Fun & Games with gears

This afternoon I tried to fit the crankshaft to check all was ok with meshing with second shaft gears.
Two problems - firstly I can't get the crank 3rd speed gear to mesh unless I lift the crankshaft a tiny bit - obviously not an option once everything is tightened up. First and second speeds don't seem too bad (just a tiny bit tight). So my first thought was to take out one of the two 1mm shims that are under the second shaft chassis support to lower it but feel this is not a good idea as it will put strain on the shaft. So now feel the sensible option is to take all the 2nd shaft gears off again and to slot the holes in the rectangular mounting plate behind which is attached to the hornplate to allow it to drop a little, but not sure how I can countersink the holes lengthways to let the allen screws to seat properly.
Secondly, the gear slide shafts do not fit with the gear change yokes attached. I can probably cure this by fitting an M12 half nut instead of the full nut and shortening the thread that screws into the yoke.
Just wondering if any other builders have had similar problems and any advice would be most welcome.
Simon

Hi Simon
On the traction engine crank it is possible to put a shim under the crank bearings as they are square blocks.
If that's possible it should be easier than slotting the horn plates just a thought.
Simon C

I shimmed Crystals crank at the gear end with 1mm I think. Never did get to the flywheel end so she has had a list since new. No strain and the bearings are still perfect.

Hi Simon
Did you come up with a solution to the problem regarding the mesh of the gears ?
I will put mine together in the next couple of days (waiting for paint to dry) and see if I have the same problem.
I’ve gone down the route of building a Foden portable and then lifting the complete lump into the chassis so it will be an easy job to slip the gears onto the second shaft.
You could try posting on the STW owners Facebook group as there is a chap on there who recently posted who is into his third build !  
Failing that a word with Will at STW.

Thanks for the replies. Had a better day today trying to sort meshing of gears out.
I had to take one of the two 1mm shims out from under the second shaft chassis support (not ideal as it will put strain on the shaft mounting plate)
and then I took the crankshaft out again, loosened all the crank bearing housing bolts and lifted it as high as I could and then retightened all bolts.This allowed the crankshaft to come up just enough to give some clearance for the gears.
I am now happy the gears are sliding in and out of mesh on the yolks ok.
I had to shorten the thread on the gear change shafts and fit M12 halfnuts instead of M12 nuts supplied.
Tomorrows job is to try and loosen the crankshaft and trunk guides with pistons in the cylinder block.
Everything moves easily as individual parts ie pistons slide in the cylinder bores ok, trunk guides slide easily in their castings. the big ends turn easily on the crankshaft but once everything is tightened up it is VERY difficult to turn the crank over with the 3rd speed gear on the end as leverage.
Not really sure where it is tight - thought it might be the gland packing but have slackened gland nuts off which didn't make any difference.
The big end bearings do not seem to line up perfectly with the ends of the two con rods so might try slackening off the big end nuts and fit nyloc nuts just to give a bit of movement until the engine is run in. (Not ideal I know!)
How easily should the crankshaft turn over with everything attached? At present I'm really having to force it.
Again, any advice most welcome.
Simon