Boiler water gauge fitting

Hi all,

I have fitted the boiler water gauge to my DCC, however what I cant fit is the drain pipe.
20220716_112337 by Trev Read, on Flickr


What have previous builders done to resolve this.
I'm thinking I'll make 2 brass extension parts to bring the Gauge glass out by 20mm.
One for the top fitting & one for the bottom fitting.
20220716_113413 by Trev Read, on Flickr
This will then clear the rear axle oil box to allow the drain pipe to fit better.

I haven't got the reverser kit yet so not sure if this idea will interfere with it.
If someone could have a look that would be marvellous    
Thanks in advance.

Trev

Hi Trev,

When building Pied Piper I had the same issue. In order to fit the drain pipe I made a small cut into the axle box cover to have room for a down over and out bend. If you plan to stick with original design this might not work for you.











Mind you I had planned to change the axle oiler box to external oiling pot long before that, so that was no issue for me. At that time I had seen the version of Lynn and others with this remote oiler pot mod, and found it to be a clever idea.

Hope this helps

Cheers

Elwood

Hi Trev
I cut 1/2 inch from the top of the right hand axle box.
The box holds about 3 years worth of oil in one go so reducing the height won't cause a problem
I had considered putting a hole in the lid as Elwood suggested but if the gauge glass or its fittings leak the water will get into the box and contaminate your oil.
It was an absolute bear to remove the box so I used cap head screws when I replaced it.
The cap heads with a ball end key made putting it back a lot easier.
Simon C

Hi,

Thanks for the reply's guys.

I did consider modifying the axle lub box, but with it in position & I used JB weld just to make sure it didn't leak around the lub pipe.
I didn't want to attempt it...
I also considered making an elbow fitting to screw onto the drain valve and then screw the drain pipe to that.
But I didn't have the correct taps & dies. (need to order a set)

I have ordered some 7/8" brass round bar, to make some spacer fittings.
I already have the correct taps & dies for the threads.
Shouldn't take long to make  two 20mm spacers.
Hopefully it wont interfere with the reversing leaver.

I'll report back once I've made some swarf...

Trev.

There is no need to secure the axle-box oil pot with any adhesive as there is an o-ring between it and the axle-box. Likewise there is no need to fill it up with oil to the brim, a teaspoon-full will last a week. There is no need to butcher the oil pot lid to fit the gauge glass blowdown pipe - email STW and request the elbow fitting.

Capricorn1 wrote:There is no need to secure the axle-box oil pot with any adhesive as there is an o-ring between it and the axle-box. Likewise there is no need to fill it up with oil to the brim, a teaspoon-full will last a week. There is no need to butcher the oil pot lid to fit the gauge glass blowdown pipe - email STW and request the elbow fitting.

Thanks Capricorn1, If I the adaptors I'll be making don't work I'll give STW a call about the elbow.

The material I have order for this should be delivered today.
So I'll make the adaptor pieces over the weekend.

I'll post pictures (as long as it work out OK )

Trev.

Hi all,

Well material I ordered was waiting for me when I got in from work Wednesday.

This was the result by Friday...
20220806_071410 by Trev Read, on Flickr
20220806_071355 by Trev Read, on Flickr
20220806_071345 by Trev Read, on Flickr

I'm very happy with the result
Looking at builders photos on this forum, I don't think the reverser will interfere with the operation of either the gauge glass or the reverser.

Happy Building
Trev.

Trev, you shouldn't really be using brass for the adaptors. Brass fittings below the water line will deteriorate and weaken over time due to dezincification. Bronze or gun metal would be a better option.

Burrell_in_Sussex wrote:Trev, you shouldn't really be using brass for the adaptors. Brass fittings below the water line will deteriorate and weaken over time due to dezincification. Bronze or gun metal would be a better option.

OK, thanks for the advice.
I'll order some Bronze or Gun metal and remake them.

Trev

For my engine i made a right angle part which screwed on the bottom of the drain block

Hi All,
As per Burrell_in_Sussex advice, I got a 6" x 1" dia bit of LG2 Leaded Bronze.
To replace the brass spacers I had made, not knowing it wasn't the correct material.

First one finished.
20220813_131058 by Trev Read, on Flickr
And swarf
20220813_131103 by Trev Read, on Flickr
Installed.
20220813_131452 by Trev Read, on Flickr
It was getting too hot to in the work shop to make the second one, that's todays job. Before it gets to warm.

Happy building all.
Trev

Have you considered the fact that extending the water gauges stalks will alter the water level in the gauge glass when the engine is not on level ground? The elbow / right angle fitting that Thunderbolt made and fitted are available from STW to allow the blow down pipe to clear the oil pot.

Hi, Do we have a part number for the Right Angle/Elbow joint think I will need one for my build when I get to that bit please.