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Chassis painting

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Chassis painting Empty Chassis painting

Post  Vapor Fri 13 Nov 2009, 12:11 pm

Hi All, anyone thought of which way they are going to paint their chassis, obviously there are a few options like powder coating, some form of spraying or even hand painting.

I must admit the last option would not appeal to me as I am looking for a high level of finish, but all the above methods seem to have there drawbacks and at this scale painting by aerosol is out of the question, anybody got any thoughts??
Vapor
Vapor

Number of posts : 383
Age : 113
Location : Isle of Wight (2" Burrell & 5" Duchess ex MW)
Registration date : 2008-06-18

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Chassis painting Empty Chassis Painting

Post  wattsg3 Fri 13 Nov 2009, 3:47 pm

Hi

This is always a difficult question. For my 4" Burrell I used a good top fed spray gun, don't ever think of using an air brush for this scale. I used 3 coats of a good quality 2 pack paint (paint and hardener), obtained from the local car paint distributor, mixed very thinly to avoid orange peeling over an aerosol etch primer. It gave a stunning finish. The beauty of this paint is that it gets harder the longer its left. You will not get the same durability from the Phoenix Paint type paint. My Burrell is now 3 years old, has had good use and the paint has not chipped. The only downside is that on the boiler my nice maroon colour has a slight orange tint from the heat of the boiler, but I suppose this is inevitable.

For the Foden SWB Chassis I am beginning to come round to the idea of brush painting if I can get a good 2 pack brushing paint that is going to harden like the spray. I have seen some lovely finishes on locos at my local model engineering club that have been brush painted and they look really good. We have to consider a lot of the chassis is not seen and provided the cab is sprayed properly I don't think it will be an issue. The beauty of a brush painting is that you can lay it on a bit thicker, and to paint a fiished chassis may be easier to handle than trying to suspend it from the ceiling to spray.

My only other issue is that you have a great looking chassis that has a good layer of paint on it that gets spoiled when trying to fit the other bits, but thats a long running tale - when to paint. I also find that when STW machine the bits they fit together nicely until they have a layer of paint underneath which has to be scrapped off later, say to fit the boiler between the frames.

Best regards

Geoff

wattsg3

Number of posts : 3
Registration date : 2008-06-25

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Post  atomenter Sat 14 Nov 2009, 1:12 pm

Hi there
Any thoughts and experience of using Hammerite Smooth, either direct on to the metal or using a red oxide primer. I used it direct years ago on suspension units when I built a kit car and as far as I can remember it gave a reasonable and durable finish.

Regards

Tom
atomenter
atomenter

Number of posts : 178
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Chassis painting Empty Re: Chassis painting

Post  Vapor Mon 16 Nov 2009, 2:41 pm

Hi All,

Well both Geoff & Tom, I fancy having the chassis powder coated but I am worried about chipping, whatever I go for it will have to be sprayed and not hand painted far far to big for that.

Tom I have used Hamerite smooth in the past using the brush method and the finish was fair no better or worse than any other paint, not sure if it can be sprayed though, all the usual outlets dont seem to stock thinners so if it is avaiable I guess it would have come from a specialist supplier.

Ian
Vapor
Vapor

Number of posts : 383
Age : 113
Location : Isle of Wight (2" Burrell & 5" Duchess ex MW)
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Post  Waterways Mon 16 Nov 2009, 4:51 pm

Hi
Halfords stock thinners and my local motorist supplier in bedford it will say brush cleaner/thinners. I use hammerite rust beater with 10% thinners as a undercoat/primer.

Waterways

Number of posts : 106
Location : Bedford (Burrell 4" 2nd batch)
Registration date : 2008-06-26

http://www.waterways-direct.com

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Chassis painting Empty Chassis Painting with Hammerite

Post  atomenter Tue 17 Nov 2009, 1:14 pm

Hi All
I e-mailed Hammerite regarding painting the chassis and I have attached the reply.

Regards

Tom A

Thank you for your email.

Hammerite Metal Paint is suitable for application onto a vehicle chassis and can be applied by brush, roller or spray.

For spray application please find our recommendations below:

Conventional Spray
• Thin Hammerite metal finish with 15% Hammerite Brush Cleaner and Thinners
• Set professional spray gun to between 25/35 psi (approximately 2 Bar).
• Use a full fan spray at maximum spray volume.
• Apply 3-4 thin coats in quick succession allowing approximately 15 minutes between coats. The final coat should be sprayed heavily enough to flow to
a glossy finish avoiding runs and sags.

Airless Spray
• If necessary Thin Hammerite metal finish with 15% Hammerite Brush Cleaner and Thinners
• Fluid pressure: 2500 - 3000 psi (approximately 170 Bar).
• Nozzle size: 375-500 microns/0.015 - 0.020".
• Apply 2-3 coats, leaving each coat for approximately 1 hour or until it is touch dry before applying further coats.

For both conventional spray and airless spray:
• Shake spray gun before and during use to ensure an even colour.
• For best results use only Hammerite Brush Cleaner and Thinners.


I hope this information is useful. If you have any queries or need any further assistance please contact me at the Technical Advice Centre on 0870 444 1111.

Yours sincerely

Nadean John-Baptiste-Bennett
ICI Paints AkzoNobel
Technical Advice Centre,
Wexham Road,
Slough, Berkshire
SL2 5DS
Phone: +44 (0) 870 444 1111 (DIY)
+44 (0) 870 242 1100 (Trade)
Fax: +44 (0) 870 444 0660
atomenter
atomenter

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Post  Vapor Tue 17 Nov 2009, 11:03 pm

Hi Guy's

Thanks for all the replys i'll post on here what I decide to use on my chassis when I get it which I hope will be soon, not sure when STW expect to start cutting and welding I think things are a little busy at present with all the new models starting, and the old ones finishing.
Vapor
Vapor

Number of posts : 383
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Chassis painting Empty Re: Chassis painting

Post  Julia Wed 18 Nov 2009, 7:43 am

The problem with Hamerite is the over painting rules. You have to get the next coat on within a few hours(see can for limit). If you wait too long it will wrinkle. This is because Hameriate uses different chemicals/solvents than other paints. If you are past the time window you have to wait several weeks for the paint to harden completely.

I gave up on this paint as I often found I could not get the next coat on before I was out of time. I had many failures before I realised the reason was I left too long between coats.


Last edited by Julia on Wed 18 Nov 2009, 8:38 am; edited 1 time in total (Reason for editing : Expanded)
Julia
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Post  Vapor Tue 11 May 2010, 10:25 am

Hi All,

Well things are progressing with the build, I am almost up to date with all the kits so far apart from painting, I have decided to have the chassis and some of the other parts powder coated but I think the springs due to the flexing in service may need a less brittle paint so my question is about paint colour.

I assume the standard red paint for the Foden will have an RAL number if so does anybody know if you can buy a good quality hand brushing paint with the same RAL number so that the colours will match irrespective of powder coating or hand painting.

Last does anybody have the RAL colour of the "correct" Foden chassis red??

Ian
Vapor
Vapor

Number of posts : 383
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Post  Vapor Mon 31 May 2010, 11:41 am

Cant belive no one knows the correct colour red to paint the chassis, if there is one that is??
Vapor
Vapor

Number of posts : 383
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Location : Isle of Wight (2" Burrell & 5" Duchess ex MW)
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