Boiler Cladding

This bit has not been fun for me! It took most of Saturday to fit the first part after quite a bit of work to clear the clack valves. To ge the boiler rings to fit up tight to support end of this piece and the next I had to grind off some material to allow the rings to push up far enough against the weld of the clacks.

I found it impossible to fit witout scraping the paint on the inner hornplate sides with the amount of on an off required to get the fit right.

So far I've had two other problems - one being the cladding when butted up tight with the first piece about 1mm away from the front spec plate is too long in total compared with the boiler length by about 8mm.

The other problem I have found the third cladding piece that meets the cylinder is shorter in it's circumference than the last piece such that they do not line up by about 13mm.

I have decided to wait for the cylinder block before going any further with this kit.

cheers

Rick

Hi Rick,
I would agree, the cladding is a "challenge"!! I found the best way to save the paintwork was to simply take the horn plates off the boiler, alot of work I know, but makes life soooo much easier with that first piece of cladding which has to fit round the clack valve ports & line up with the dummy inspection port, front spectical plate & down the side of the horn plates!!







Like you, I'm not going to attempt to "finally fit" any of the other cladding untill the cylinder is bolted in place!!



Going to be a nightmare to fit the cladding when it's painted......... without scratching it, that is!!!
Regards
Tony

Hi All

I will be coating my cladding with masking tape. Couple of layers criss cross style.

It is tricky fitting the cladding without scratching it but once it's made to fit it should go on ok. Until everything is on the boiler there's no point trial fitting it as the fit around the cylinder block has to be good as that's the bit one looks at first. One thing I did on the SC Burrell was when the cladding is in place all painted, lined and looking great (and hopefully not to be removed for 10 years!) cut up an old towel to fit over the cladding to protect it as I can guarantee that every nut/bolt & washer will fall from your fingers and try & scratch you paintwork! The toweling not only protects the paintwork but also usually catches the nut/bolt/washer so that it doesn't ricochet to the far corner of the workshop!

Having read the issues with the cladding I wasnt looking forward to it but had a quick look today. The first piece certainly is a tight fit but looking at how it lies against the hornplate and seeing that there will be a motion cover, several valve links and a crank and not to mention all the muck and stuff that will collect there I decided that I would loose 1/2" or so to enable the very tight spot between the clack and the hornplate to go in easier.

I simply took the tin snips to the edge and cut off about 1/2" leaving about the exact size of the gap for the clack and hey presto 20 seconds and it fits in, no scratches, no hassle, no swearing.... I will take some photos if anyone wants me to. I haven't fitted all the stuff under the cladding I should add, just offered it up but I cant see that it will make it that much more difficult to fit.... I may be wrong though



Having been away for 2 weeks and not bothering to look at the bellytank brackets I am also pleased to find that being tardy has resulted in just the one mod Still all this pain will be forgotten once it steams happily and people look on in awe

I dont appear to have the final boiler band (under the cladding) part ending in 084, I have 8 bands that bolt together. Is this the same with anyone else?

This should be in spot the idiot

There should be 4 complete rings after bolting together and one half ring that buts up to the front spec plate