burner fit

i have just spent the afternoon building kit 20 burner  
i bolted the mounting plate onto the burner housing using the half nuts and washers  
i offered up the burner upside down as the instructions
2 studs were cut down as they were in the way   left hand ones looking from the rear
the burner was bolted on using one fixing at the bottom into the captive nut into the casting
the casing went on and is now upside down
having just read a couple of blogs they have cut castings and only turned the burner 90 degrees
my instructions dont say any of that  
any
body any ideas    the kit fitted really easy  if my instructions are correct      thanks tony  ps i see the kit has new boiler stays in another strip down

could not get hold of wil at stw yesterday i got an e mail from a fellow builder and the burner is only turned 90 degrees
cut a piece out of the mounting plate for the strap and simply mount the burner 90 degrees not upside down as the instructions say
regards tony

Hi,

There's a couple of things to note concerning the burner, but it all works out ... eventually.
1. The long and detailed instructions that come from Riello with the burner includes some diagrams about fitting. You may notice that the 'upside down' option has been red-crossed out on the relevant page, by Riello. I'm guessing STW were either informed of this or noticed it in the instructions, and discovered that a 90 degrees twist off the burner would work just fine, with a few adjustments.
2. It looks like you may have missed out on some further instructions about the issue above, but maybe check the paperwork again. There were some supplementary instructions, together with a picture of the space cut out from the alloy manifold that goes between the burner and the burner box, to accommodate the fitting of the bolt to hold that manifold in place. And yes, you do have to hack-off the bolt ends to accommodate the burner -- confirmed that with STW already.
3. You will also need a hex bolt to poke through from the inside of that manifold -- there is a convenient hex-shaped well for it to sit in on the back of the manifold -- so that you have a bolt onto which to fix the burner. It looked a bit dodgy to me just having one bolt, but Will reckoned the Lyka 1 series had just one bolt and it was fine, all the way from John O'Groats to Land's End, which is rather convincing. Besides, with that bolt securely in place, the burner does seem to be solidly locked onto the relevant manifold. STW did send me a bolt when requested, but it was far too short, so. a misunderstanding somewhere, but no big deal: I used a standard hex bolt, cut to size.
4. If you have missed out as in 2 above, you may be delighted to learn that a replacement rear panel will be sent, since the original was designed to fit the burner in its upside down position.

And while writing, if you have not yet constructed the oil pumps, well, it could just be me, but they do require exquisite attention to detail. For example, be aware that the innocent-looking tiny bearings, which they call clutches (cos they are, I guess) have even tinier arrows on one face, to denote the direction of travel. Those faces, with the arrows on them, need to face outwards from the spaces into which they are to be pressed.
Secondly, the tiny rams -- the parts that look like a mushroom, are poorly machined (or at least, mine were) and may need rubbing down with 400 grit emery cloth in order to fit well.
Thirdly, there is a choice of two spacers, one apparently 20 thou and the other 30 thou. I have fitted the smaller one and Will has not so far said that that is wrong (the bigger one allows greater oil flow, for engines larger than our Lykas). If it turns out we need the larger spacer, then one will need to look again at the oil pump instructions and file-off a certain amount of another pump component, or again, the pump will just block and not function.
Finally, the hinged lids on my pumps do not fit properly: they are about 2mm open, despite earnest gently filing, because the angle of the brass fitting attaching to the actual lid is poor: actually out by some 5-8 degrees, at a guess.

If you're interested in the painting the woodwork, the products from Craftmaster Paints seem to my very amateur eye to be extremely good, and the company has been very helpful to me. (Craftmaster actually own an original Locomobile, apparently). Either the paint, or the Purdy brushes they recommend, made a dreaded job quite fun (see Amazon for the brushes -- set of three not too madly expensive). And if you are painting, be aware that STW will send some more finishing strips for the side panels -- presumably similar to those supplied for the front panel -- in a later kit.

Another factoid: the 'empty' hole on the back of the right hand side water pump -- the smaller hole (1/8 inch in fact) will apparently have a stopper
supplied in a subsequent kit. The (only) connector with a 1/8 inch thread therefore goes on the left hand pump [looking from the rear of the car towards the front], with the extra-long connector in the hole below it. Discovering this was a relief, because there is virtually no space between the burner box and the back of the right-hand water pump for anything other than a stopper. Moreover, all the pipes reach the right connectors happily with that configuration, so far at least (steam pipes still to come).

Hope that helps a bit. Lucky there's plenty of this building to do during the lockdown, huh?

Nick