New Cylinder Block Transfer Passage STAINLESS steel plate

Hi Forum,

I have the newer cylinder block with the Stainless steel plate which covers the transfer passage of the cylinder block. As you can see from the photos we sealed it with steam seal foliac however this leaked which cal also be seen from the photo. We are looking to use a different sealant which as compatible with stainless steel. Would a graphite gasket work dry? The other sealant options are: Hylomar blue, HELDITE universal jointing compound or High temperature RTV silicone instant gasket. A new plate is coming too. Has anyone got any good ideas? So far i have been recommended different things so haven't been able to come to a conclusion about what to use.

Hi Thunderbolt
Gasket every time and always dry.
Simon C

Hello Thunderbolt,

when I got my cylinder block I removed that plate to be able to clean out any casting sand or dirt still in the block, just in case. I then asked Steve Baldock on what to use as sealant and he suggested loctite 510 as best suitable for that. Cleaned the contact area, applied a bead of 510 and installed the plate.

Just out of curiosity, how did you notice that the plate was leaking?

Cheers

Elwood

Hi Elwood,

I noticed when on my second steaming that the reverser kept going tight when it had sat stationary. So i steamed it up the next day with out the two steam chest covers on and found that the regulator was not leaking and the starting valve was not leaking however water was making its way up from the transfer passage.

Hi Thunderbolt,

I was asking as I also had the fear, that it might be the case with Pied Piper, but I found, that the "stiffness" of reverser seems to come more from the starter valve leaking than from any internal pressure build up. And in the beginning the regulator needed some time to bed in, that also contributet to the issue.

I also noticed thatteh stiffness will not happen when I hit the starter valve body with a wrench (slighly of course) to help get the valve to seat correctly. That is on my agenda for the winter to take a closer look at that.

How much trouble it was to remove the cylinder block, not that I plan to do so, mind you, only if....  

Cheers

Elwood

I would use hylosil 310 RTV

We use it on gas turbine casings at much higher pressure and temperature. A small tube will easily do you.

It can be used with stainless or steels

https://www.silmid.com/sealants/silicone-sealants/Hylomar-Hylosil-310-Red-High-Temperature-Silicone-Sealant-in-various-sizes/

Hi,

Thank you for all the recommendations. The cylinder block wasn't too hard to remove although it does depend on how short you have cut the studs. The front top three studs below the blast pipe had to be punched so the nut gripped the stud. The options for those three could be to weld or silver solder the nut onto the stud once removed.

Out of interest what have people sealed their water tanks with?

I will get back to everyone on the sealant used and wether it worked when the cylinder block is re fitted and engine back into steam.

Many thanks