Missing from home

I managed to put her bum on last night using lots of swear words on the way and as little brute force as required to get the job done without scratching the paint, not easy but very rewarding. Good luck to those in roller world who haven't done this yet.
It may help to note that the M3 hex bolt in the very front of the left hand tender beading will need to be swapped to a countersunk one. I had one leftover from some wear. (one for the snagging list Ian)

First job of the morning get her of the blocks and back on her wheels, with the crane now feeling the strain a little down she came no drama.
and the result:-
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Now for the mixed emotions part, towing hitch height, just to check the theory can the bowser be setup to tow nicely behind both a roller and a showman's
Lynn said she has put 15MM on the high to get it level for Crystal but if that is the way that I go then it would be even worse than it is behind the my roller, Hmmmm! see the dilemma.
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One coffee later and some head scratching and I think I shall go with Lynn on this one 15MM it is, and come up with an alternative for carrying the extra water.

Hi

Remember to use the spring supplied under the tow bar. It holds the tow hitch up under the top of the tender hitch. This will correct a lot of the nose down attitude.

Also add 8 Gallon of water and a season on the springs she will sag a bit.

Well I came up with this ugly but functional answer to the Showman/Roller tow hitch height difference.
this way up for the Showman.
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and this way up for the Roller.
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The 2 bolts holding the bracket in place are drilled and an R clip put through to secure them so the change over takes seconds to do
There is no allowance for using the supplied spring as if I am not using the seat then I think it will not be required but only time will tell.
The big hole in the drop plates is just to take a little weight out of the bracket and the height change is 75mm overall.

Well I thought that it was time to get rolling again, I haven't touched the roller since last November so had amassed 5 or 6 kits to go at.
Warmer weather and the clock change along with the completion of my aggy trailer and the enthusiasm was back.
The first job on the to-do list was the hub caps for the rear wheels, been putting this one off for nearly a year.
So it was from this:-
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A little rubbing down some elbow grease and an hour later and I think they look a little better even if not rely in keeping with the industrial nature of rollers.
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Rear end plumbing next not a big job but easier now with the crank out of the way.
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Fire box doors next what a work of art these are, found myself opening and closing them several time just to see them working WOW!
bottom slide-way.
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The Doors.
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and finally the mechanism. All fire door parts have been black nickel plated to prevent them from rusting and potentially jamming up. I purchased the nickel plating kit from a local supplier they also do chrome, brass, copper, zinc even silver and gold now that would be a boast on the rally field.
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The next job crank shaft bearings, here comes that feeling of dread again as it took 3 days to get the Showman crank to run nicely.
I am going to stop over thinking this job now, as once I had persuaded the bearings to go into the housings (over zealous painting to blame for that hour of work) a gentle bedding in on the radius at the gear change end and it was job dun.
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I had read a post some place? that said what a pain putting the tin wear on the cylinder block was, and that the making of new beading was required, after several attempts to fit the supplied beading had failed.
So with dread as my mindset it was back to it, and don't you just know it, it jumped on with absolute ease. I must have got the mid week tins and the other guy got the Friday ones.
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Well on with the work, test fit the other 5 tins next, minor adjustments but no real drama with this part.
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A final photo call before powdering.
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and after around 90 minutes they came out looking like this.
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at this point in the day I had got as much powder on me as on the tins so  I resembled a Smurf, this caused great amusement to those who witnessed the event.
while the tins were in the oven I put the insulation on the boiler, again cut to the pen lines drawn on it and it only required minimal tweaking to make it fit.
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while the tins were cooling I put this together.
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Ok I think the tins are cool enough to handle now so on we go with the build.
The block cover after a few lines it looked like this and again it went back on a treat...Good one STW.
I did put some of the leftover cork matt behind this to help shield the cover paintwork from the heat of the block
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And the rest of the tins, must remember to take the bungee cord off next time.
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Needed these fitted to put the lines on, this way the lines are evenly spaced with the boiler bands.

don't forget the motion guards. Left
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And right.
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The seat was test fitted next and found seriously in need of a modification.
It was so far away from the regulator that I needed binoculars and so high above the coal bunker that I would not have been able to reach the lumps on the top let alone the ones lower down and the foot rests hummm. I think designed by a six footer for a six footer.
well I did not get far with that mod as the welder was buried and too much trouble to dig it out but all the parts are cut and test fitted. the rest is for later.
just these bits left the reversing lever and regulator still warm from the electroplating tank, more of that black nickle stuff.
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Well that is almost the end of my amassed kits only got the lubricator to fit and the governor cover plate as yet undecided weather to nickle plate or just paint this one, could come down to a coin toss to decide.

Well gave the slide bars a check today expecting a bit of a job with them based on past experience and the fact that the weighshaft bracket sits on such a thick gasket.
The upper bar required 3 though at the block with the lower one taking 15 though at the weighshaft bracket.
Nice shiny brass shims for both and its good to go.
I still think its an incredible feet of engineering to achieve accuracy like that on something that gets bolted together in an average garage.
Sorry no pictures, forgot that bit, I did put a picture above that showed the bars fitted earlier in the build so that one will have to do.

Kit 18 arrived Thursday lunchtime, gear guard and brake drum, so had a good session today.
The keys for the Brake and final drive only required minimal adjustment to make them fit length ways, however they seem a little on the thin side as a good gap can be seen between the top of the key and the brake drum key-way. probably make new ones later at final fit.
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The longer drive pin that fits the brake side also seems short, will get in touch with STW Monday regarding that one.
Then it was on to this bit seen ready for the oven after a quick test fit.

After its visit to the oven it came out like this.
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So then on with some lines.
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After re-attaching the braketry to the guard its on to the machine for a photo call.
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I did try the right hand wheel on just after this and it sure comes close to the guard at the top. hope no builder has a wobbly wheel on this side.
well that kit didn't take long! so just looking forward to the next one.

Simon C wrote:
A little rubbing down some elbow grease and an hour later and I think they look a little better even if not rely in keeping with the industrial nature of rollers.

Pray tell. What did you use to get them that nice n shiny?

Hi John
I used 180 followed by 240 grit abrasive in a sander and then polished on my buffing wheel.
I also have a showman’s engine so the buffing wheel is an essential part of the kit if you don’t like polishing.
The caps in the photo are black nickel plated hence the darker look that they have.
https://www.metalpolishingsupplies.co.uk
This might help in your quest for the ultimate look.

Hi all
Had I thought that as the rollers are getting close to being finished I hadn’t actually got around to posting any pictures of my brothers roller that I’ve been helping him build. Not all the lining is complete yet but is staring to look the part.

Hi Ethan
New toy is looking good.
If the kits keep arriving in good time we stand to get the last one for Xmas this year so the first rolling job will be the snow in the new year.
Keep up the good work.
Simon C

First time our roller has left the garage to go to chickerell steam show. A lot of attention given to the engine and being the only miniature roller out of about 40 miniatures. Looking forward to taking it to great Dorset.

Ethancasey89 wrote:First time our roller has left the garage to go to chickerell steam show. A lot of attention given to the engine and being the only miniature roller out of about 40 miniatures. Looking forward to taking it to great Dorset.

Hi Ethan

The Engine looks fantastic, looking forward to seeing the engine at Dorset, it will be nice to see a painted example, as although our control model is coming along nicely, we wait until the end of the batch to paint them.

Thanks

Will@STW

The roller build has continued at a snails pace lately as both work and a stroppy showman's to finish have got in the way.
The showman's dynamos are now both painted lined and fitted to the engine and work fantastically well a big thanks to STW for an enjoyable build, I might get to a rally with it next year sometime.
OK back to the roller, after making a new key for the brake hub, as I just wasn't happy with the gap between the hub and the key a final test fit and its looking all good.

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Well then came the flywheel after a light sandblasting, no mean feat holding this great lump with one hand whilst blasting away with the other hand

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The red nose is a wooden cone used to stop the powder coating from getting into the bore and key-way area.
Not easy to see but the outer rim has a Jubilee band around the circumference holding the suspension hook under it and then masked out with ordinary blue masking tape.
Ordinary masking tape will stand powder coating temperatures but you need to remove it before the work cools too much or it can be a real sod of a job.
It took a longer session in the oven heating due to the mass to be heated and a real long time to cool so that I could handle it afterwords
However the result was worth the 2 cups of coffee I drank to pass the time.



A few red lines to finish and it was dun and dusted for another part.



Next it was on to the con-rod, a little feta-ling to remove burrs from the big end and a good fit was achieved as usual.
Note the pop marks on the shells and strap this is so the parts always go together in the same orientation when dis-assembly becomes necessary later.



A little time lapping in the shells and the fit was perfect, the main part to be worked was the small radius on the outer edge of the shell but once that was the correct shape the rest went very quickly.



A test fit later found that the taper pin that adjusts the bearing half fit was all the way in, so a 15 thou shim was added between the rear shell and the strap, this effectively moves the shells forwards and the taper pin was then an acceptable distance out of the strap as can be seen.





The steam head was next, had to use the countersunk screws for this as the gap between the boiler and rear spectacle plate was insufficient for the hex head bolts.
Space is tight across the engine for the steam head and its associated pipework but it does fit just.



The pipe nut on the left of the steam head (injector steam supply) is under the front of the water pump so must be tightened before the pump is fitted.
All the other pipework is a real piece of art and needs to be put in and tightened in the correct order or getting the spanners to it become impossible, especially when not wanting to scratch the paint.
Fitting of the water pump is also a real teaser just getting the bottom front mounting bolt nut onto the bolt is a real trick and then you have to tighten it.
I think I took 5 minutes to fit the pump and 45 minutes to put the pesky bottom nut on and tighten it.



The finishing touch for this instalment was the 2 clack valves and associated pipework, at last an easy bit to finish on.
I haven't found a place for the pipe clamp BU42103 or any reference to it in the text so if somebody has an idea for it its an ornament on the mantle piece.
The missing part SP59027 3/8 pipe connector for connecting the by-pass pipe BR42161 to the water pump is in the post Will assures me.



Happy building fellow roller owners.

Hi Simon

That looks absolutely fantastic, can't wait to see the engine all together and running, will look absolutely stunning when it's finished. The joiner left here yesterday evening I believe, so you will get it within the next couple of days. If any one else on here needs the joiner SP59027 please let me know. If I don't know by the end of today I will have to send it after Dorset as I will be heading down to the show on the Monday.

Thanks

Will@STW

Thanks Will
Missing part arrived today and was fitted not long after.
Another demonstration of just how on the ball STW is!

and the proof


I also fitted the flywheel back on the crankshaft and it certainly is a close fit to the water pump outlet pipe elbow



Nice bit of measuring chaps.

That’s it for us the end of the rally season finishing it off with GDSF. The only roller to be there this year. Definitely one of the most talked about miniatures there even the other engine owners were excited to see it. Nice to see her shinning in the sun will be next out when it’s time for steaming hopefully near Christmas. As much fun as it is building it can’t wait to be steaming it round the runway next year.

Ethancasey89 wrote:That’s it for us the end of the rally season finishing it off with GDSF. The only roller to be there this year. Definitely one of the most talked about miniatures there even the other engine owners were excited to see it. Nice to see her shinning in the sun will be next out when it’s time for steaming hopefully near Christmas. As much fun as it is building it can’t wait to be steaming it round the runway next year.

Was Fantastic to see your engine out and about, after looking at the unpainted control model for months, it was good to see a painted one out and about. Hope to see at Dorset with it in steam next year.









Thanks

Will@STW

Hi Fans
It was a week of mixed emotions last week I got the call to say that kit 17 was available, not one to miss out on a visit to the works I jumped in the car and went along crank shaft in hand.
I had not checked to see what the contents of kit 17 were going to be, imagine the emotion it caused when I found out that it was the gears, finishing the drive train would have been one of those big smile days.
Well with only the gears to fit this weekend then gears it is.
The opening lines in the destruction's after the introduction says take apart some of the work already done (remove gear guard) another step backwards.
This was the point when things started to go in the right direction again.
After solving a small problem with the screws that hold the second shaft gears together with the use of a thread extender it was plain sailing, up until a trial fit on the engine revealed 2 bolt heads that rubbed on the inside of the first gear.

That is the pesky things at the top of the tow bracket, as can be seen I had to replace them with M6 countersunk setscrews.
Might be worth checking this on the control model Will!!
Then it was on to build the diff, I would have liked the chance to meet the man that invented this miracle of the motor vehicle.

Then its on to the engine for a photo call.

Remember the gear guard that got removed in the beginning? well it dont fit now, be looking in to that join the week if time allows for it.

Simon C wrote:
That is the pesky things at the top of the tow bracket, as can be seen I had to replace them with M6 countersunk setscrews.
Might be worth checking this on the control model Will!!

Hi Simon

We have put the bolts in from the inside of the hornplates not the outside hence why this works on the control model.

Thanks

Will@STW

Will just thinking out loud the horn plates are threaded to bolt from the outside so putting the bolts in from the inside as you mention they would not be holding the tow bracket without a nut and that would have defeated the object I think.
As for the guard I gave that a quick look at and I think longer standoffs or spacer for Same will be the answer.

Simon C wrote:Will just thinking out loud the horn plates are threaded to bolt from the outside so putting the bolts in from the inside as you mention they would not be holding the tow bracket without a nut and that would have defeated the object I think.
As for the guard I gave that a quick look at and I think longer standoffs or spacer for Same will be the answer.

I have double checked on the control model, and we have turned those two bolts around for that reason (with 8 bolts holding the tender in place on opposing side and 5 others holding it in place on that side it is still very much over engineered, and the bolts still offer something for the tender to rest on and keep it from twisting. Unfortunately the CAD model doesn't have any of the bolt heads added onto it, so we can't see on the CAD model where they are going to end up. The way you have done it Simon is the preferable way around the problem, but with Dorset fast approaching at the time, a slightly quicker option was required as this was discovered the week before Dorset, and we still had to rebuild the Lykamobile and parts of the SCC!!!!!

Thanks

Will@STW

Not one to be beaten by the guard issue I have raced home and with the help of some 4.5mm spacers behind each of the 4 bolts holding the guard to the engine it fits and fits well.



The guard no longer catches on the outer gear now and it all turns freely.
As for the clearance between the outside of the guard and the wheel well I think a cigarette paper will fit in the gap.



The Hope now is that the crankshaft is soon to be returned after its holiday at STW.

The crank returned from its holiday at STW Tuesday and was re fitted the same evening, the movement of the gears is no longer restricted by the run-out on the splines so all is now well. "GOOD ONE CHAPS!"
I have found time to look at kit 15 now and found a part missing from the gear guard I think its 42001-3.
Being an impatient sort I have made one today and added threaded holes to make fitting/removing easier for the future.

The 2 holes in the small plate(30MM by 6 MM flat bar) are threaded M6 and the holes in the tender side opened up to 6.5, this allows for this plate to be fixed using M6 by 25 set screws to the inside of the tender and the gears put back in place.
I then slotted the 2 holes in the bottom of the guard, allowing the guard to slide over the 2 set screws.
seen here after paint.

After a few lines have been added.


Its on to the machine for a photo call.

2 M6 dome nuts are used to secure the bottom of the guard as can be seen here

It all lines up perfectly at the moment I just hope that the same can be said when the worm and wheel arrive and get fitted.

I have also fitted the steering chains to the scroll but haven't as yet taken any pictures as they could be laying in the wrong orientation, I will have to see when the worm and pinion arrive.

Ok Christmas out the way and an end of a large project at work and so it was back to the build this week end.

I was still unhappy with the clearance between the right hand wheel and the gear guard and so another strip, think and then re-assemble in a different order the clearance has gone from 2mm to 10mm RESULT!

So on a happy wave I fitted the injector that arrived last week, this just might mean I have taken the rear wheels off for the last time.

My pre Christmas kit was 22A Water Gauge & Whistle, the first line of the destructions said:- In this kit you will be attaching the gear change assembly,water gauge and the Whistle,
Well no gear change assembly in the box (cut and paste error me thinks) and as I am fitting a 4 chime whistle the supplied one can stay in the box.

Ok that just leaves me with the water gauge, lots of fiddly bits but interesting to build this up.

Thats the top and bottom valves in place, the drain valve needs to be put on after the bottom valve is in final position as it makes the assembly too long to screw into the boiler extension pipe.

After fitting the drain valve and making sure that the alignment tool is a sliding fit the glass was cut approximately 10mm longer than the gap between the 2 Glass bushes BU42232 this allows a small amount of flexing/expansion to take place between the top and bottom valves without breaking the glass tube.
I once broke a glass with 100 psi of air in the boiler, it was bloody noisey and I ended up with a face full of glass and dust off of the man stand floor.
I had not put the protector over the glass tube and slipped with a spanner its not recommended.

Once bitten and all that.
So thats job done for now, looking forward to getting the last of the original kits gear change,valve gear and that missing worm and pinion for the steering.
I did say "the last of the original kits" because a roof was in the offering several months ago but not heard any more about that as yet.