BA rivbolts which hold the sides on, were what i considered to be a bit fiddly to get started, on close examination, a lot of the last two threads, were damaged, along with some rusty, and what looked like maybe water stained nuts. They were so tight, I couldn't get them started by finger, holding them loose, so 1 1/2 hours later, i had sorted out the ones which would start ok, from the ones which wouldn't, and using a grinder in the dremel, I ground down the leading threads on all the bad rivbolts. The continued assembly, was now so much easier, I ended up only having to ease one hole one each side with a needle file. So with both sides now attached, is this nut/bolt issue normal, or have i had an awkward batch? I am most interested in the comments of those in whose footsteps I follow. And really do hope, going forward I haven't got to pre assemble every nut and bolt, to check them!

Mark

can only apologize for what looks like a quality issue there mark   

without trying to make excuses it is hard for us to individually check 100's of rivet bolts, but yes they should have been check periodically when they were made.

please don't forget, we are more than happy to replace any parts that have manufacturing problems. i know this can be frustrating when your trying to get on with things but the offer is always there   

Thanks Craig (the early bird), I didn't think they could be right, but you know what it's like when you want to crack on, hopefully they are in now, and the belly tank ones will be fine!

Mark.