First kit started

Hi guys sorted my on my front wheels today can't load any pics as it won't let me
I do have a question before I Seal it all in place
Will the paint cover all the marks on the spokes from the laser cutting or does it need to be smooth?

It is best using a flap wheel or flap disc and smoothing out. The better the foundation the better the finish. Also as per the instructions. Round the edges off the spokes as pain will "shrink" away from sharp edges and will not cover well.

Thanks
I'll smooth it out tomorrow. I've rounded the edges, and sanded it all.

Ideally you need to get the mill scale off as well. What you can do though is get it sand blasted after assembly (making sure to cover the bearings. This gives a great base to paint on and reduces the boredom of sanding all the spokes.

Best wishes
Simon

Cool thanks Simon

if your posting an image use ONLY the photobucket image code. just paste it straight in.

ignore the "host image" button above the text box when posting. you don't need it and sometimes it don't work   

hi i found the best way to get mill scale off is b&q cementone brick & patio cleaner put is large deep try all bucket put your part in for 10 to 20 minute if any still on use green scratchy dip againe then rinse off with water but must dry realy good then sand for paint you will save a lot time and mony from grinding disc mill scale is hard and when useing cleaner were glove i was allowed to put mine on the radiator to dry you only need i gallon about £10 to do rear will a soak rag and put on the rim a let soak 1/4 at a time    
richard

Hey guys
Has anyone else had issues with vulcanised tyres? Had to send one back as the rubber was right to the edge, the next one was better but not even both sides?

Bryan,

Mine too vary a bit, but not enough to worry me. The rubber sits within the iron hoop all the way round both sides, and as mine will be black (when i eventually get around to paint them) it won't notice. I did spend time trueing all my spokes to get them all absolutely level before mounting to the rim (which again, I only have bolted in place).

Mark.

A 60dia 80 grit flap wheel mounted in the bench or hand drill will clean up the spokes well enough to get a good key for painting, there's no need to go for bright metal all over, but it's down to individual choice.
I opened up the holes for the rivet bolts as they for far too tight a fit, size and size is ample.

For the fillet in the corner of the T rings I used Evo-Stik Grip Fill which is a mastic type sealer / adhesive, it's relatively thick and dries flexible, use the tool with the kit to shape it then trim off the excess once its dried with a sharp paint scraper.

You can go with the crowd and use JB Weld epoxy, personally I went for Araldite Ultra Strong, standard 2k size, one pack has done both front wheels and a rear with plenty left for the remaining rear wheel.

Craft-master paints cover very well - I'm brush painting and found it best to lay the wheels down to dry as the inevitable runs won't be as obvious down the spokes, so far the fronts have had 2 coats of primer, 2 undercoat and 2 gloss - with a 3rd to follow before lining out.

It's each to their own when painting their engines but I'm basing mine on one which spent most of it's life in Scotland hauling large boilers, marine engines and railway locomotives, and would not have had a con-cours finish. Once finished it will be subjected to oil, soot, ash, mud, dust and rain.

Enjoy your build.

Chris.

Thanks guys I've got a air belt sander which does the spokes well and quick!

Capricorn1 wrote:It's each to their own when painting their engines but I'm basing mine on one which spent most of it's life in Scotland hauling large boilers, marine engines and railway locomotives, and would not have had a con-cours finish. Once finished it will be subjected to oil, soot, ash, mud, dust and rain.

Chris

It wouldn't be Clyde by chance??

You will have to compete with Blackbeard for the filthy (working patina) title!!!

Brian

My workshop!

I think you may need to move some of them boxes   . Are brings me back to when i started just over 2 1/2 years ago enjoy. ps keep the pictures coming.

Yeah due to the flood but should be in storage soon.
Will do get the next kit in March can't wait

Hi guys
Could someone let me know how hot the smoke box gets? Thinking of getting it powder coated
Cheers

Working hard. Very hot. Well over 400 as my name plates have changed from red paint to black paint and it is 350 calliper paint.

Yep I'd agree, don't use powder coating on smoke box!

regards,
Tony

Forgot to say

I use B&Q Plastikot Stove satin black and it is still very much intact.

bjwlancashire wrote:

Capricorn1 wrote:It's each to their own when painting their engines but I'm basing mine on one which spent most of it's life in Scotland hauling large boilers, marine engines and railway locomotives, and would not have had a con-cours finish. Once finished it will be subjected to oil, soot, ash, mud, dust and rain.

Chris

It wouldn't be Clyde by chance??

You will have to compete with Blackbeard for the filthy (working patina) title!!!

Brian

No it's not Clyde Brian, but Charlie as there was a Burrell Road Loco that carried this name and it's also the name of a very loyal dog who I sadly lost last year, so the name will have a duel meaning.

30 years ago I owned an Aveling Barford single cylinder roller which was pretty gruby after 40 miles on the road, but I usually gave her a wipe down when we stopped for snap (lunch for those outside Yorkshire) or while filling up from a hydrant.
High temperature paint ???... I used plain black gloss on the chimney and smoke box - which was cast on "Kimbell", and once it began to flake due to the heat I did what many old enginemen did and use cylinder oil with a little soot in it. It used to smoke a bit at the first hill but generally lasted a fair while and looked quite tidy.

Happy days.

Ok thanks guys