Craftmaster varnish

I've heard that on the final spray coat it is good to mix a little varnish with the gloss. Can anyone give me an idea what % of varnish to use with the enamel.

Thanks
Martin

Chris Vine used 50/50 on Bongo, can't remember his choice of paint though, will check the book

Thanks but I think it was Phoenix/Precision Paints. Not sure whether to add varnish or not.

It all depends what finish your after.

Some use no Varnish
Some mix 50/50 or 70/40
Others such as myself wanted a flatter glass finish on the paint so have cut back the final coat of craftmaster back with 1000 or 1200 grit wet'n'dry and after lining have sealed with a coat of varnish.
leaves a very shiny very flat mirror finish.

Yes I am tempted to use fine wet and dry then varnish but am a little concerned that as I understand it the varnish needs to be renewed after a couple of years.

At present my plan is to varnish front and rear wheels- but not sure whether to just varnish over the lining or the whole thing.

Regards
Martin

I have not varnished the tender.
Most of which is hidden by other components.
I have varnished the wheels, side panels and boiler tins.

Ok. what are the boiler tins? Hornplates?
Martin

Boiler tins are the cladding sheets

I have brushed the varnish but have found that I can't get rid of what seems like tiny bubbles all over the surface. The motion of brushing creates bubbles. The larger bubbles disappear when dry but the smaller ones are still there. I have tried a little of the pva additive but still bubbles. Anyone else had this problem and solved it?
Regards
Martin

For final coating on brush work I use a 1" wide soft artists brush, one with very soft fine bristles, and lay the paint off in the direction you want usually vertically on an engine. I found the Purdy brushes that Craftmaster recommend good but are more use on full size engine/narrowboat. I would definitely apply clear varnish/lacquer to all the lining to protect it from the all the cleaning that will take place. I've seen it where the lining has been rubbed away from all the wiping down an engine needs so a couple of coats of lacquer really helps with this.

Thanks Steve
Any ideas about the bubbles?

With the right brush you can pull them out but the brush that made them won't help much. With the right brush you won't get bubbles!

Ok thanks. A new brush it is then.

As Steve said. Very soft square head artists brush. 1" max. Lay off slowly with only the weight of the brush pulling through the paint.

Sorry to jump in:
Any suggestions which brush? What do you use?

Thanks in advance

Elwood

I used a few sets of the artists brushes fron The Works. They were cheap enought to buy a few sets. All I needed to do ead clean them in white spirit first before use, in case of loose bristles etc I obtained a brilliant finish. Mike

I used this brush.

http://www.hobbycraft.co.uk/daler-rowney-graduate-flat-wash-brush-1/578243-1000

Washed well with detergent to soften the bristles and left to dry over night. The brush was then given a good clean with a tack cloth to get rid of any loose particles and bristles.

Got a mirror finish with heavy duty yaght varnish as a top coat.

Hi all.

I find the Daler-Rowney System 3 Skyflow a great brush. Many different sizes and shapes, very soft and easy to keep clean with very little bristle shed. I have been using them for nearly 3 years now and they are still as new.

sonick45 wrote:I used this brush.

http://www.hobbycraft.co.uk/daler-rowney-graduate-flat-wash-brush-1/578243-1000

Washed well with detergent to soften the bristles and left to dry over night. The brush was then given a good clean with a tack cloth to get rid of any loose particles and bristles.

Got a mirror finish with heavy duty yaght varnish as a top coat.

Coincidentally this is the exact brush I bought today. Used it tonight and no bubbles

The secret then seems to be a soft brush used very slowly.
Great result
Thanks
Martin