Steam up !

As the Steam Ploughing was cancelled today, I decided to steam as I haven't done so for the past four weeks with holidays etc.

Now the flywheel is on everything is soooo much easier! By 10.30 she was ticking over nicely. Time to put some water in and immediately got a leak in the same place as the first pump. I carried on and as the boiler pressure build up more leaks appeared until i had a fantail of four large jets of water spurting out from the elbow above the bypass valve.

The other main problem, I couldn't fathom why the engine would not respond to any regulator at all. The only control was via the Starting valve. But the valve wasn't leaking past as per Highpressure's issue and my earlier efforts.

A quick call to Kev, being blown about on Brighton sea front, and as helpful as, ever he pointed me in the right direction. I took the high pressure valve chest off to find only a wiff of steam coming in from the regulator opening even when wide open. Further calls to Kev and Steve, suggested taking off the top of the Governor as I had installed the steam valve and this is could be stopping the regulator functioning if it was trying to regulate the steam from here. Bingo Pulled the rod with the steam valve on the other end up and I could feel a physical pull as the valve was trying to work and the regulator has full control. It maybe an idea for others, if you haven't got to the Governor stage, to leave the steam valve off the rod initially.
While the chest cover was off, I checked the HP timing and adjusted it everso slightly to make sure the ports just "cracked" open at TDC and BDC - hardly any movement needed but I could detect a different note in the exhaust just by doing this and it really isn't scary to do for those that haven't done it yet.

The steam oil check valve also blew back steam into the oil box, and I took this apart later to clean it out. When removed, I could just suck air through it so again it maybe worth a check for others. It's simple to take apart but there are some very small parts in there so careful not to drop anything.

The Injector won't pick up at the moment either, even with 150 on the clock, so a soaking overnight in vinegar is the order of the day.

I managed to get 3/4 of a glass in the boiler with the pump so decided to go for a little jolly. With 60lbs on the clock, into 2nd (no gear levers - away being plated) and off we went - primed for the first 50 yards and covered in black cack and wet steam.

What a beauty though - very easy to control on the regulator and reverser. Everything was so smooth even s low pressure. I covered perhaps 1/2 mile, with no problems at all with just a wide grin of white teeth showing through a very black face!

cheers

Rick

Excellent. My governor has none of its parts inside. I may actually take it off and just use a blanking plate for next season and the try and get it working.

Probably not a bad Idea, Lynn. There is enough going on to get our heads around without trying to figure that one out as well. I think i saw somewhere that Steve was advising this route, and I can see why now!

Good news Rick, glad to hear you actually moved and yes it is a very nice feeling and there is certainly some power there once you get to over 120 and find a few gradients the exhaust sounds great. Now the fun begins, running regularly and spending the next few sessions sorting out all the little niggles. One other guy who is often at rallies with me and works on full size and build minaitures for customers says you spend the first six months following it picking up all the bits that fall off!!!!!

Now lets see a video of it, and how clean is it???

Rickster wrote:With 60lbs on the clock, into 2nd (no gear levers - away being plated) and off we went

Rick

A word of warning - with no gear levers you have no way of locking the gears in place. If the gear slides out of mesh you will have 3/4 of a ton of runaway steel - please be careful!!!!!

Great to hear your experiences though. I have fallen behind a little with the house move, I have all the parts but they are not necessarly in all the right places as Eric Morcambe would say .

Cheers

Brian

In steam again today to make sure the new pump isn't leaking - it doesn't and the injector is ok.

It seemed to taken an age to bleed the water from the cylinder oil tank. I was pumping water for about 10 minutes. Well worth checking your non return valve and oil box level as when anyone is in steam.
I kept bleeding mine every 15 minutes or so to be sure it was working.

Seems the steam and water dribbles are starting to subside now. I keep going round with the spanners and tighten up. One common theme seems to be the nuts on the valve spindles on the Water lifter, pressure gauge valve and blower could all be done up by hand - they were quite lose this time. Even the whistle is beginning to show signs of sealing properly.

The safeties blew at around 180 but only the front one. It wouldn't close even dropping back to 120 and I had to snap the lever to close it. Which then set off the rear one!. They will have to come off tomorrow in preparation for the cold test, so I will have a look then. Probably some gunge holding them open a little.

Apart from that all seemed well. Roll on the cold and steam test !

cheers

Rick

After the steam test, there were a few minor issues to sort out, so today I lit up to check all was well.

A few things I have noticed, as some others have, the regulator does become stiff after cooling down to the extent the grub screw in the valve can become overwhelmed with the pressure to open the regulator and can move on the valve rod. As a consequence, the regulator was not fully closing. I would suggest, when the regulator is set as you want it, remove the grub screw and use a small drill to mark the spot then remove the valve and rod and file a flat on the rod to make the grub screw more secure.

I cannot stop the water pump from letting by. It's fine when the pump is on, immediately when odd, the clack and pipe get very hot quickly. I've tried re-seating the ball, but this has made no difference.
Any ideas great fully received.

I have given up on the whistle - it leaks everywhere! From the inlet, the valve, the back of the valve and the bell!

Check your nuts regularly! all of them. My steering chain adjuster nuts fell off and I had no control and hit a road sign! Only damage was some scraped paint off the smoke box. Nothing serious but it could have been. I hadn't checked them since putting the steering on.
I can't see how there is a way to get in there to double nut them, so I will replace them with nylocs.

Still had trouble getting steam oil in the cylinders. After much head scratching , I think I found the problem - i think the roller clutches are not working too well so squirted a load of WD40 in them to clear out the old oil and seems ok now.

So, after sorting things out, I went for a little road run for a few miles and all ok except the exhaust beat sounded like it was missing in full forward with about 120 on the clock which I hadn't heard before and still don't understand. I took the valve covers off and everything seems fine and the timing hadn't moved. Anyone any ideas what it could be?

I also found the lower HP slide bar was loose and a shim was falling out!

I fitted a small spring on the 2nd shaft to the fire door handle as it kept opening when bouncing along the road. Maybe something to consider for others who haven't steamed yet.

More of the same tomorrow if the weather holds out.

Cheers

Rick

For the steering nut, how about drill for a lit pin? It's how the full size are done