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aralditing hubs

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Flasback
Kevster
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Post  Kevster Sat 19 Feb 2011, 1:36 pm

Hi all,
Dont know if anyone has tried this but just finished aralditing my spokes into the hubs and used baby wipes to get rid of the unwanted araildite and blend into the spokes.
I used a finger behind the wipe to remove most of it then because finger is wet from the wipe i could blend it all in nicely and nothing sticks to your finger.
Thought its much better than using acetone,keeps your hands clean too!
Not seen the use of wipes mentioned before so thought would pass it on.

Hope it might be of some help

Kev

Kevster
Kevster

Number of posts : 424
Location : Hertfordshire 4 inch; DCC road loco
Registration date : 2011-01-27

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Post  Flasback Mon 21 Feb 2011, 7:55 pm

Great advice kev, but next time please keep your advice to yourself or state that you must buy the baby wipes first. You should have seen my wife's face when she found out that I had used all the baby wipes on the traction engine wheels: she or the baby was not impressed.....My wheels and hands look great though Very Happy. Keep the advice coming it's great as I am a few kits behind the rest of you.

Best regards,

Dwain

Flasback

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Post  Kevster Mon 21 Feb 2011, 8:47 pm

Whoops,
The trick is to it as descreetly as you can.

Using the wipes keeps your hands nice and clean and not covered in sticky araldite.
Thought it was a good idea to pass it on as I have seen Acetone mentioned before which cant be good for your skin at all.

I have only just started the build myself,just finished assembling the rear wheels,I am not worried about being a bit behind at the moment just taking my time ,
I may catch up a bit as time goes on.

when inserting the rivet bolts I tapped them in with a copper mallet enough to get the normal M6 nuts on a few threads then done the nut up ,pulled the rivet bolt home , then removed the ordinary nut and fitted the rivet bolts, a little thread lock was put on the thread too.

They pulled through quite easily and it saves bashing the rivet bolt to hard with the risk of the filler falling out.
Mind you I used jb weld to fill the T rings bit expensive but it does seem to be stuck really well and I dont really think it would fall out anyway,not sure about normal car body filler though if you used that.
I bought the industrial size tubes from ebay.

Hope that may be of use

Kev
Kevster
Kevster

Number of posts : 424
Location : Hertfordshire 4 inch; DCC road loco
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Post  bjwlancashire Sat 26 Feb 2011, 12:38 am

Kev

Just got in from fitting the rivets and hub plate on one side of a rear wheel tonight and your tip works a treat - plus my hands smell nice too Razz

Other side of wheel will get done tomorrow afternoon while listening to the football on the radio, up the Rovers cheers If I have time I might get second rear wheel built up too. Like you, were making progress, just want to keep up with the build.

Brian
bjwlancashire
bjwlancashire

Number of posts : 938
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Post  Kevster Sat 26 Feb 2011, 7:15 am

Makes a nasty ,sticky little job much more pleasant.

I have both rear wheels built up now and one into primer, I intend to catch up with the build up to a point but am intending staying at least one maybe two kits behind,
my thinking behind any problems that might occur will have been sorted plus I get to see any tips left on here.

I bought some axle stands so I can put the wheels on a tube and spin them for ease of painting.

keep up the good work

Kev

Kevster
Kevster

Number of posts : 424
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Post  bjwlancashire Sat 26 Feb 2011, 3:17 pm

Good thinking about thwe axle stands, I will have to dig out my rusty ones and find something to go through the hole.

When I say keep up, I mean keep up on a monthly basis, one kit a month. I only started in September and there are many people ahead of me. Next kit on list is boiler deposit by I will get the tender as well if I can so at least I am doing something each month. I have the belly tank to play with in March so hopefully the tender for April - really need to "brush up" Rolling Eyes on my painting for these bits.

Just off into the workshop to do some more wheel building.
bjwlancashire
bjwlancashire

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Post  Kevster Sat 26 Feb 2011, 4:22 pm

One more coat of primer on one and both rear wheels are primed up ready for undercoat.

I think I will be glad when they are painted,I am brush painting them and every where i look im seeing spokes,spokes and more spokes Rolling Eyes !

Will be trying craftmaster paint ,brushing it on, will be interesting to see how I get on,just hope I can get a good finish like others can.

If anyone hassome nifty brush painting tips they would be most welcome.

Kev


Kevster
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Post  lynnr Sat 26 Feb 2011, 4:47 pm

good quality sable and keep it loaded. "pallet" the brsh before using to get the brissles supple and loaded evenly.
lynnr
lynnr

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Post  Kevster Sat 26 Feb 2011, 7:47 pm

Thanks lynn,

already got a set of purdy brushes from craftmaster so hopefully im on the right track.

Plenty of rubbing down too I guess

Thanks

Kev

Kevster
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Post  bjwlancashire Sun 27 Feb 2011, 12:00 am

Lynn

What do you mean by "pallet" the brush?

Brian
bjwlancashire
bjwlancashire

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Post  sonick45 Sun 27 Feb 2011, 3:00 am

My understanding of palleting is when you work the paint into the brush before you start painting. You do this by loading the brush with paint and using a paint pallet or piece of plastic work the paint into the brush. Make sure you do this with side to side stokes not with a stabbing action or you will damage the hairs.

This action will soften the brush as well as making sure you get an even coat when applied.

Hope this helps.

Nick

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Post  Brian M Sun 27 Feb 2011, 8:10 am

I am taking the cowards way out and having the wheels professional painted (which was sound advice from Steve at STW). A local craftsman (who specialises in old vehicles) will paint all four wheels for £200.

I have a compressor and gun for spraying the rest of the engine, which will be easier for a novice like me
Shocked.

Brian
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