2" Burrell Kit 21

Hello Steve and Dean,

Would it be possible to give us an update with regards to the replacement 4BA countersunk screw and the replacement O ring for the waterpump as untill I recieve these parts I am at a standstill.
Thank you.

Malcolm

Hi Malcolm,

Both Steve & I were under the impression they had been sent out at the end of last week. It's only when we checked yesterday that we realised they were still sitting in packing!

They will be sent out first class mail today.

Dean

Hi everyone

has anyone got any ideas on how to do up the bottom nut on the water pump rod to the eccentric?
I've tried several ways including small child with small hands,but still no success.

Thanks Tony

Reference the above I found that by not fitting the waterpump body to the hornplates turn the crank so that the eccentric of the pump is almost at the bottom then by lifting the pump up so the rod fouls the top of the space in the rear spec plate and with the piston on its extended stroke you can get a socket screwdriver through the gap in the spec plate and do the nut up
The bigger problem was the lower mounting screws, the one nearer the front was a nightmare but I found that by screwing a stud from the outside of the hornplate ensured the pump was lined up and by slightly tapering the bolt supplied I managed to get the thread started.
If I ever have to take it apart I think it will be easier to remove the left hand hornplate!!!!

Now it's fitted I have no idea how I am going to take the left hand oil filler cap off from the axle shaft, can hardly see it let alone remove it!

Alan

I used virtualy the same method to fit the nuts holding the pump rod to the eccentric but I put some BlueTack into the end of the nut runner to hold the nut in place untill it had started onto the studs,this saves hunting for dropped nuts.
I did not have any problems with the bolts into the hornplate but I fitted the top ones first,I then used a tapered pin to locate the bottom holes, and tightened the top bolts. The bottom bolts then went in without too much difficulty but I did use an allen key on which both legs were of the same length ie: about 2" which gave me room to get my large awkward fingers in.

Malcolm

Thanks for the advice guys,I'll take the pump off the horn plate and give it ago

Cheer's Tony

Hi thaks for this All I can say is I hope I can rember this when I dig out my engine as it is cocooned under a lode of vennears..

has anyone had an alignment problem with the pump ram and eccentric as my ram hits the reverse eccentric strap when this is in the correct position. has anyone got a photo of the eccentrics on the crank i can check? i was thinking of moving the pump closer to the hornplate by grinding the base by aprox 1mm. Apart from this small problem and the hours of fun getting the cladding to fit all looks to be going well. a few pics of my progress from last week are in the photo's of 2" burrells thread. https://traction.forumotion.com/owners-photos-f2/photo-s-of-2-burrells-t9-30.htm#1250
Engine turns over by hand nicely, i will be getting a compressor soon to do an air test. what make/size do others have?
thanks Jon

Forge

Can't really see why you have a problem, on the back stroke of the pump the ram doesn't extend beyond the rear spectacle plate and therefore doesn't intrude into the area where the eccentrics are so I cant see how it is fouling them. Put a photo up of your problem

Alan

FORGE, WITHOUT SEEING A PIC, I KINDA SUSPECT THAT THEY MAY HAVE BEEN PUT ON WRONG, OR YOU HAVEN'T MIXED THE PUMP ECCENTRICS UP WITH THE VALVE ECCENTRICS HAVE YOU. JUST A THOUGHT, SILLIER THINGS HAPPEN.

BUNGLE

Thanks for your suggestions.
I will have a look again tomorrow, will take a picture when i have the pump back on. I do not think i have got the eccentrics on wrong as the valve gear looks like it works well. i spent a long time fitting it and was careful to get the right bits in the right place! i might just check the engine on air before going any further. For my valve eccentrics and valve gear to turn over smoothly i have put the eccentrics on the crank with a small gap between them, is this correct? does anyone have a picture or their valve gear / crankshaft with the water pump fitted. I could then compare with mine.
not easy to explain in words, so will take a photo when i have everything back together as valve gear was removed to ease cladding fitment! lol

the easy way to sort out mu problem would be to take off 1mm from the mounting surface on the pump. then everything will line up. i have extended the thread on the water feed 90 deg elbow so the pipe to the clack valve lines up in the u clamps. i hope i am not alone in not having the top bit of these?

Still very impressed with the quality of recent parts from STW! i will be getting itchy feet when its finished, so looking at the 4" DCC road or scenic to keep me in my shed for a few more years!

Oh, i will be at Weeting Steal rally next weekend. Is anyone going?

jon

Hi guys

Had the engine running on air today sounds wonderful,runs lovely,if a little tight,but I know it will loosen up in time

I have got some video footage of it,but I don't know how to get it onto the forum.

Anyhow HAPPY DAYS what with MW going down,not knowing what was going to happen,and the birth of STW,I feel today is a major milestone passed.Dean,Steve and everyone else at STW,thanks,you're all doing a good job.

Time to celebrate with beer

cheer's Tony

FORGE,
WEATHER PERMITTING DAD AND I SHOULD BE AT WEETING, POSS SAT, BUT REALLY DON'T KNOW FOR SURE YET. WAS GOING TO GO TO GUILDFORD, BUT LIKE WEETING, BEEN GOING SINCE A KID (51 NOW).

BUNGLE

Tony,

Good ole boy!!!!!! Am mostly lookin forwards to seeing the video if you get to suss it out. Ask the kids if u have any, buggers know more about this stuff than we do

Take it easy chap..

Best Regards

LilyJack

Somewhere on this site I mentioned the banging/thumping noise that I was experiencing when running on air, well I stripped all the eccentrics and big end bearing, checked them and reassembled after minute adjustment and guess what, still had the noise

Whilst I was running it I was a bit concerned that the flywheel was only loosley held on by the key. Couldn't find a grub screw to lock it on (Have we been provided with one yet?) so used a bolt to lock it on.

Got it running again and the noise totally disappeared. It was the play in the flywheel that was causing the problem after all. Now chuffs, whooshes, whirrs and turns over really well.

Anyone else deciding to run on air should note!!!

Alan

TonyT wrote:Hi guys

Had the engine running on air today sounds wonderful,runs lovely,if a little tight,but I know it will loosen up in time

I have got some video footage of it,but I don't know how to get it onto the forum.

Anyhow HAPPY DAYS what with MW going down,not knowing what was going to happen,and the birth of STW,I feel today is a major milestone passed.Dean,Steve and everyone else at STW,thanks,you're all doing a good job.

Time to celebrate with beer

cheer's Tony

HI mate
sounds good looking forward to it ..WELL DONE

HI AL.

WE DID GET A COUPLE OF GRUB SCREWS FOR THE FLYWHEEL WITH IT. CHECK YOUR OLD BOXS/PACKAGING.

BUNGLE

my waterpump is fitted. all it required was 1.1mm taking off the mounting flange. engine turns over by hand very well. Just need to sort out the reverser and reach rod, then its air test time

forge wrote:my waterpump is fitted. all it required was 1.1mm taking off the mounting flange. engine turns over by hand very well. Just need to sort out the reverser and reach rod, then its air test time

Hi good luck on the test will up post?

Hi all

I couldn't stop myself and ended up buying a compressor during the week,and have been running the engine on air quite a bit.

Just a word of warning,I have found a fair bit of work to do now.The 2 valve eccentrics have worked loose and wobble a little on the crank,water pump 1 is still tight,but I will still check it.Both the main bearings now need adjusting,backward and foward adjustment,and all my glands on the cylinder block will need a bit more packing.

One thing I have found whilst running on air is the amount of water collecting in the valve chest,so give this a good clean out afterwards.Julia also mentioned this problem when she first ran her 4" on air.

Apart from that no problems,engine seems to run smoother,and I can now run the engine on 25/30 psi,although I do seem to be using a fair amount of oil in the lubricators.Are wicks too big?

All for now

Tony

HI GUYS, JUST GOT AROUND TO BUILDING UP OUR CLACK VALVES THIS AFTERNOON. WHEN WE TOOK THE BODIES OUT OF THE BAG, ONE HAS WHITE WAXY LOOKING STUFF IN THE 'TURN' VALVE CHAMBER, THE OTHER DIDN'T, I GUESS ITS LEFT OVER FROM THE LOST WAX CASTING PROCESS. THE VALVE DOESN'T FIT IN THERE ANYWAY, AND IT HAS BLOCKED THE HOLES, THINK IT WILL COME OUT OK WHEN NEED TO. SO STARTED PUTTING THE OTHER ONE TOGETHER (WITHOUT THE WAX), ALL GOOD BUT WE NOTICED THAT THE 'TURN' PART IS FAIRLY LOOSE IN THE BORE (TOP AND BOTTOM MOVEMENT SORTED BY THE GRAPITE STRING), BUT I CAN SEE THAT WATER WOULD BYPASS THE VALVE - SLOWER OF COURSE- WHEN IT IS SHUT. IS THIS RIGHT STEVE ???

WHAT HAVE THE OTHER BUILDERS FOUND ON THIS PLEASE ??

BUNGLE

Bungle,the white stuff you refer to is a seal of some sorts to keep things steam tight I think.
I left it in myself,just cutting it down enough for the thread to be exposed and cleared the holes running through the clack valve body.
I've used graphite yarn when screwing the check valve cock nut (BU22110) into place

Hope this helps,perhaps Steve will clear this up for us.

cheer's Tony

THANKS TONY, MAKES SENCE, BUT WHY DOES ONLY ONE OF MINE HAVE IT IN ??????????
IT DOESN'T MENTION IT EITHER WAY IN THE INSTRUCTIONS !!

STEVE HELP !!!!

BUNGLE

hi all, i now have the tender on and have fitted the reverser and gear guard. Spent an hour today setting the slide valve timing and had to file down the brass valve holder to stop the lock nut hitting the rear of the steam chest.
Tony, what size of compressor did you buy? i now need to get one so i can test on air. My valve excentrics are also loose but the water pump on is fine, any ideas why this is the case as they were all fitted in the same way.

Hi Forge,being tight with cash at the moment I only spent £100 on a small compressor at my local Halfords.It a SIP Airmate TN 1.5/6.0.
The 1.5 refers to the size of the motor and 6.0 refers to the size of the receiver (6 litres).
It runs nicely pumping out a steady 50psi and the engine runs OK on this,there is one problem though,I need to put a water trap on it.
Like I've said,it's only a cheapy,but it does the job for me as I dont have much space at home,and nieghbour's who like to complain even if you fart too loud.

cheer's Tony