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Tone's Showmans second lot!

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Post  lynnr on Wed 12 Sep 2012, 9:34 pm

Oh dear. Not good.
lynnr
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Tone's Showmans second lot! - Page 11 Empty Stick with Craftmaster paints

Post  Steve Traill on Wed 12 Sep 2012, 10:04 pm

I got so fed up with paints reacting for no apparent reason that I now use only craftmaster paints for undercoat, enamel, lining & clear lacquer. They are all happy with each other and the only slight problem I had was when I applied three coats of enamel too quickly and the top coat dried before the others had & I ended up with some localised wrinkling which when properly dried, flattened out but still needed to be wetndried & recoated. I degrease everything with gunwash (cheap celulose thinners for cleaning spray guns) and tack rag (Craftmasters) it down. I've said it before, their paint is excellent and the enamel gives a really hard finish.
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Post  Robfishman on Wed 12 Sep 2012, 10:57 pm

Also been there and it's not a good feeling but it's the only way forward, in my case it always seems to be with the top coats as well. Let's hope it's 3rd time lucky.
Robfishman
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Post  lynnr on Fri 14 Sep 2012, 8:19 am

(Duck and Run) No paint problems for me Very Happy
lynnr
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Post  Tony King on Mon 17 Sep 2012, 5:17 pm

Hi All,
Have managed to get back to a good top coat at last on the fly wheel, so I'll let that harden off abit, then have a go at doing some lines on it!!

I tried running the engine on compressed air with the fly wheel on & I think I may have a problem, in so much that only my low pressure cylinder is doing any work. ie, I can only get the engine to run if I hold the starting button in. I have checked valve timing & tried to get the high pressure side to do some work by removing the low pressure valve chest cover & opening the regulator fully. My thinking being that the high pressure piston should do some work & exhaust into the low pressure valve chest. The pressure is deffinately getting into the high pressure valve chest, but is it going into the cylinder? & if it is, then why isn't it appearing in the low pressure valve chest?
Any ideas, anyone? Am I missing something obvious!!
Regards,
Tony

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Post  lynnr on Mon 17 Sep 2012, 5:37 pm

Hi Tony

Not sure that you have a problem as my engine will not run on air either. But as demonstrated she runs will in steam. Air does function completely different to compressed cold air. On the compressor she will not get over 50psi and will not run but runs sweetly at 20psi steam.

A suggestion would be to check the valve is sitting against the block and not being held off by the rod and bolt.
Also check you have the eccentrics correctly installed and you are not trying to run one bore forward and the other in reverse.
lynnr
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Post  highpressure on Mon 17 Sep 2012, 7:55 pm

I agree with Lynn in that air and steam are totally different to run with, for a start the lube oil wont vaporise in the inlet to the HP side as it needs a jet of steam to do so. I agree with you that you should be able to hear something coming through the exhaust cross over though, this last weekend I had to time the engine in steam with about 150 on the clock and when doing the LP side the engine trys to run as the HP side has the regulator feeding it and I could hear gurgling and so on from the cross over port but thats also due to condesation in there. Also the air wont have the heating and expansive effect of steam to help seal all the leaks etc. My whistle valve still leaks when first lighting up but once hot it almost seals completly now.

Also dont forget that the compounding effect will only really work at pressure above 120 or more. When mine gets to that it is noticably more impressive on the power and ability to pull itself and passengers about.

You might just have to get brave and light a fire in it!!!! Go On you know you want to!!!!!! cheers cheers
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Post  Tony King on Mon 17 Sep 2012, 9:05 pm

Thanks Lynn & Kev, I appreciate your answers, I guess you could be right, however with 50psi going into the HP cylinder & me turning the fly wheel by hand, I would expect a little bit of a "kick" from the HP piston, bearing in mind I have the LP cover off!!
I do take your point about air having vastly different "expansive " qualities to that of steam (Apparently steam is the most expansive of all known gases!!) so, as Kev says, I'll just have to light a fire in "her" to see!!
Many thanks,
Tony

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Post  lynnr on Mon 17 Sep 2012, 10:00 pm

Hi Tony

I also just took the brave pill and light her up. I got some very perculiar responses the first time as pressure was rising. She would not run unless I cranked the shaft round. Then she would run for a few seconds then stop. Once I passed 150psi (the first time) she then sorted herself out and ran very well. Think she had a caugh and a spit.

Now when I start up she runs from 20psi all the way up to 180psi smoothly.

I got given a suggestion from a man way south. Doug Fleet. Light up and run on wood until past 20psi before going over to coal. Stops the tubes gunging up with tar and you get no condensation up front from the fire. Crystal is fired this way and the cleaning is just a bit of soot in the tubes. No clinging clumps or anything now. Yesterday Crystal went from cold tap water to running at 30psi in 45 minutes without any blower and just a lashed up chimney extension.

lynnr
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Post  highpressure on Mon 17 Sep 2012, 10:21 pm

I believe 1 cm3 of water expands to 1 m3 of steam, thats 1,000,000 times expansion!!! Shocked
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Post  chop on Mon 17 Sep 2012, 10:33 pm

Tony have you removed hp valve chest and made sure if air is coming through the regulator into hp valve chest ?. If this is happening put the hp cover back on then remove lp cover with air conected and regulator open turn engine over slowly and you should get air escaping into lp valve chest if not would suspect a blockage in the transfer port. Only way i can think to investigate this is to remove both valves and look try blowing air into exhaust port on the hp (centre port) through to lp side. When i ran mine on air i had it running on 15psi as this is all my compressor would make with the engine running but also had it regulated to that at the time had no lubricator. Hope this helps
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Post  chop on Mon 17 Sep 2012, 10:37 pm

Just looked back at your pics do you still have the governer fitted if so it may not be letting the air through ?. Just a though as i have no fitted mine.
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Post  highpressure on Tue 18 Sep 2012, 9:50 pm

Hi Chop,

Hows yours running, have you tried it since the flywheel arrived??

Kev.
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Post  chop on Wed 19 Sep 2012, 7:28 am

Not yet kev been bust doing other things . going back to work today been layed up with flu since old warden.
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Tone's Showmans second lot! - Page 11 Empty Flywheel paint!

Post  Tony King on Thu 04 Oct 2012, 9:33 am

Hi All,
Well, finally, after much "adoo", I have a flywheel in it's finished colours at last!! I gotta say it's not quite as "perfect" as I'd like it to be, the lines are not 100% & varnish, (now hardening off on the Rayburn!!) still has "fish eyes" in the surface, but to be hounest after the trouble I've had painting this particular item, I'm just going to go with it now!! Pitty, cos it's the most "visible" bit on the engine!!
Following are 4 pics of progress:-

Tone's Showmans second lot! - Page 11 Te114

Tone's Showmans second lot! - Page 11 Te213

Tone's Showmans second lot! - Page 11 Te313

Tone's Showmans second lot! - Page 11 Te412

Next job is to carry out mods on crankshaft hub & gears etc, to get them all sliding nicely!!

Regards,
Tony

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Post  Robfishman on Thu 04 Oct 2012, 8:05 pm

Tony

Looks great, I've not yet started the varnishing, athough recently had some delivered. Did you brush apply, or spray. I'm guessing you sprayed it?

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Post  Tony King on Thu 04 Oct 2012, 9:02 pm

Hi Rob,
The flywheel is the first time I have sprayed the varnish, all the rest I have brushed, & to be honest the finish is probably better when brushed, provided you work really fast. The sprayed finish had a little bit of an orange peel effect, which probably only levelled out because I left it in a cold garage all last night, before "heaving it" onto the Rayburn this morning!!
There is no doubt about it, Craftmaster paint is at its best when brushed, like wot it says on the can!!
The "shine" you can get is "awsome" & has greater "depth" than when sprayed... It might not be quite as "uniform flat" across the whole work piece as when sprayed, but the surface shine is deffinately better & has more charactor!! Well I think so anyway.
Regards,
Tony

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Post  Tony King on Sun 07 Oct 2012, 8:35 am

Hi All,
Three pics of progress, First the flywheel back on the engine:-

Tone's Showmans second lot! - Page 11 Te115


The next two show the gear change mechanism, managed to get it all moving nicely, took apart & painted, put it back on the engine & it's stiff again!! So more fettling rquired, I think I might reduce the diameter of the rod that the selectors run on!! :-

Tone's Showmans second lot! - Page 11 Te214

Tone's Showmans second lot! - Page 11 Te314

Regards,
Tony

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Post  Tim Watson on Sun 07 Oct 2012, 12:11 pm

Tony:
I wouldn't reduce the size of the rod the selectors move on! I effectively did the same with the inner selector. it had been imperfectly drilled and so I eased off the hole - eventually too much, at which point it completely locked up on the rod when trying to slide because it was able to pitch. The replacement was perfect and simpy needed lapping paste. I think it is worthwhile to polish the rod, but like you, when I had painted the bits, they took a while to fiddle back into good order.

I also found that the second gear selector cover needed adapting tight into the slot to avoid the second shaft gears, The only purpose I can see for these covers is to stop muck going into the selector slots from the second shaft gear wheels.

Some pictures below:

Tone's Showmans second lot! - Page 11 Img_0310

Tone's Showmans second lot! - Page 11 Img_0312

Tim
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Post  Richard on Sun 07 Oct 2012, 5:54 pm

looking good i must get on with mine as i have boxes all over the front room
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Post  MrStationHouse on Sun 07 Oct 2012, 6:36 pm

Looks really good, how much brightwork is plated?

Simon

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Post  Tony King on Sun 07 Oct 2012, 7:07 pm

Hi Tim, thanks for feed back re gear shift, I'll take onboard what you have said.
& Simon, non of the bright metal has been plated, simply filed & smoothed off & polished on the buffing wheel. I think it looks more natural than plating, although it'll rust if not protected with film of oil!!!
Regards,
Tony

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Tone's Showmans second lot! - Page 11 Empty Plating or polishing

Post  Tim Watson on Sun 07 Oct 2012, 8:41 pm

I too prefer the finish of bright metal and keep plating for components where I want to hide the colour of silver solder / brazing. It is also useful for the fairlead rolls because these are easily forgotten for oiling and liable to rust on the rally field.

If the steel is brought to a high surface finish, by working through the various grades of abrasive and polish, then there are few surface irregularities /pores to trap water and hence rust. What should be avoided is polishing a rough surface as what will then ensue is simply a component that, in Model Engineer competition judging terms, is highly poished and deeply scratched.

Tim
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Post  MrStationHouse on Sun 07 Oct 2012, 9:54 pm

Thanks chaps, I am inclined to the polished rather than plated too.

Simon

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Post  Tony King on Thu 08 Nov 2012, 11:24 am

Hi All,
I have just received my steam siren from RA Barker, so have just spent a few minuets fitting it!! Lovely little thing it is too Very Happy
Because the forum's fairly quiet at the moment I thought I bung up a few pics:-

Tone's Showmans second lot! - Page 11 Te167

Tone's Showmans second lot! - Page 11 Te263

Tone's Showmans second lot! - Page 11 Te351

Tone's Showmans second lot! - Page 11 Te441

Regards,
Tony

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