Kit 11 - Cylinder Block & Cylinder fittings.

After my slight setback with the boiler studs, I am now getting back on track, and this afternoon I started to attach stuff back onto the cylinder.

I have another question - I have the cylinder on, the studs cut down and painted, and the pistons are in.... I have trial-fitted the rear cover with the piston glands.....Is it now safe to attach the rear cover with Foliac - it’s not coming off again is it... sorry if this is a stupid question - I think I have become a bit paranoid about messing up again !!

If it was me I'd leave most things like this in a test fit loosely done up, unless its something that cannot be reached once another item is installed.

Once its all done and dusted then go around and button up all the bits with any sealer required, that almost guarantees you wont need to touch stuff, but if you do button it all up as you go then you can guarantee you'll need to pull it apart again.

Thats what always seems to happen to me

LiveSteam wrote:If it was me I'd leave most things like this in a test fit loosely done up, unless its something that cannot be reached once another item is installed.

Once its all done and dusted then go around and button up all the bits with any sealer required, that almost guarantees you wont need to touch stuff, but if you do button it all up as you go then you can guarantee you'll need to pull it apart again.

Thats what always seems to happen to me

Thanks for that advice.... I guess I will install the weighshaft, cross head and slides first and make sure they are all good, and then I can remove them to Foliac the rear cover.

I am not too happy with the studs that go through the weighshaft and the bracket into the boiler.... they will need to be PTFE taped and then screwed in with fingers and I am concerned that they will not be sealed well enough, if I can’t get them tight enough, and unfortunately I have a bit of arthritis in my fingers these days ..... so I have bought some studs with socket heads and I will use those instead.

A easy way to make studs easier to screw in is put two nuts on the stud and lock them together, then once the studs in unlock them and take them off.

I am adding this information into this thread (even though I have posted it in another thread about gaskets) as it is relevant to the topic of this thread.

I have made a 1mm thick gasket out of black silicon rubber sheet for the rear face of the cylinder. This rubber sheet  is suitable for high temperatures, and I believe it will do the job nicely and avoid any leaks.

I have carefully bent the cylinder cladding so that it fits round the curves very nicely and I have lined it up with the insert holes, and this what I find… the hole appears to be in the wrong place…

Hi milford

"I have carefully bent the cylinder cladding so that it fits round the curves very nicely and I have lined it up with the insert holes, and this what I find… the hole appears to be in the wrong place."

Same here. I haven't addressed the problem as yet due to work commitments.
I have also found that the holes in the brass bands dont line up, might be worth checking before contacting Will.
Simon C

Hi Simon

I had exactly the same problem and spoke to Will and he had said there was a bit of a difference between batches of cylinder blocks iirc. They made another batch of cylinder covers and after the 3rd attempt my new one was a good fit!
Defo worth contacting STW

Mark

Simon/Mark - thanks very much for your replies…. I will make contact with Will, and hopefully he can send me a new cover.