Ash pan clearance

Does anyone know if it's ok to have an air gap between the ash pan and foundation ring?

On my engine, to fully close the damper plate, I have to let the ash pan down to its maximum adjustment, which then leaves an air gap of about 5mm all round the foundation ring.

I think the damper flap is interfering with the foundation ring but am reluctant to file away any material off the damper plate until I know.

thanks

Rick

To keep good control of your fire one needs a reasonably good seal between the ashpan and the bottom of the boiler. The whole point of having an adjustable damper is to be able to control the air flow to the fire (basically more air more fire). If air is leaking in all around the ashpan the damper becomes redundant. I would try and get it within a millimeter.

Fully agree with Steve. The ashpan on my TE does not seal that well and so it's difficult to quieten down the fire sometimes.

The design of the ashpan looks excellent, with only one set of pillars in the way when raking out the ashes.

Tim

Thanks for the advice guys - spent a fair few hours trying to get it all to fit.

I had to bend the damper plate further back and chamfer the back edge as it was fouling the bottom of the firebox.

I also found it best to loosely fit the fire bar supports to give a bit of movement when lining it all up then fully tightened them as the last operation.

I have a very small gap at the front, probably less than 1mm now, so I'm relatively happy with that now.

Another question - what do people use when it saysS in the instructions "thread sealant" when putting studs into the boiler ?

On the belly tank brackets, I cut off the top hole on the face part of where the bracket attaches to the belly tank as my nuts are on the outside.

Great advice Steve - I cut round the brackets and the threads, the POR 15 held the bolts no problem. I will just go round with POR15 and a paint brush again though when it's all completed just to be on the safe side.

cheers

Rick

My experience with the loose fire bars type of grate is that they should be a very sloppy fit in the slots, and kept loose in service, by chipping off any scale that accumulates. That way they can move when hot and don't distort with the heat, mine are now on their third season. Much better than cast grates.

Tim

Hi
Have you all got the 2 spacers which go between the damper hinge and the flap or is it just that they were not in my kit.

If its just my kit will give Isabell ring.

Thanks Mike

greystones wrote:Hi
Have you all got the 2 spacers which go between the damper hinge and the flap or is it just that they were not in my kit.

If its just my kit will give Isabell ring.

Thanks Mike

Hi

Your not alone. I am also missing them and contacted Craig on Friday.

yeah, i'll look into this on Tuesday, seems they may have been missed

OK, not all the spacers were missed as we are down on quantity, but some may have been. please check again and let me know by PM and we will send them out.

also the bolt for the for door handle was supplied with kit 16 (M5x10 hex).

yep, seems quite a few people are missing the spacers. PM me or give Isabel a ring/e-mail and we will get them sent out very soon

sorry about that

Rickster wrote:Does anyone know if it's ok to have an air gap between the ash pan and foundation ring?

Rick

To reinforce the point from Steve Trail, I have seen a number of full size engines with some form of heat resistant material sealing the ashpan to the foundation ring. I am not sure what it was but I will try and remember to ask next time I see it unless someone else has spotted it and knows.

Maybe the likes of Seddon & Black or Heritage Steam Supplies (usual disclaimers ) have this material in stock. I know it is vital to have this sealed as well as possible otherwise you will have a roaring fire even when you don't need it. I know from experience as the Steam Yachts have a leaky ashpan and with the tall chimney on this ride it does pull the fire rather well even when the damper is closed.



Brian

I think the stuff you may have seen is what they use on woodburning stoves to seal the door. It's a sort of heat proof braided rope, I used to fit it to my woodburner many years ago. High modulus silicone was pretty good at attaching it as it is heat proof to about 500-600 degrees c. I used to have the woodburner white hot inside sometimes and I only had to replace it every 4 -5 years. It comes in a variety of thicknesses

Hi All
Having recieved my spacers today I decided to fit the firebox.

I also have the same problem as others, in that it does not fit up tight to the foundation ring and the flap will not open properly.

On examination of my boiler the 4 corners of the foundation ring where the welds end, have NOT been ground off, this leaving a 2.5mm

protrusion of weld whch holds the firebox off the foundation ring. If these were not there the ashpan would fit perfectly.

Question for Steve... can I grind these off ? or would a boiler inspecter not take kindly to me doing this in the future. OR Should I cut a piece off the air flap which is what they butt up to.

It looks as if this is the same as Rick had on his.

Hope this helps others Mike

Hi Steve/Craig,

Any view on Mike's thread ? Can we grind the weld back safely ?

Rick

I think Steve "will" be commenting on this in some way, maybe by PM.

anyone who wants the quick answer can PM me

Hi Rick,
I would not recommend that you grind the welds on your boiler. It could be classed as a modification, and as such could invalidate any pressure test carried out on it.

Colin

Rickster wrote:Hi Steve/Craig,

Any view on Mike's thread ? Can we grind the weld back safely ?

Rick